Originally posted by Jeff Turbo
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Monza Red MG 1600 R series
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The innards of the fan motor, very easy to dismantle, as long as the two nuts come off ok (these did) the two halves of the motor casing are sandwiched onto a steel plate which is riveted to the plastic frame. No need to take the rivets out and fan only needs to come off if you need to remove te rotor from the casing. Luckily I didn't, as it all looked in good nick & dribbling oil into the casing did work..if the shaft had been rusted into the bush, I'd have had no choice.....
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More progress today, underbonnet sound deadening seems to have been eaten in parts, will probably replace this with some more modern material which should be lighter and more flame retardant. The scuttle was full of foliage, so cleaned it out, no real rust problem in there, so gave it a coat of jenolite. Will have a few blanking grommets to fit too, seems as though there are a few missing, which would make it a bit draughty.. Wiper spindle bushes are badly worn, so will replace them, motor seems fine though.
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One small job done today, made some new air cleaner to carb gaskets using the only new one I could find as a pattern. This is made from cork, which is not an 'ethanol friendly' material, but in theory should be out of contact with the fuel, so should be ok. The new one was a bit different to the originals, but if need be I can cut the centrehole bigger.
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Still using Cork gaskets john? Thought there would be something else. I'm guessing the engine etc is nearly done?1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black now with new engine and gearbox
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Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostStill using Cork gaskets john? Thought there would be something else. I'm guessing the engine etc is nearly done?
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Got the carbs set up today, I used a set of four cheap vacum gauges from ebay, I checked that the all read the same before using them, I guess not as good a quality as the Austin Rover tool, but they did the job & having four of them makes it a bit quicker. The air bleed settings were well out and took a while to get right, as adjusting each one alters the others slightly. Then moved onto the mixture setting, I cheated again & used four colourtunes to speed things up. It was running very rich at first, so I adjusted the idle mixture so that all four were just slightly rich. It is running rich right across the rev range, which is a bit odd, unless someone has fiddled with the jets in the past. On the plus side my aim was to make it slightly rich if possible to help counteract the likely side effects of using crappy modern petrol, the additives will help I guess. My feeling is that setting a slightly souped up engine from the 1980's to run 'just right' or slightly lean will be a recipe for burned valves & unneccessary engine work. I won't know how well I've set it up until it is on the road, good news is that the emission test limits for cars of this age are quite lenient. One good sign was that when I had to switch off because a plug lead came off, it restarted instantly, at this point it was pretty warm under there...
Last edited by Doctordiesel77; 4th August 2021, 22:01.
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