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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Tank back on, 3 gallons of fresh fuel in and starts on the button so maybe it was the tank. I'd cleaned it out anyway so it's now clean inside. Put all back in the engine bay, new breather pipe attached, tightened up the nearside bearing and put splash shield back on. Need to adjust the tickover as its a little high on choke but that's not a problem. Moved under its own steam back into the garage when we had finished for the day. Very good indeed and I've also found two NOS scuttles I sold to a friend years ago who's clearing a few things out. So will be picking them up at the end of the month
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 8th May 2022, 06:15.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Coolant pipes on, carb on. Turn the engine over for a while to build up pressure and the oil light went out. Connect the coil lead and...........excessive flooding of the carb. Checked the plumbing in the to carb and thats correct. Removed the plenum and fuel pumps out on the carb so possibly too much pressure. Replaced the pressure regulator and the same thing is happening, removed the carb and stripped it down, float is ok but checked the clearance anyway and a tiny adjustment.
    Connected back up and again non starting and too much pressure, removed the return pipe and the car started on the button and ran really well till the fuel ran out. So possibly the tank or return pipe is blocked somewhere, removed the tank in 20 mins, blew down the return pipe from the front and in the tank and both are now clear.
    So I'm not convinced it's the tank return blocked as I can now blow down it so will have to have another look at that on another day, looking like too much pressure so will have to find out why once we've put the tank back on.
    It's a strange one as it also points to the fuel pipes possibly being the wrong way round but I've never done that before and also checked agains't my manual just to be just sure so I'm convinced i've got that right
    The last time this happened there was a blockage in the return on my French turbo at the time, once I replaced the tank it was ok but this time i'm not sure it's the tank, or maybe it was and I've cleared it by removing it and blowing down the return etc
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 14th March 2022, 17:23.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Left to do, splash shields, connect the carb etc, coolant pipes , fill with water, and put petrol in the car. Then the usual build up the oil pressure and try to start

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    In it goes
    Attached Files

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Then the gearbox attached, up and in the engine bay
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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Sundays jobs, engine was a little heavy for us to put in Chris's car so picked up my engine hoist, pulled the car out and not moved since the engine bay clean in July last year
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 7th March 2022, 09:50.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    More, priming the oil pump and turbo once attached, clutch on
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  • Jeff Turbo
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    Both my son and i were not working at the weekend so next parts on the car. Saturday was putting the last part on the engine etc for transportation to the garage. Head on, manifolds on, oill return on and (not shown )the head shield for it
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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Well more things for me to find that the 'engine company' lost. The lower sensor for the carb cooling fan. That was a challenge finding that part number. Some good things though as the little things matter, some rare part for the engine and a trial fit before adding the bolt washers and tightening to the first torque stage and added the new thermostat housing
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 24th February 2022, 14:02.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    These days there are three sorts of stem seals. Original has the brass surround and cup underneath, new are without the brass surround, face lift with later engines have all as one piece. Unfortunately the new stem seals I had were the older type so I had to strip down the old head and get the cups out as the existing were the later type.
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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Heads back together and what a pain to put the collets in as the holders were mixed up, one bolt at the back isn't long enough to tighten so I have put an old bolt in for now and will replace it later. Waiting for the sealant to go off before the next bit
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 22nd February 2022, 20:34.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    And ive managed to nearly finish the zs. Finding the correct parts is a challenge as the condenser I was send is for a 120 so no good. I've now gone to my local radiator company to make one and finally located a new air con pipe that was damaged. The car is only 21 years old but a lot of parts are no longer available with is part of the norm for montego and maestro parts
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 12th February 2022, 21:22.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Had a bit of time to clean up the head before putting back together.
    Won't win any awards but has to be done.
    All threads cleaned up, valves cleaned enough, new bolts found, all surfaces flattened. Bolts are the same as a Morris marina head.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 12th February 2022, 14:30.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Yep, can concur with that, compressor, condenser, dryer and two pipes knackered. Fuel leak is the fuel filler pipe and i'm not looking forward to doing that as most of the bolts and screws haven't been moved for 20 years
    Attached Files

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post

    Have to finish his ZS180 first. The front of the car has to come off for me to replace the air con system in the engine bay as it's knackered, then find the petrol leak at the rear of the car. I've already sorted the MOT, welding it needed so it's a good job I love him
    rather you than me...aircon is no fun at all, mystery petrol leaks can be a horror show too...

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