2L Diesel Temp and Oil Pressure Sensors

[robert1]

well it seem the thing only alters the timing at the lower end of the rpm range.
https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/vi...njection-pumps

[Doctordiesel77]

It seems like an odd way of doing it really, I've not had one fail (either that or I never noticed!)..but should have a dud pump somewhere that might have one fitted, I'll see if I can find it.

[robert1]

the marine diesels have the hole advance unit mounted in a different place.

[Martingo]

OK I've removed the switch as per photo below.
It has another number 311/E1
I tested it again on the bench as I thought maybe the wire connection was corroded and not taking the live but still no deifference.

[Martingo]

Update!!
I've been messing about with it and took the old wire connection off, I had to grind the nut off as it wouldn't move and I was afraid of stripping the whole thing off. Anyway after cleaning it up and new wire connection it works!! I don't really know why, whether it was heavily corroded terminal or I've disturbed something but it works. I guess there's always the risk it will pack in again when I put it back but hopefully I can see how it changes the engine running, hopefully bit more power. I read in the manual that if this things fails and stays in the advanced position it would cause loss of power.

[robert1]

good good, hopefully it will be fine as they are expensive, if not my wild guess would be part number BOSCH 1467202311 as the last 3 digits of the part number seem to be stamped on it.

[Martingo]

Thanks for the info, I did google the number you suggest but couldn't actually find anywhere that was actually selling the Bosch part - have you seen it for sale? I'm very nervous about it failing again and not being able to get a replacement part.

I refitted the switch and it still works so I can now take a live off the fuel stop solenoid and see if the temperature sensor turns it on and off. Can't run the engine yet as I've drained the oil to fit the tee for the oil pressure gauge. Just straying off the subject a bit what oil are people using for the age of diesel engine. I always have this dilemma when it comes to oils in old cars and bikes as to which engines will take which oil. Also the same issue with antifreeze! I've drained that and was looking at the recommended spec and what is out there, in my other old cars and bikes I tend to use the Bluecol 'blue' stuff as I know it's safe for most situations.

[Doctordiesel77]

I use Evans waterless coolant, as it is cheaper than changing the anti freeze every two years. I use this oil https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373537080...wAAOSwBQ1db6OW , but a lower spec oil would be ok, they are not like vw/bmw engines which will fly to bits if they see a tin of 'off spec' oil.. I found that it wasn't much cheaper tho'... Perkins say minimum spec for turbo engine is API cd/se & viscosity 15w40 for ambient temp -10 to +50°c. If you do use normal anti-freeze, don't be tempted to skip changing it every two years, the anti corrosion addatives tend to be wearing thin by then & head gasket will start to corrode. I haven't found my scrap pump yet, but when I do I'll test the cold start & let you know, so you can either get a spare, or just know where there is a spare

[robert1]

yes I have seen it for sale but the website looks a bit dodgy, and you would still need to ask what numbers are on the thing. bluecol 50% is good, do not use red as it will not protect copper or brass.
You don't need to drain the oil to fit a tee

[Martingo]

Thanks for the info

The Evans waterless looks interesting but I couldn't find info on the life of it? I probably wouldn't use it at this stage as I will need to drain it a few time over the next year or so for various jobs.

The Bluecol 'blue' concentrate stuff seems to be getting more difficult to buy, they seem to be pushing this universal one now that does all and everything! Other brands I looked at also seem to be going this way and selling the ready to use rather than concentrate. I reckon I will need 9 or 10 litres as the radiator is bigger than a standard Montego I think.

I decided to drain the oil anyway and fit new filter before fitting the pressure gauge as it was already doing strange things based on the pressure warning light going off and then coming on again.

[Doctordiesel77]

Morris Oils still sell a variety of coolants, this might be an interesting talk https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/o...olant-training. .Smith and Allen should have a choice too, both firms have a decent tech help set up, so should be able to recommend something suitable. I guess you'll already have noticed that the Prima fuel filter is the same as a 300Tdi & the oil filter is the same as an L series Freelander, they generally seem to be cheaper from a Land Rover parts place!
In theory the Evans coolant should last indefinately, but I'll be changing mine every twelve years

[Martingo]

Hi guys - I've been reading back on an old post of mine to remind myself what the advice was regarding the oil pressure gauge and light.
As I said back in the old post I fitted the tee and oil pressure gauge and it works great, very good oil pressure showing all the time. However I've still got this strange issue with the light - it goes off when the engine first starts but after about 30 sec or a minute the light comes back on and stays on.....any ideas?

Cheers

[robert1]

The switch must have a hole in its diaphragm so pressure equalizes.

[Martingo]

OK thanks, new one ordered..... I thought I'd already fitted new but maybe not, or I got a duff one.

[robert1]

Be careful, I have had trouble with the cheap ones only screwing in by one or two threads, two much plating maybe. I got a genuine ac one now and the fit is good.