Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

maestro turbo REAR anti roll bar

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • maestro turbo REAR anti roll bar

    all, does anyone have a picture to hand of the rear axle of a maestro turbo and the rear roll bar set up?
    i will be incorporating one into my MG1600 restoration so could do with good clear pics of the set up/mounting brackets and mounting points.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Mr bump View Post
    all, does anyone have a picture to hand of the rear axle of a maestro turbo and the rear roll bar set up?
    i will be incorporating one into my MG1600 restoration so could do with good clear pics of the set up/mounting brackets and mounting points.
    I'll be able to take one tomorrow or sunday if nobody else comes up with one. It is an efi, but same setup, it fixes through the two holes on either side under the strut mount & follows the line of the rear axle, so very simple, but sometimes a pain to remove.

    Comment


    • #3
      Cheers Dr D. :-)

      Comment


      • #4
        Thread hijack! I've dropped you a PM Mr Bump!
        Membership Secretary
        Join the M&MOC | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)


        1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
        2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
        1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car


        You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't

        Comment


        • #5
          here are some pictures, the later axles had the lugs fitted as standard, but early ones didn't...easiest way to fit an antiroll bar is probably to get a complete axle from an efi, which will be ready assembled. The spacer between the lugs is generally rusted onto the bar... Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0004.JPG
Views:	257
Size:	1.74 MB
ID:	335111 Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0003.JPG
Views:	257
Size:	1.58 MB
ID:	335112 Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0005.JPG
Views:	255
Size:	1.35 MB
ID:	335113
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            That's.fantastic Dr D, appreciate your time and Info mate.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Mr bump View Post
              That's.fantastic Dr D, appreciate your time and Info mate.
              No problem, hope you get it sorted out, Rover 200 anti roll bar is similar, not sure if they are interchangeable though... How are you getting on with the rest of the car?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post

                No problem, hope you get it sorted out, Rover 200 anti roll bar is similar, not sure if they are interchangeable though... How are you getting on with the rest of the car?
                Not to bad thanks, its always slow at the start, stripping, bagging/tagging, cleaning, ive bought around 90% new parts, so itl be a near enough new car so to speak., i think it will be ready for paint in 4/5 weeks fingers crossed.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sounds good, looking forward to seeing the finished article...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I fitted the rear anti roll bar to my 86 HLS when new, so I assume all rear axles had the location points once the EFI came out. With no other suspension changes, i'm sure it was a waste of time, but I was only 18 and I thought it was sporty!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      All, I've been looking a bit closer into this "anti-roll" bar for our maestro cars, and looking at it with all 25 yrs of racing single seater F2 cars, rally cars and indeed restoring hot hatches, it's not a roll bar, it's a poor offering in the guise of a weak torsion bar.
                      it's fits only onto the rear axle for starters, has no contact with the body shell of the car, it just sits there.
                      Plus, the rear beam axle is an vastly over engineerd rear beam, the thickness of the metal and style of manufacture says its not going to move, and even if it did decide to flex (must be put under some serious stress load to move a single inch), that little bar won't do a thing, the beam would be too far gone.
                      so I'm designing a different ARB set up, one that actually does do what the title suggests.
                      il keep all who are interested up dated.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=Mr bump;n336502]All, I've been looking a bit closer into this "anti-roll" bar for our maestro cars, and looking at it with all 25 yrs of racing single seater F2 cars, rally cars and indeed restoring hot hatches, it's not a roll bar, it's a poor offering in the guise of a weak torsion bar.
                        it's fits only onto the rear axle for starters, has no contact with the body shell of the car, it just sits there.
                        Plus, the rear beam axle is an vastly over engineerd rear beam, the thickness of the metal and style of manufacture says its not going to move, and even if it did decide to flex (must be put under some serious stress load to move a single inch), that little bar won't do a thing, the beam would be too far gone.
                        so I'm designing a different ARB set up, one that actually does do what the title suggests.
                        il keep all who are interested up dated.[/QUOTE
                        The H frame iself acts as an anti roll bar, if you fit a lateral brace between the pivot and wheel a pair of trailing arms it increases its resistance to roll. There is a bit about it here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-...ear_suspension . It is an easy experiment, support the car on stands and put a jack under one wheel, then compare the trim height on both sides as you jack it up... The anti roll bar definately increases resistance to roll, I've always thought that all anti roll bars were torsion bars & can't see how they'd work if they weren't? Mind you, if you make a better one you could probably sell a few to turbo owners
                        Last edited by Doctordiesel77; 28th October 2022, 23:52.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          FWD cars need a good rear ARB set up otherwise the back end wants to say hello to the front constantly, good tyres on the rear helps quiet a bit, but it's that huge body lollering around when threw into bends.
                          the fixing points for the beam dont realy help, it throws the action of the beam (as the cars arb) out some what. The bar on the beam only restricts the beam from flexing, does nothing for body roll which is a lot of sprung weight, might increase grip IF the beam flexs, but it doesn't.
                          But like everything BL, Austin rover and rover made, the tuning of engines and body is endless.
                          drop links to where the shocker base fixing points are will increase the stiffness, and a 3/4" dia bar with a 90° bend either end would achieve a simple but improved set up.
                          If the maestro had a IRS system, it would be so much easier, but we all love a challenge.
                          Last edited by Mr bump; 29th October 2022, 09:14.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Probably for the best that they didn't make it fully independant...just imagine all of those potentially unobtainable bushes!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The Maestro/Montego rear ARB is a cheap compromise to increase roll stiffness at the rear. Sure, an ARB mounted to body would be more effective but also more expensive, and would require body mounts to be engineered. It would also increase noise (as if that was any concern to BL back in the day).

                              The twist-beam is so named because it allows some independence to rear wheel vertical movement while giving an in-built level of anti-roll. Being fabricated out of steel it has excellent resistance to fatigue, so the constant stress cycling is (usually) not a problem.

                              Adding the ARB to the assembly increases its torsional stiffness (slightly) so it will have some effect. As Mr bump says, probably not ideal for the track, but perfectly serviceable for the A38.

                              To be honest I view the twist-beam as a high point of automotive engineering - it's cheap, simple, lightweight and effective. Sadly it's fallen out of favour these days which makes things expensive and difficult for later owners or restorers like us.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X