Black Efi resurrection

[Doctordiesel77]

Coming on slowly John, but getting there. I see you're poly bushing everything and nice job of the brake pipes

Yes, only a few years behind schedule , slowly beats not moving at all! I thought polybushes might save ever having to do it again, time will tell though... I got a useful thing for straightening copper brke pipes at the NEC last year, it is surprising what a difference it makes, wasn't particularly cheap even with the 'show discount', but does a good job of getting rid of all the little kinks & makes the pipe look like it belongs there..https://www.kwixuk.com/ make them, a relatively local product!

[Doctordiesel77]

Got a bit more done, fuel tank and brake cable are a doddle to fit when the car is upside down on the jig. It is starting to get a bit heavy now, so gave the underside and box sections a good coating of waxoyl & left it upside down. My theory is that it should soak into the crevices that it'd be running out of if done the right way up...time will tell! I was glad I'd gone over the top with the ppe, the air fed mask is more for two pack than for waxoyl, but it did save me from waxoyling myself..

[Jeff Turbo]

You're going for solid pipes around the tank rather than normal fuel pipe John?

[Doctordiesel77]

You're going for solid pipes around the tank rather than normal fuel pipe John?

Yes, my theory is that the smaller the area of rubber that is exposed to ethanol laced petrol (even though the new rubber claims to be ethanol 'resistant'), the less chance there is of a porous pipe. Doubling up on the number of connections is a downside, but will see what happens. The filler pipe will be the biggest likely problem I guess. Hopefully it will go the way I hope & if it is a disaster, at least all the bolts will be easy to get out as they are greased up to the eyeballs

[Jeff Turbo]

Yes, my theory is that the smaller the area of rubber that is exposed to ethanol laced petrol (even though the new rubber claims to be ethanol 'resistant'), the less chance there is of a porous pipe. Doubling up on the number of connections is a downside, but will see what happens. The filler pipe will be the biggest likely problem I guess. Hopefully it will go the way I hope & if it is a disaster, at least all the bolts will be easy to get out as they are greased up to the eyeballs

It'll take ages to rust the fuel filler pipe after you've painted it. Will last you out lol

[Doctordiesel77]

It'll take ages to rust the fuel filler pipe after you've painted it. Will last you out lol

I'd like to think so...it was the rubber hose joining it to the tank that I'm wondering about, it contains petrol for most of the time & is a shaped piece of pipe, so not an off the shelf straight length like the van. I'll find out later & I guess worst case make a flattened metal joiner & use two short bits of new hose at least it won't dribble petrol over the exhaust from there!

[Jeff Turbo]

I'd like to think so...it was the rubber hose joining it to the tank that I'm wondering about, it contains petrol for most of the time & is a shaped piece of pipe, so not an off the shelf straight length like the van. I'll find out later & I guess worst case make a flattened metal joiner & use two short bits of new hose at least it won't dribble petrol over the exhaust from there!

Nar should be ok as it's not continuously in petrol, only when filling and vapours

[Doctordiesel77]

A bit more progress, refurbished calipers fitted, so it should stop ok, just need to make it go now.....

[Jeff Turbo]

Very good, getting there slowly

[Doctordiesel77]

A bit more progress, sound insulation fitted (came from a diesel, as petrol cars didn't have it under the bonnet), brake servo fitted, reservoirs cleaned & fitted, brakes filled with silicon brake fluid and preliminary bleeding done. Cleaning the brake fluid reservoir was a bit of a learning curve, normal brake fluid being alcohol based I tried a variety of aqueous solvents, only thing that worked was domestos zero limescale remover, it was very efficient & washed off easily with clean water. Drying the water out took a while, a hair dryer on low heat setting did the job though.

[Jeff Turbo]

Came up ok that didn't it

[Doctordiesel77]

Came up ok that didn't it

Yes, I was quite surprised that the limescale remover was the only thing that shifted the deposits from the brake fluid, but will know what to use next time. It worked in seconds & doesn't seem to have harmed the plastic, definitely need gloves on though!

[Doctordiesel77]

Giving the sunroof a quick clean up & check over didn't go according to plan...think I've made one working one out of three with various faults! Amazing how much surface rust was inside the new old stock door, especially under the anti-drumming pads, hopefully "Rust Anode" will do what it says on the tin & make the door last for ever (or thereabouts)..

[Doctordiesel77]

Thought I'd get the front doors pained, couldn't decide whether to rub down the bits that showed signs of surface rust & leave the rest, or take it all back to bare metal. Lucky that I chose the second option, it involved a lot of hard work, but revealed that there was a lot more surface rust that there looked to be at first. Having removed the paint I decided to try a coat of 'rust-anode' cold galvanising, in theory it should protect against rust better than 'ordinary' paint, and should be easy enough to put ordinary paint over it. I'll know how easy it is to paint over very soon, but won't know how rustproof it is for a few years!

[Jeff Turbo]

Coming on a treat Dr D