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BLOG MY RIDE: Rally MG Maestro 1600 - Car B

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  • #61
    ROUND 3 -17 Jun
    MG Maestro driven by JC & KC.
    -Had some spins due to a rear tyre being low pressure (slow puncture) and then coming off the rim (un-noticed till car spun!).
    –retired on Stage 4 due to cutting out -initially thought to be lack of fuel but would not start at all after it finally cut out on stage.

    Alternator failure suspected. Also noticed that some wheel nuts or studs had stripped.

    Guests:
    -Project Mobility - Allan Jackson, Simmo
    -Go4 Social Action charity –Jamie & Otis
    -Round Table –John Godfrey & David Cammack


    The ARB bush has been welded up and refitted by Webbers. Some of the tyres are looking quite bald (probably from where the lack of ARB on the front has resulted in the inside wheel spinning.

    The alternator has been replaced with one from the Pink Maestro's spares package. The car now starts much more easily and idles better. I suspect that the alternator had been U/S for a long time but it had been masked by the fact that the battery was normally fully charged the day before each event -until the last round, when the problem then came back with a vengeance!

    Comment


    • #62
      ROUND 4 -09 Sep
      MG Maestro driven by JC & KC
      Guests: Jamie, Morris & Otis

      Had a cracked exhaust downpipe (only cracked part of the way round) so bodged it together with a jubilee clip and tried to continue.

      The noise was getting a lot worse (as the crack got bigger) and then a brakeline when I pulled on the handbrake at one point, giving us no brakes.

      We coasted round the remainder of the stage but opted to retire without doing any subsequent stages.

      No work done on the car as yet, but urgently need to charge the battery and put it under cover.

      Comment


      • #63
        My car's retro livery (done earlier this year) is along the right lines, judging by these 2 pics...


        [87 RAC-Trentham Gardens-Car71-Phil Darbyshire & Malcolm Oxborrow in the Droitwich Garage MG Owners Club entered car - finishing 76th Overall]
        Attached Files

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        • #64
          Here's a spreadsheet that the guys did that depicts the results of the Ametech ENGINE RESTORE oil additive (see some posts earlier in this thread).

          The results were -at best -mixed and inconclusive. OK, the way that it was tested wasn't the best orchestrated test (it could have been 'controlled' better), but it's far from clear that the cost of the additive is justified by any improvement in performance from what I've seen so far.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by John C; 10th January 2013, 17:22.

          Comment


          • #65
            Had a great time at this event!:

            2013 Feb 22-24-RACE RETRO show (historic motorsport)-Coventry
            http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=18175


            Manifold is now welded and Sperex painted. Need to refit it (and ensure its brackets are holding it secure to prevent it fracturing again).

            We've got the bust rear offside brake line off -just need to source another Goodridge hose and put it all back together+ put the sumpguard back on.
            Last edited by John C; 15th April 2013, 17:13.

            Comment


            • #66
              There's a very good (and utterly accurate) article on this car by Ralph Colmar on Art Tidesco's website “Gettin’ a li’l psycho on tyres”:
              http://www.psychoontyres.co.uk/secon...-maestro-1600/

              The author's photos appear to be from the Race Retro 2012 show. He has certainly done his homework.
              Last edited by John C; 15th April 2013, 17:14.

              Comment


              • #67
                Classic Car Weekly were very interested in the 2 Maestros on the BMC Marques Motorsport Group stand at the RACE RETRO show, and did a good feature on them in their write up of the show (see article in hyperlink below).

                http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/att...3&d=1372871905

                Comment


                • #68
                  +++++++++++++++++++++++Work done to date+++++++++++++++++++++++
                  -Respray
                  -Replaced length of fuel line
                  -In line disposable filter (from Facet)
                  -fuel tap
                  -switch
                  -fitted 2x carb overhaul kits
                  -we have made a blanking plate for the rocker box where the mechanical pump was mounted.
                  -fitted an electric fuel pump with PTFE tape on unions to stop the leaks
                  Oil has been changed (now got competition stuff in)
                  Engine oil additive has been put in -didn't make much difference (but it's
                  Compression test repeated (the throttle was held wide open)
                  -NSF wheel bearing has a lot of play in it so it will be changed tomorrow hopefully (has got the new wheel bearing ready to fit) -will see if this fixes the play.
                  -A fuel pressure regulator has also a been installed (set to 3psi).
                  -The MG is running again. We completely drained all the fuel, the lines and the carburettors. We found much sediment in the fuel which had blocked the jets. The fuel was contaminated as well. We actually removed the tank to drain it and we power washed it because it was very muddy. We cleaned the carbs with air and in the wash tank. It would be a good idea to source an overhaul kit for the carbs as the gaskets are looking fatigued (there may be slight air leaks). We removed all the plugs and noticed a weak spark on all plugs. The car needs service (oil and filter change) otherwise it seems to run OK now.

                  -The Maestro is awaiting the carb overhaul kits and an inline fuel filter. We tried a purge pump but we could not get the last bit of dirty fuel out of the tank. It would make sense to completely fill the tank to dilute the dirty fuel. All
                  --Test engine (and test drive car round car park). Fuel pump is installed now (got some fuel hose from the stores) but needs fuel to test it (and needs Valvemaster adding to fuel before it competes again).
                  -Fit an Alu sheet over the top of the spare wheel well (to cover up fuel pump).
                  -Put oil down bores and re-check compression (to see it it is the valves that are leaking). An engine's compression is normally about 10:1 so any car ought to give about 150psi (but he has not yet checked in the manual what it should be).
                  -Do a cylinder leak test (I'm told that a cylinder leakage test is a far more accurate way of measuring losses, and will tell you if the problem is 'cyl head gasket' or 'piston' related, or if it's not leaking down that badly after all.
                  -Put an oil flush product in and then change oil to a suitable classic motorsport oil (I will mail order this to CR at CEME)
                  -Need to fit mudflaps (already supplied) on all 4 wheels
                  -Check timing with a light to ensure itís OK for 95 Octane unleaded (or adjust as required for a Maestroís normal diet of 97 Octane 4 Star).
                  -N/S rear cylinder was stuck (now freed off), but could do with a new cylinder in due course.
                  -Rear brake shoe Linings starting to come off on one side; OK for one more event, but need to replace it thereafter (and both sides will be changed to ensure there isnít a braking imbalance).
                  -Needs some Welding around rear arches (fairly minimal though). Itís not on a stress point or the suspension mounting etc. so should be OK for another event.
                  --See if replacement Fuel pump cures the petrol leak
                  -Consider replacing the rubber fuel hose with copper or braided
                  -Add Valvemaster to the fuel currently in the tank
                  -Investigate rough running issue (probably a misfire). Consider replacing HT leads and/or distributor cap/rotor arm. It may be caused/exacerbated by the slack in the timing chain (which may also be a factor in the 'low-compression' problem)
                  -Check timing with a light to ensure itís OK for 95 Octane unleaded (or adjust as required for a Maestroís normal diet of 97 Octane 4 Star).
                  -Set carbs up & balance on Rolling Road
                  -Fit an Alu sheet over the top of the spare wheel well (to cover up fuel pump).
                  -Repeat the compresstion test (this time with the throttle held fully open), and note each cylinder's reading
                  -Put oil down bores and re-check the compression (to see it it is the valves that are leaking). An engine's compression is normally about 10:1 so any car ought to give about 150psi (but Chris has not yet checked in the manual what it should be).
                  -Do a cylinder leak test (I'm told that a cylinder leakage test is a far more accurate way of measuring losses, and will tell you if the problem is 'cyl head gasket' or 'piston' related, or if it's not leaking down that badly after all.
                  -Put an oil flush product in and then change oil to a suitable classic motorsport oil (I have mail ordered this to CR at CEME)
                  -Put the AMETECH 'ENGINE RESTORE' product into the oil (hoping to monitor the effect of this long term e.g. on compression readings in months to come)

                  -Label the fuel pump "on/off"
                  -Raise the rear window (it is 1" open on one side). N.B. The winder appears to be disconnected and the glass won't slide when pushed up.
                  -Investigate the 'pull to the left' under engine braking (if you accelerate hard and then come abruptly off the gas it does it)
                  -N/S rear cylinder was stuck (now freed off), but could do with a new cylinder in due course.
                  -Rear brake shoe Linings starting to come off on one side; OK for one more event, but need to replace it thereafter (and both sides will be changed to ensure there isnít a braking imbalance).
                  -Needs some Welding around rear arches (fairly minimal though). Itís not on a stress point or the suspension mounting etc. so should be OK for another event.
                  -Re-affix the rear spoiler (black rubber) on the boot where it has come adrift on the bottom LHS
                  -Replace the light clusters at the rear (and also at the front)?
                  -Tidy up the loose wiring hanging down beneath the front air dam
                  -See if elec dash can be made to work
                  -The whole back axle has been removed and refitted with new bushes.
                  -All the bushes at the back of the car have been done.
                  -The ARB bush has been welded up and refitted by Webbers. Some of the tyres are looking quite bald (probably from where the lack of ARB on the front has resulted in the inside wheel spinning.
                  -The alternator has been replaced with one from the Pink Maestro's spares package.
                  -Sorting the bonnet catches
                  -Rust treating and then spray painting the exhaust manifold (Sperex VHT red)
                  -Rust treating and then painting (Hammerite black) the battery tray
                  -Put a strip of 'Battery Mat' material under the rear of the battery (to help it stay tight when the clamp is tightened down)
                  -Cleaned most of car interior
                  -Bolted driver's seat back in -Chris had removed it to fit a better one but ran out of time. Unfortunately he didn't put the nuts/bolts back in the car before I collected it, and I couldn't get hold of him to find out where they were so I wasted some time finding more nuts/bolts from my own stores. Bolting the seat back in as a real fiddle, but it should stay tight now with the benefit of thread lock.
                  -Put clear sealant into all holes in floor & doors (to reduce dust ingress)
                  -Fitted boot strip & boot gas struts (done by Class Racing)
                  -I noticed when trying to start the car that after cranking for 10-30 seconds the battery appears to be going flat. However, after waiting a similar period and then cranking again the engine spins over at a normal healthy speed again (this cycle was repeated several times until the engine started OK). The engine starts best with slight throttle as it starts to fire. Chris mentioned that the engine appears to be running very rich (the plugs were wet). It was adjusted up as best it could be on their Krypton (or similar) machine a while ago but Nick adjusted the mixture by hand in January in an effort to get it running better (not sure it was any better though).
                  -Covers for seats
                  -The car was running very, very rich after its carb rebuild but now adjusted on a Krypton tuning station. Couldnít get the exhaust hydrocarbons in range Ėpossibly caused by valve timing being slightly out (due to a very loose/worn/rattly timing chain) at tickover.
                  -Hub & wheel bearing replaced (both on front left wheel).
                  welded up the hairline stress cracks at the inboard base of the rear wheel arches (and painted the repairs black)
                  -Steering rack replaced
                  -Replace bust rear offside brake line
                  -Manifold is now welded, Sperex painted, lagged & refitted
                  -Blow up front O/S tyre
                  -Replace the missing split pin in gear change rod (bodged with a paper clip!)
                  -Drain some oil out (substantially over filled)
                  -Top up with fresh oil
                  -Check under bonnet fluids
                  -Drained oil breather catch tank (full of water)
                  -Fit battery (from the Pink Panther) on a foam mat, with a ratchet strap over the top
                  -Bodge a repair on rear N/S boot spring (with a black cord)
                  -Affix headlamp grilles with clear mastic
                  -Glue interior mirror on
                  -Borrow 3 wheel nuts from Pink Panther
                  -Put cable ties around the exhaust rubbers to beef them up a bit before taking the car off the trailer.
                  -Put black gaffer tape along the sills to help protect them from stones.
                  -Alternator incorrectly wired in (the 'suppression capacitor' terminal had a wire on it -this wire should have been connected adjacent the other 2 wires)
                  -The battery light on the dash comes on as soon as you connect the 12v battery up, even with the ignition key out of the steering column (it never used to do this)
                  -Alternator not charging battery (we had to charge & start it via jump leads from the support vehicle whenever we were back in the paddock, so the Audi spent hours idling all weekend!). I fitted a replacement secondhand alternator of unknown history (but it was initially stiff to turn due to rust!), but the car was still very lazy when cranked (despite a fully charged battery) and did not start.
                  Update from Centre Services: All the Alternators that I supplied were not working correctly so a Ford one was adapted and fitted. Simon found several breaks in the wiring to/from alternator so these are fixed now. The door's ding was pressed out. A recon starter motor was fitted. The engine position/mount (?) was fixed as well


                  ++++++++++++++++++++++++++Rally MG Maestro 1600 - Car B

                  +++++++++++++++++++++++Jobs still to do++++++++++++++++++++

                  +++++++TOP PRIORITY (ESSENTIAL WORK BEFORE NEXT EVENT)
                  -Driver's-side wing mirror loose (mirror flops around freely in its housing)
                  -Kill switch handle inside car needs the cable oiling
                  -2 fan belts broke (probably because Kerry went wide on certain bends to let people past and the mushy soil snapped or popped the belt off) -needs sump guard fitting to protect belt
                  -Oil consumption was very high, although it might have slowed after putting 300ml of this oil in: http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-...oil-stabilizer
                  -spitting from carbs (which probably need 'balancing' as well)
                  -Kerry spotted a spraying leak from the pipe in the rear O/S wheel arch when I was pouring petrol into tank. Possibly petrol coming from a split in a vent pipe?
                  -Get an update from Autoskills on what was done to the car
                  -Put the sumpguard back on.
                  -Ensure exhaust brackets are holding it secure to prevent manifold fracturing again
                  -Anti-roll bar bush (Offside) [possibly already replaced?]
                  -Possible play in wheel bearing
                  -Possible fuel tank weep
                  -Purchase at least 4 more wheel nuts (2 nuts already removed from this car)
                  -Stop battery sliding over to the edge of the battery tray (needs a spacer, ideally). N.B. the foam mat now underneath the battery (and the ratchet strap over the top) may have solved this problem.
                  -Slight weep from nearside carb (above the heat shield)
                  -The OSF bearing had a bit of play in it so this might need changing some time soon.


                  ++++++MEDIUM PRIORITY
                  -Repair slow puncture on front n/s wheel [done by SKIDZ?]
                  -Repair slow puncture on front o/s wheel
                  -tackle corrosion on top of driver's side sill (visible when you open the door)
                  -We spotted that the sump guard is touching the bottom of the exhaust manifold -it just needs some rubber (or preferably 'polybush' as it is less compressible) spacers between the guard and the chassis to make it sit a bit lower (threadlock MUST be used on the guard's bolts!)
                  -The bonnet stay needs re-affixing as it often pops out at the mo (causing the bonnet to womp shut)
                  -Clean off oily dirt on back of engine (to help spotting any fresh leaks)
                  -Check anti-freeze & corrosion inhibitor content of coolant
                  -Straighten out (or replace) the bonnet (it got bent when I was towing it and the bonnet catches had been left out by the garage so the slipstream flipped it up -lucky not to break windscreen)
                  -Clear large mud build up behind the mud flap
                  -Fit an external & internal Ign cut off cable (this may be partly done already)
                  -Mount fire extinguisher in bracket
                  -Put Yellow tape on earth lead
                  -Fit some proper Roll Cage Padding
                  -Camcorder mount needs improving/testing (the roll cage mount let the camera spin sideways and then fall off during a bumpy course)
                  -Several litres of tap water put into cooling system after it boiled the first time (need to check concentration of anti-freeze now)
                  -Need a spacer and bolt to affix the alternator to its sliding adjustment bracket (the car's current one is robbed off the Pink Panther Maestro!)
                  -Clip needed to affix bonnet strut to slam panel
                  -Fire extinguisher bracket needed
                  -Fix n/s rear window (slides down of it's own accord and let's loads of dust in!)
                  -Bonnet stay needs modifying (it's not properly attached at the base so can dislodge and then the bonnet falls shut!)
                  -Boot rattle (it needs a rubber seal and also a stronger spring on one of the sides to hold it shut)
                  -Other rattles: possibly the exhaust manifold knocking on the sump guard?
                  -Battery mounting (despite being very tightly bolted down at the start of the event it had slid within its tray to the nearside of the car -presumably under centrifugal force while turning right)
                  -Brakes are rather wooden and not too powerful. Maybe a strip & clean would help?
                  -Wing Mirrors: too loose to maintain the correct alignment -try affixing with blu tak or tape
                  -Make the Gauges (inc rev counter) work


                  ++++++LOWER PRIORITY
                  -Some decals need replacing
                  -Fit the FIA seat on driver's side?
                  -The driver's side door skin needs 'popping put' again (after some 'rubbin racin' when I was being overtaken!)
                  -Re-affix speaker cover (n/s dashboard)
                  -Tidy up bodywork
                  -Consider replacing seats -or fitting better covers. ebay: CAR SEATCOVER MG ZR ZS ZT MGF MGTF MGBGT ROVER 25 45 75
                  Last edited by John C; 8th June 2015, 14:28.

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Update on the fuel line from Simon at Skidz:

                    The fuel line still needs sorting, we have put a standard one on it for now so it works but for events I guess it will need the line with the metal sheath.

                    The fuel line for the Maestro is 1.7m long, internal diameter is 8mm, external is 14mm including the metal sheath.

                    I would probably get a slightly longer length just in case depending on price, maybe 2m, we can cut it to the right length easily enough.

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Got the car back from Skidz 2 days ago.

                      I tried driving it today just to park it up properly and noticed the following:
                      -The battery light on the dash comes on as soon as you connect the 12v battery up, even with the ignition key out of the steering column (it never used to do this)
                      -it lost all drive and I narrowed it down to the gear selector linkage. Upon closer inspection, it was clear that the rod that connects with the gearbox's lever had dropped out and needs a split pin through it to stop reoccurrences
                      -the oil breather is quite full of oil and needs to be syphoned before the car is driven again

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        I got a call from someone at Skidz today on another matter, but I took the opportunity to get a long-awaited (and much needed) update on what they had done to the car.

                        The summary is as follows:
                        • Broken stud in rear hub replaced (but the hub itself was not replaced)
                        • All 4 spark plugs were replaced with new to cure a rough running problem
                        • The clutch was slipping quite badly so Angus removed the gearbox, cleaned the clutch and refitted it.
                        • Someone lost the split pin from the gear change rod [JC: that explains a lot!]
                        • Rear nearside Brake line was replaced with the item supplied by owner
                        • A length of braided Fuel line was replaced with non-braided pipe
                        • The fuel pump was removed to sort out earthing issues (due to a split in its wiring)

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Work done today:
                          • Blow up front o/s tyre
                          • Replace the missing split pin in gear change rod (bodged with a paper clip!)
                          • Drain some oil out (substantially over filled)
                          • Top up with fresh oil
                          • Check under bonnet fluids
                          • Drained oil breather catch tank (full of water)
                          • Fit battery (from the Pink Panther) on a foam mat, with a ratchet strap over the top
                          • Bodge a repair on rear N/S boot spring (with a black cord)
                          • Affix headlamp grilles with clear mastic
                          • Glue interior mirror on
                          • Check under bonnet fluids
                          • Borrow 3 wheel nuts from Pink Panther

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            The car went v. well on this event:


                            The first time round the course it was so noisy that I couldn't hear the engine revs to know when to change gear (there is no working rev counter)! By later laps the course had become much faster as the stubble was flattened down (and no longer making a row brushing on the underbody). The 'bare earth' line was hard and fast, but soft and mushy offline (loose soil).

                            I put cable ties around the exhaust rubbers to beef them up a bit before taking the car off the trailer. We also put black gaffer tape along the sills to help protect them from stones.

                            Faults noted with car:
                            -Alternator incorrectly wired in (the 'suppression capacitor' terminal had a wire on it -this wire should have been connected adjacent the other 2 wires)
                            -Alternator not charging battery (we had to charge & start it via jump leads from the support vehicle whenever we were back in the paddock, so the Audi spent hours idling all weekend!). I fitted a replacement secondhand alternator of unknown history (but it was initially stiff to turn due to rust!), but the car was still very lazy when cranked (despite a fully charged battery) and did not start. Also, the battery light on the dash still doesn't work as expected.
                            -Driver's-side wing mirror loose (mirror flops around freely in its housing)
                            -Camcorder fell off its mount
                            -Kill switch handle inside car needs the cable oiling
                            -2 fan belts broke (probably because Kerry went wide on certain bends to let people past and the mushy soil snapped or popped the belt off) -needs sump guard fitting to protect belt
                            -Several litres of tap water put into cooling system after it boiled the first time (need to check concentration of anti-freeze now)
                            -Need a spacer and bolt to affix the alternator to its sliding adjustment bracket (the car's current one is robbed off the Pink Panther Maestro!)
                            -Clip needed to affix bonnet strut to slam panel
                            -Fire extinguisher bracket needed
                            -Kerry spotted a spraying leak from the pipe in the rear O/S wheel arch when I was pouring petrol into tank. Possibly petrol coming from a split in a vent pipe?
                            -Some decals need replacing
                            -The driver's side door skin needs 'popping put' again (after some 'rubbin racin' when I was being overtaken!)
                            Last edited by John C; 26th August 2014, 18:22.

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              A 'remanufactured' starter motor has been ordered. This is what the seller firm said it will have had done:

                              a reconditioned unit would hsve had its armature cut down alond with new brushes , solonoid cap , bushes plus any other worn/damaged part.
                              then they bench test the unit.

                              if you can get a new gearbox bush for this unit it will always be a good idea as they are bronze/brass and are prone to wearing.

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                The car is now being run by AUTOSKILLS READING http://gsautoskills.com/

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