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BLOG: race/rally MG Maestro 1600 - "Pink Panther"

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  • Thanks, yes I phoned Templar and he also sent me a free sample kit of each type/tint of plastic -v helpful chap.

    I could buy a large sheet of plastic and use the existing plastic windows as templates to cut the new ones with a jigsaw (anything except an angle grinder will work, I'm advised), but they will be a bit rough on edges so will still need finishing by hand.

    However, getting the sheet is not cheap. How big would it need to be to do all -there are all manner of sizes of sheet available?. Unlike the factory, I won't have loads of offcuts lying around to make the smaller windows cheaply

    http://www.plasticsheets.org.uk/4mm-...ths-2396-p.asp
    2m x 2m 129.10 inc VAT


    http://www.plasticsheets.org.uk/4mm-...ide-2585-p.asp
    2m x 2m 249.92 inc VAT

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    • Info on how to put lateral bars into car (to bolt the seat mounts down onto):

      https://www.fia.com/regulation/category/123
      253 - Safety Equipment
      p22 of 38

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      • ACW

        Full kit (2 front windows no sliders, 2 rear windows, 2 quarterlights & a rear window) = 155.40+ VAT
        each slider is +21 + VAT

        Full kit (2 front windows with sliders, 2 rear windows, 2 quarterlights & a rear window) = 256.98 inc VAT & delivery

        Full kit (2 front windows IN HARD COAT POLY with sliders, 2 rear windows, 2 quarterlights & a rear window) = 340.90 inc VAT & delivery

        Tinted (for all windows except the front to be tinted) as it doesn't show up the scratches as much as clear poly. Grey tint = light metallic blue during day and looks black in eve. Or try Bronze (like a 2 pence coin).

        Black edge: primer paint or can get a sign writer to do it.

        Can get rear window made to same size as old one -check if each window is fitted into rubber seal, or if it is a larger size (so send it to the firm so they can replicate its size).
        2-2.5 weeks to make the windows.

        Fitting kit 8.20 + VAT
        5m neoprene rubber 4mm depth x 10mm wide (self-adhesive on one side so that you can still remove/change the window if required). Stick this around the edge of the poly panel to stop water ingress.
        40 stainless nuts/bolts Nyloc (so you don't overstress/crack the pol when bolting it up)

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        • Car back from Angus.

          Stuff to go onto the Jobs List
          where is all the missing kit from inside the car?
          Is there enough fuel in the car?
          Front tyres don't hold air for more than 2-4 weeks approx
          Flat battery
          Needs an Accumate charging lead on the battery (sticking out of the battery box)
          Needs the Jump Lead connection points in engine bay labelling clearly (and/or photographing)
          Low coolant sensor needed
          Is it leaking coolant? (it had lost a lot of coolant during its drive north and there was a trail of water on the tarmac near house!)
          Replace existing coolant (probably too weak as it was re-filled with a hosepipe!) with distilled water and anti-freeze
          Blow from exhaust manifold?
          Bonnet stay needs affixing properly
          Where is the switch to turn on the black stalk light above co-driver's seat?
          Engine Kill cable needs a screw-lug on the end (after cable goes through hole in red T-handle). If cable isn't long enough it will need to be replaced. T-handle needs a slot cutting in it so that it can be removed from car inbetween outings (for security).
          Test drive car


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          • This car is currently looking for a new home, urgently.

            It is outside under a cover and I'm conscious that it will degrade if left out for too long in the elements. Is anyone interested in taking it on?

            It was MOTd before being parked up, and is currently located near Silverstone circuit, NORTHANTS.

            It's a Stage Rally '84 MG Maestro 1600 in decent order which is eligible for Category 4 Historic Rallying.

            I don't have much time to use it (or work on it). Anyone interested in using it? I can co-drive for you, or vice versa. Or we can each use it for the events we want to do. Or you can take it on for a year or 2 and do some events.

            Open to suggestions really.

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            • Sorry to hear that John, Best of luck with it
              1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
              1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser
              1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
              1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. New cruiser
              2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
              2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
              2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done.

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              • On Thursday 19 Nov 2020 a College collected the Maestro.

                The latest update is as follows:
                "we are looking to move the apprentices onto the Maestro in June to start inspection, servicing and repair of the vehicle. The first session will be to strip, clean/inspect the brakes and if we have time replace brake fluid and bleed the system.

                Can you remember when the car was last started ? as we will potentially look at getting it running again too."

                It could well be several years since the Maestro last ran. It was last MOTd in Sep 17, and I believe that it drove back to me in Jan 18 so this was probably when it last ran.

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                • Update from College:

                  "The group have inspected all wheel stations on the Maestro and they have stripped down cleaned/copper greased the brake components. I have also got them to examine the brake pipes for corrosion throughout the car and they are currently writing up a report on their findings.

                  Further to this we have removed the leaking water pump to examine the cause of the leak and we have concluded that the bearing seal has failed internally so will need replacement. The apprentices noted a build up of crystallised coolant and further examined the thermostat and associated hoses.



                  Unfortunately during the strip down of the N/S rear brake drum it was noted that the hub nut had been cross threaded onto the spindle at some point in the past and , as such would not remove or tighten. I have taken the decision to remove it at the moment until we can potentially get hold of a new hub spindle and nut. (I will tack weld on a nut temporarily to allow the vehicle to be rolled when it needs moving)



                  would you be happy to look into a water pump and hub spindle ? I believe they are in the region of 15 and 70 respectively.



                  Once we can get these repairs done we can look at getting it running and moving again."


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