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The New MG 2.0 wont start..

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  • #16
    Cheers alan - worth checking but fuel ran out was the initial problem.
    Jeff - i have 2 relays on order as soon as they arrive i will swap them out.
    Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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    • #17
      Originally posted by neallew View Post
      Cheers alan - worth checking but fuel ran out was the initial problem.
      Jeff - i have 2 relays on order as soon as they arrive i will swap them out.
      The relays are the same as an early V8 range rover
      Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 10th July 2019, 06:54.
      1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
      1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
      1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
      2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
      2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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      • #18
        Have a read http://maestro.org.uk/forums/forum/t...cuts-out-again
        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
        1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
        2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
        2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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        • #19
          Thanks Jeff, I have ordered 2 direct replacement relays - updated number of original bosch relays that were fitted - as old part num is obsolete. Still awaiting their arrival.
          Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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          • #20
            Our car just got harder to start, until it just wouldn't start. Have you checked the multi plug under washer bottle. Good luck.
            Alan

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            • #21
              Well managed to dig into it Friday afternoon - removed old fuel filter - fairly clean fuel flowing out of outlet - lots of crud inlet. - fitted new fuel pump with a temp plastic filter between it and the tank. Not ideal as bore not as large as original. fitted new relays and fuel pump. started ignition pump was now running for 3 seconds. repeated until fuel coming out of main fuel filter - reconnected pipes. Car then fired after several attempts but then ran rough for 30 sec before wouldnt restart. Ran out of time but i suspect not enough fuel coming thru temp fuel filter so i'm starving it. going to put a larger bore temp filter in as i dont want to drop tank quite yet and try again. How easy are they to drop off?
              on a happier note - used saturday to fit new clutch pipe to my mg metro - clean car and it won best mg in a local show on sunday.... now it needs an mot then i might be able to attack maestro again.
              Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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              • #22
                There are only four bolts holding the tank in, and the pipes of course. If you are planning to drop th tank out, start spraying penetrating oil on the bolts and clips now and keep doing it once æ week until the day you undo them. It might be uneccesary, but better safe than sorry. It might be that it is being recalictrant because of air in the system...if you keep trying it may go...I had a similar problem once on the side of the road and it eventually fired up and drove off as if nothing had happened...

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                • #23
                  if dropping tank isnt too bad i might do sooner rather than later then to get crud out.
                  Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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                  • #24
                    as long as the bolts don't snap an the pipes come off ok, it isn't bad. You don't need to take the front 2 bolts right out, as tank holes are slotted, so it just slides backwards. Prob a good idea to take them right out after tank is off and grease them to make future removal easier

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                    • #25
                      the fuel sensder conections are easy to take off? located on top of tank? anyone have a part number for the fuel sender?
                      Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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                      • #26
                        sender connections are on the front of the tank, so easy to get at..

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                        • #27
                          Tank removed - far more fuel in it than expected - around 28-29 litres - so minus 15 i added almost 15 was still in it when it stopped. very rusty stuff - so ordered por-15 kit to clean and reseal tank. ordered new fuel gauge - well might as well while I'm there. cleaned and de greased inside and out - ground back paint to find its been welded in one corner probably due to the big dent in front of the weld..... all looks good thou. Rust treated all the rust and will prime and repaint over next few days. Now I can see where the fuel pick up is - a small filter seems to have dropped out of tank - do i try bending fuel pick up lower into tank to try and help fuel pickup or just likely it was all the crud in tank causing issues? Then when completely dry inside time to put the sealer in....
                          Meanwhile a bit of rust tidy up under car while tank is out so i can rust clean that and cover with under-seal...
                          Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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                          • #28
                            If you're putting a sealer inside the tank, make sure it doesn't block the return swirl pot/pipe.
                            1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                            1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                            1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                            2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                            2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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                            • #29
                              Return pipe was already blocked so tried poking out no joy - sealed tank will run return in via breather pipe instead as suggested by someone on one of the facebook groups - or i'll have to have a new tank made... unless a spotless second hand one turns up
                              Stuck between devil and deep blue sea bottom of tank was rusty as fu... cant leave as is so have to try fix.
                              Silver MG Maestro - C555, needs some anti rust love

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by neallew View Post
                                Return pipe was already blocked so tried poking out no joy - sealed tank will run return in via breather pipe instead as suggested by someone on one of the facebook groups - or i'll have to have a new tank made... unless a spotless second hand one turns up
                                Stuck between devil and deep blue sea bottom of tank was rusty as fu... cant leave as is so have to try fix.
                                I think Luke tagged me in that post, was it in one of the many more obscure groups? I can't remember how we did his return, but if you search for 'freelander freelancer' (you'll see why ha ha ha) on the proper owners club group, it will come up with what may be a helpful post. it was a diesel tank, but it is virtually the same job on a turbo tank. You'll lose the in tank swirl pot by using an 'incorrect' tank, unless you are incredibly good at fitting things together in small holes. Diesel seemed happy with a plain pick up anyway. Luke's one still had the old tank, so just had the return rerouted. Also on there, should be pictures of Lee Bow's tank rebuild, which was bit more serious. https://www.facebook.com/groups/mand...epa=SEARCH_BOX

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