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Powder coating vs Paint

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  • Powder coating vs Paint

    Opinions on powder coating vs simply respraying. I always assumed Powder coating would be best, but a colleague commented that for items underneath the car that are likely to get chipped, paint was better as it wasn't as brittle, ie suspension arms.
    Thoughts please! Also, recommendations on companies that I could send a box of bits off to for the above process? I can get the parts shot blasted before if that's any help.

    Cheers,
    Ian
    Ian Drew
    MG Maestro Turbo '400'
    MG ZT V8
    Rover 75 V6 Estate

  • #2
    In my experience I have found that 99.9% of any immediate issues are down to poor preparation of the metal surface. I cannot stress enough how important it is to properly prepare the surface for whatever you decide to do. Personally I do not like powder coating, I find it too brittle and especially underneath a car it is prone to a small chip or a scrape which in turn leads to water getting underneath the surface and rusting a long way under the rest of the coating. The old bull bars you used to find on late 80’s early 90’s shoguns, troopers etc... can always remember a small scrape or chip and once you started peeling back the coating the whole bar was rusty underneath. I feel powder coating once it has a little age / has had a chip or scrape just creates a lovely rust trap. God I can go on!!! So to sum up, good quality paint following a fantastic preparation for me.

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    • #3
      I'm a powder coat person as I find after being thoroughly shot blasted and coated properly it lasts longer and I find it more durable plus I'm dropping loads of suspension items off tomorrow for 384 ie anti roll bars rear beam bottom arms drum back plates gear linkage rods strut top cups calipers
      plus I've regularly used powder coating on escort rs axels and cross members and they look the dogs do dahs

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      • #4
        Thanks for the detailed response guys, looks I'm still stuck wondering ;-)
        I think I do some more research and also compare prices.
        Cheers,
        Ian
        Ian Drew
        MG Maestro Turbo '400'
        MG ZT V8
        Rover 75 V6 Estate

        Comment


        • #5
          If it’s something hidden away (i.e can’t spot chips scrapes etc immediately) then I would go for a good quality synthetic coach enamel. If sprayed on it will give a fantastic durable finish and look smooth and shiny. If the surface preparation is done correctly then it shouldn’t crack or flake even if it does get chipped. On items which the finish doesn’t need to be immaculate and shiny then I would give a good dose of primer, top coat followed by stone chip paint followed by a coat of waxoyl! Overkill maybe but you’d never have to worry about rusting!!!
          As with all paints and coatings use the best quality products you can find, prepare the surface with perfection and always follow the paint manufacturers recommendations on time between coats etc as the best adhesion is time critical especially when using synthetic based paints.

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          • #6
            How large are the items you want doing Ian?

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            • #7
              I'll be doing as many parts of my Maestro Turbo as possible, ie suspension arms, engine mounts, battery tray, etc etc. I've not decided to go as far as the rear suspension beam and anti-roll bars.

              Cheers,
              Ian
              Ian Drew
              MG Maestro Turbo '400'
              MG ZT V8
              Rover 75 V6 Estate

              Comment


              • #8
                I've picked up my rear suspension beam and anti roll bars today plus every other component from under the car ie bottom arms calipers gear linkages and they look amazing unfortunately I can't post pictures on here as it keeps saying file exceeds size but if you want photos of what they look like send me your email and I'll show you how good the rear beam looks when powdercoated

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                • #9
                  As someone else said preperation is everything. Anything that is to be powered coated, is beadblasted, so should be good. However, if it does chip there is nothing underneath to stop the brown stuff attacting.

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                  • #10
                    30 year old springs and cups came up better than new

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                    • #11
                      Those parts do look good.

                      Am I right in assuming that none of you chaps have had the hubs done? I was wondering if it would bugger up the bearings if left in or damage the faces if they are removed. To be fair, the hubs don't get too rusty.
                      I've had the brake calipers refurbished and that included powder coating in red, new pistons, nipples, seals etc. Fantastic job but did cost £150.

                      Cheers all.
                      Ian
                      Ian Drew
                      MG Maestro Turbo '400'
                      MG ZT V8
                      Rover 75 V6 Estate

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                      • #12
                        I've paid that amount before to have calipers refurbished but this time I had them shot blasted and fitted the new pistons and seals myself and it cost me just over £30 this time and I'm really pleased with the finish and money saved

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                        • #13
                          Bargain!
                          Ian Drew
                          MG Maestro Turbo '400'
                          MG ZT V8
                          Rover 75 V6 Estate

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