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  • Help needed or I give up!

    My wife is due to give birth in 6 weeks time, she was rushed into hospital with severe stomache pains. My car let me down big time, and had to ask my in-laws for a lift. My wife & baby are fine and are resting at home but it has brought up a major problem. Do I fix up my car or get rid?

    Problem 1. Rotor arm is too loose(worn bush?) and can be easily moved by hand. The car wouldn't start and backfired. I randomly moved the arm 1/4cm clockwise and she started fine.

    Problem 2. Brake light and reverse light not working. Checked fuse and bulbs and they are fine. Even plugged my spare rear cluster, and no difference. Tail, fog and indicators are fine.

    Please please help, I need this sorted asap or I'll have to get rid. I need to be able to depend on my car when my wife starts labour, she's due in 5 weeks!!
    It's Maestro Power that got me where I am today!
    Add me on Facebook. Search for: Red Maestro


    Jobs for 2012
    Replace headlining: Done at last!
    Prepare car for Longbridge 2012:Done
    Prepare car for my wedding in August 3rd!!: She looked awesome, can't wait to see the official photos
    Prepare car for St. Asaph car show: In process
    Winter-proof car:

  • #2
    could well be brake light switch for your lights, this is mounted behind the brake pedal and is a bugger to get to. With patience and long nose pliers, screwdrivers and a good torch you should be able to sort it. Have a spare switch ready in case it has gone, but might be either the wiring or the plastic mount has become dislodged.
    Reversing lights can only be the switch into the gearbox, so worth checking the wiring to it.
    I'd ask on here for a spare cam. Temp fix would be some tiger seal which should hold the arm for a while (or any strong hold silicone product will do)

    As for keeping it or not, it does seem as if you have had more than your share from your car. Getting something more modern as in within a few thousand miles will ensure many thousand miles of pretty much trouble free driving, apart from that you'll be buying a car which for all the gauarantees given with a 2nd hand car with fair mileage(ie none!) issues like you have already had could well appear again!

    Comment


    • #3
      Is the brake/reverse light fault just on one side of the car?

      If so, and plugging your spare cluster in hasn't worked (assuming the spare one is ok, free of corrosion etc), I would suggest checking the blades on the multiplug to make sure they are making good contact with the light cluster. They may need cleaning and re-aligning.

      You can also check the circuits with a multimeter while the lamp is unplugged (if you need more advice on this, please ask! )
      1983 (Y) MG 1600
      1985 MG EFi with digital dash (owned since 1987)
      1987 700 City 1.6 Van
      1988 Tandy camper 2.0D
      1990 Advantage, just 29k on the clock
      1990 Clubman D
      1990 MG 2.0i (spares donor)

      (all Maestros)

      Daily drive: Rover 25 GTi

      Weekend rave: Honda Civic Type R GT

      Current projects: Allegro 1.7HLS, Allegro Equipe

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by digital efi View Post
        Is the brake/reverse light fault just on one side of the car?...........
        Hi, both sides are affected and its both the brake lights and the reverse lights. I don't know how to test with a multimeter but I do have one. I've only checked the fuse (because it covers both) and bulbs. I don't think there is a relay for them, and now I've run out of ideas
        It's Maestro Power that got me where I am today!
        Add me on Facebook. Search for: Red Maestro


        Jobs for 2012
        Replace headlining: Done at last!
        Prepare car for Longbridge 2012:Done
        Prepare car for my wedding in August 3rd!!: She looked awesome, can't wait to see the official photos
        Prepare car for St. Asaph car show: In process
        Winter-proof car:

        Comment


        • #5
          I would suggest that you use a meter to work through the circuit to find the problem, a useable cheapy digital one is only a fiver these days. If you look at these four clear videos it should give you a start. Ground is Earth in the UK.

          Voltage Drop Part 1
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Sqk_Gai59I

          It sounds like wear with the dizzy, but I've been a (low tech only) diesel fan for a long time.

          On modern cars - the prices of simpler older cars that are DIYable have gone up over the last six years and it isn't just the scrappage scheme effect. You need more tools and a lot more knowledge for modern cars and there often isn't a cheap solution when something big goes bang, and lots of quite young cars are unviable and are being scrapped. I don't believe a properly maintained older car has to be unreliable. I have a Bosch VE pump Maestro TD and I have only had a handful of significant but not costly problems in 6 years.

          If you are thinking about spending significantly more than Maestro money and have the space, what about buying a second cheap car that you can keep in a ready to go condition, or for your Mrs, in order to be sure to have transport. It is unlikely to have two cars break down at the same time. Apart from buying, a sorned car doesn't need to cost much to keep ready.

          If you do want to give up Maestro-ing and want to major on reliability I'd go for a Bosch VE pump 90s PSA XUD diesel or reasonable mileage low owners 90s petrol Toyota or Nissan from before their quality went down. A petrol mark 1 Yaris is around 1K, 4 star euro ncap and does 50mpg. Owners like the practical but pig ugly Verso version particularly but costs a bit more.

          Comment


          • #6
            Rotor arm is a common problem.

            Glue it back in with silicone sealant (in the correct position of course!). I had to do mine last year too. Its only a rubber bush and there is no force on it so silicone sealant will be fine.

            Is it both stop lights or just on one side? If one side then the switch is ok, it'll be a lamp unit or wiring fault. (as the switch does both sides at once).
            www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
            www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
            www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
              Rotor arm is a common problem.

              Glue it back in with silicone sealant (in the correct position of course!). I had to do mine last year too. Its only a rubber bush and there is no force on it so silicone sealant will be fine.

              Is it both stop lights or just on one side? If one side then the switch is ok, it'll be a lamp unit or wiring fault. (as the switch does both sides at once).
              Thanks E_T_V, is there a step-by-step guide somewhere? I'm not that mechanically minded and never tried this before.

              Both stop light & reverse light are not working
              It's Maestro Power that got me where I am today!
              Add me on Facebook. Search for: Red Maestro


              Jobs for 2012
              Replace headlining: Done at last!
              Prepare car for Longbridge 2012:Done
              Prepare car for my wedding in August 3rd!!: She looked awesome, can't wait to see the official photos
              Prepare car for St. Asaph car show: In process
              Winter-proof car:

              Comment


              • #8
                It wasn't too difficult. Remove the plugs (or just number 1 if you are lazy).

                Insert something suitable down the spark plug hole. (long screwdiver or stick etc).

                Turn the engine by hand until number 1 piston is at the top.

                Remove the distributor cap (if the car is running then check that the rotor arm is pointing at the number 1 cap connector - if not then point it in this direction - N.B. There is a chance to get it 180 degrees out!). If it is 180 degrees out then rotate the engine again till the piston comes up to the top and align it to the number 1 contact position (from memory this is the top most one at about 10 or 11'oclock when viewed from the battery position).

                Apply some silicone sealant (I used instant gasket) to the rotor arm stub to effectively glue it into position. Allow it to set overnight before trying to start the car.

                If the car is running then getting the postion right is easy. If it isn't then you can get it 180 degrees out, as the piston comes to the top twice per cycle. If the car doesn't run then remove the bush and rotate it 180 degrees and glue it back in again.
                www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think if you line up the TDC timing marks on crank/cam pulleys - distributor should point to number one spark on the correct ignition cycle??
                  Last edited by Mike Brock; 4th March 2013, 00:45.

                  www.mgmaestroturbo.com Home of the Twincharged Maestro.

                  2014 Vauxhall Mokka 4x4 Turbo - Tech line

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                  • #10
                    you've got a good few degrees to be out by too so it doesn't have to be dead on.

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                    • #11
                      Have you checked all the fuses.my Monty done the same and after pulling my hair out I found one of the reverse light wires at the switch had snapped and it was touching the gearbox causing a fuse to blow but it only stopped the reverse lights and brake lights the same as yours,it was harder to find because if I remember it was a fuse for something totally different,got to be worth a look
                      Mick

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mike Brock View Post
                        I think if you line up the TDC timing marks on crank/cam pulleys - distributor should point to number one spark on the correct ignition cycle??
                        Sorry Mike that will not work. With the cam timing marks lined up the engine position is 90 degrees BTDC, no.1 cylinder on compression stroke. Safe Position.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by G Force View Post
                          Sorry Mike that will not work. With the cam timing marks lined up the engine position is 90 degrees BTDC, no.1 cylinder on compression stroke. Safe Position.
                          Yes G Force your quite right of course - I realized my mistake and edited it later with two question marks knowing someone would come along and correct me.

                          www.mgmaestroturbo.com Home of the Twincharged Maestro.

                          2014 Vauxhall Mokka 4x4 Turbo - Tech line

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Working on the brake lights this afternoon. I took out the brake switch and bridged the wires together with a spare 10amp fuse. Still no lights.

                            Also checked all fuses, all are fine. Am I right in assuming its a wiring problem?
                            It's Maestro Power that got me where I am today!
                            Add me on Facebook. Search for: Red Maestro


                            Jobs for 2012
                            Replace headlining: Done at last!
                            Prepare car for Longbridge 2012:Done
                            Prepare car for my wedding in August 3rd!!: She looked awesome, can't wait to see the official photos
                            Prepare car for St. Asaph car show: In process
                            Winter-proof car:

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              best place to start is at the back... gat a meter and make sure you have voltage in the plug that is where they are most liklely to go. the plugs corrode pretty common. but also, check the bulbs are in the correct way around...
                              and rememebr, brake lights only work when the ignition is on pos 3 or the car is running, same with reversing lamps.

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