Perkins Timing Belt Queries

[Guest]

Hi all,

Got a few little problems changing the timing belt.

Firstly, i'm having trouble removing the water pump pulley bolts, simple enough, but am I missing something?

Secondly, in the absence of a scissor type tool to hold pulleys still, is it really necessary to remove the camshaft pulley?

Can't the timing belt be just placed over the pulleys? If I just remove the tensioner will that give enough 'play' to allow me to fit the belt?

Also has anybody got any tips on doing this job, i'm following the Haynes manual. Enough said.

Dean.

[E_T_V]

The water pump pulley bolts are a little tricky. I tend to remove the inner splash shield then use a socket and extensions and brace it against the inner wing to stop the pulley turning as you try to undo them.

No need to remove the cam pulley at all just keep it locked in position. Its fiddly and I usually also remove the idler pulley to start with to make fitting the belt easier.

[G Force]

To fit the belt you should losen the cam pulley centre nut if it does not have the vernier cam pulley. If the vernier pulley is fitted then you only losen the smaller bolts. You do this to aid fitting the belt and more importantly to maintain timing accuracy. You do need to losen the idler pulley and the tensioner to fit the belt. Fit the belt from the crank pulley then around the losened idler pulley, then around the locked injector pump pulley, then up to the locked camshaft but the gear lose. This is a fixed belt run and it is important to fit the belt in this direction to avoid getting the timing wrong. Once over the cam pulley continue around the tensioner, this part of the belt run will have slack in it.

Once the belt is in place first tighten the idler pulley. Then with the crank pump pulley and camshaft locked but the camshaft pulley still lose enough to still move you can tension the belt to the correct tension.

Once you have tensioned the belt tighten up the vernier bolts or single camshaft bolt before turning the engine. With all locking pins out turn the engine by hand 2 turns clockwise and recheck the belt tension and timing. If the belt needs retensioning you should fit the flywheel & camshaft locking pins and losen the vernier bolts or single camshaft bolt whichever you have, before retensioning the belt. This ensures the timing accuracy of the engine.

Keep repeating the process until happy with the tension. Remember if the belt tension is left too tight the belt will be noisy and the belt life much reduced, if too slack the belt will be noisy and could break quickly. It is worth taking the time and trouble to get it exactly right. When you are happy with the belt tension the correct thing to do next is set the injector pump plunger stroke (pump timing) as any disturbance of the cam belt can affect pump timing. If you dont have the tools to do this then, as long as you have carefuly followed the belt timing and tensioning procedure the timing inacuracies are at least kept to a minimum.


Gary

[Guest]

Cheers guys,

One other thing, what size bolts would you reccomend to lock the injector pump with?

Dean.

[Guest]

6/7 mm rings a bell

[E_T_V]

I can't remember the size as I bought them as a locking set for doing the job. Best £10 I've spent in a long time.

The cam and flywheel locking pins are 6.5mm I think. The ones to lock the pump are much smaller m4? perhaps. I can check tomorrow if needs be.

[Guest]

Are locking kits still available? I'm planning on using drill bits.

[E_T_V]

I believe so. I think a company called laser make them. I think I put up a picture of the locking kit a while ago. Drill bits will work fine, I just find the locking kit easier to use as it has everything you need in one box

[E_T_V]

With any luck the picture of my set should be linked below:


Some pics of them in use:
http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/att...9&d=1111874136
http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/att...0&d=1111874153

[Guest]

Cheers Dan, i'll keep my eye out for a set.

Meanwhile, I've just spent half a day trying to remove the last two bolts from the water pump pulley. Even after swearing and threatening the car with a tin opener, they still wouldn't budge. In the process one bolt has decided to start to turn into a lovely spherical blob . Looks like the angle grinder of doom is coming out and then off to purchase a new water pump.

Anybody got any spare pulley bolts going begging?

Dean, wishing he'd never started this bl**dy job

[E_T_V]

Make sure you usea 6 sidedsocket rather than a 12 sided one as these are much much less prone to rounding off nuts.

New pumps are expensive so I'd avoid that if at all possible.

[Guest]

I won't have much choice if i've still got the pulley thread stuck in it!

How can such a simple job turn out to be so awkward. It wouldn't be so bad if there was any way of locking the pulley so you could remove the bolts.

[Guest]

Just had a brainwave

If I refit the drivebelts, will that hold the pulley in place enough so I can undo the bolts on the pulley?

[G Force]

Just had a brainwave

If I refit the drivebelts, will that hold the pulley in place enough so I can undo the bolts on the pulley?

It does make it easier that way Dean, best of luck

Gary

[Guest]

Cheers Gary,

Can't you tell I've never done anything like this before!