MG Turbo

[Jeff Turbo]

Jeff - that is excellent thank you! I cannot seem to change the site to English like you have managed. Have registered to buy. All tips welcomed as I think the postage isn’t calculating. I assume they’ll contact me after I buy.

You may have to contact them Matt for post to the UK

[Jeff Turbo]

Try here, still available I think https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=5105d...2IxZWI4ZTYxMDI

[Jeff Turbo]

And here

[MatthewL]

My apologies Jeff. I’d not seen that you’d added these new links. The EccoParts one is seen in my searches which was sold on visiting the site.

The eBay one is interesting. Says it’s for a Rover 800 but the part number looks right as you say. Will see if they’ll ship to the U.K. if I can translate the language to send them a message! Many thanks.

[grogee]

My apologies Jeff. I’d not seen that you’d added these new links. The EccoParts one is seen in my searches which was sold on visiting the site.

The eBay one is interesting. Says it’s for a Rover 800 but the part number looks right as you say. Will see if they’ll ship to the U.K. if I can translate the language to send them a message! Many thanks.

Base Rover 800e was broadly the same as MG Maestro with O-series 8v 2.0 injection.

[MatthewL]

In hopefully positive news I have managed to source an ADU 8479 - the Spanish breakers wouldn’t post to the U.K. so I had it shipped to Germany and my cousin who lives there has posted it today. Hoping it arrives safely and that it works!

[Jeff Turbo]

And now back on here as that thread was for an ECU
I'm usually having to look at this on my mobile but have a few days now on my main computer so can look properly
I've just read through the first issues you put on with the car as you mentioned over fueling in your other thread. On turning the ignition on I'm guessing the fuel pump primes? Does it then stop before you try to start the car or keep running as I diagnosed that issue with an MG Montego efi just before the NEC in November? As you also mentioned the fuel cut off isn't working I'm wondering if it's been bypassed as his car was?

Im also putting the issue back to this original thread as it's getting confusing with two threads
This is from an original thread about rough starting and the guy altered the stepper motor, they are pre-set at the factory so it could also be your issue. There is a carb on ebay atm with a stepper motor attached so maybe change the stepper to that one with new seals? Can't guarantee it but it might be worth a punt. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116696732....c101465.m3507
He never did get the car to run correctly from memory if it's the same car .
There's also one here with a stepper on it https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...b&__tn__=!%3AD
I've asked this before but does the small rod from the stepper push out when turning the ignition on from cold and gradually retract as the car warms up, and did you try the plenum removal and spraying easy start or fuel in the back of the carb.
You now have the correct ignition ECU on the car so you don't have that issue about timing.
Gimmy you address and i will also send up the fast checks

Slowly getting There!!

Hi Guys, the Monty is now starting at the first turn of the key from cold!!!! Simply amazing. The ignition is still very retarded though until I give the throttle a good blip. Still suspect the ignition ECU for that as I managed to get my hands on a 2nd hand crank sensor which didn't cure the problem, which only leaves the ECU that could affect the timing.
As far as the starting problem went I ended up taking off the Stepper motor, removed the rotary valve from it & refitted the valve using spacers in place of the stepper motor housing. Then I could operate the rotary valve manually to see just what was going on. Well it would start every time from cold like that, so obviously the stepper motor hadn't been doing its thing properly. Anyway to cut a long story short I disconnected & checked all electrical connections, removed & checked the water temperature thermistor, ( 5k ohms when really cold, 600 ohms when hot ) this is a bit different than I've seen in other posts especially the cold resistance. Connecting & disconnecting the thermistor did cause the stepper motor to work correctly once it was refitted. So, was it a poor connection somewhere?? Wish I could have found a definite fault. Not to worry though, at least the car will start in the carpark at work now, and not have me hiding my face in embarassment!!
Some of them were starting a " Guess how many minutes it takes to start the Montego competition " !!! Still need to get my hands on an ECU though, sourcing one locally is proving to be difficult to say the least, may have to get one from the club if all else fails.

[Jeff Turbo]

Or try here for a new one part 34 but I wouldn't know what other parts he moved about or adjusted. The internal part number is LZX1913 for turbos according to the SU parts book I have which differs from other stepper motors. It's the internal part only and not the full housing. Click on full spares on this link for a blow up of the parts https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=05a6f...Fscy9pZC8xODIz I wouldn't know of the differences though as all do look the same. Perhaps Dr Diesel can make a comment on it ? The drop down list doesn't show it but it's here https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=3c3db...WJseS0xLmh0bWw

[MatthewL]

Hi Jeff. I’ve dropped you a note with my address - very kind offer - much appreciated, thank you.

A few things to respond to above:

Heat shield - yes it’s there - plastic curved thing
Fuel into inlet manifold - the plugs are wet when it’s run and conked out - plugs quite black from only ever warming up and not being driven
Fuel pump priming - I removed the hose to the carb after it conked, put in a pressure gauge and turned it over - showed 4psi so pump was working as expected. Car doesn’t cut out like a fuel being cut off - it runs getting rougher before it conks and won’t restart despite a strong spark
Fuel cut off - this must be bypassed as when the engine is running you can pull the plug out or press the switch, makes no odds.
Fuel direct into carb - I can possibly try this tomorrow if I get it to conking out temp again.
Stepper - mine on the car as bought seemingly was bust - the one fitted I was provided and fitted by Vinny - the little poker works as it should so as per you previous post it should be ok hopefully
Spacers and rotary valve - I have never seen under the stepper but this seems a good suggestion if I can do this to trial turning off the choke when it’s warm and died, and trying a restart

I’ll check out those links now - thank you

[Jeff Turbo]

Hear shield is asbestos. I would still try the fuel in the back on the carb. If fuel is getting in but not going into the manifold it could be the float issue, getting stuck maybe. If the car fires up briefly then no fuel is getting to the manifold when running hot/warm so something internal of the carb. I've got your address now and will send the fast checks up on the 2nd Jan
Fuel cut off should be pressed down to work as it pops up in an accident to cut the fuel off. If you've disconnected it and the pump is still working it's possibly been bypassed. The car would normally keep running until the fuel in the carb is used up with the pump not working. You probably already know that though

[MatthewL]

Thanks Jeff. My pal and I ran the engine previously with the cut off switch removed and it made no odds. I think we’d have left it off long enough to empty the float chamber but I can’t recall. I may need to look again. Certainly the car runs for 10+ minutes with it in its current switch position.

A sticking float is something I’d not thought of and I will try adding fuel as you suggest. Hopefully get to try this this weekend all being well.

[Jeff Turbo]

Thanks Jeff. My pal and I ran the engine previously with the cut off switch removed and it made no odds. I think we’d have left it off long enough to empty the float chamber but I can’t recall. I may need to look again. Certainly the car runs for 10+ minutes with it in its current switch position.

A sticking float is something I’d not thought of and I will try adding fuel as you suggest. Hopefully get to try this this weekend all being well.

Mi Matt, posted the fast checks this morning.
If the car runs on for 10 mins with the isolator popped up or disconnected then it's possibly been bypassed so you may want to have a look at that. I'm guessing the fuel pump primes then stops before trying to start? If not there maybe an extra wire attached to the starter motor to use as a live. That's what was the issue with the MG Montego efi I diagnosed

[MatthewL]

Thanks Jeff. I look forward to their arrival. I may look again at the cut off as there were no obvious wires working as a bypass but we got power to the fuel pump regardless of the switch being connected or not. I may have missed something.

A sticking float is something I’d not thought of and I will try adding fuel as you suggest. Hopefully get to try this this weekend all being well.

[Jeff Turbo]

regardless of the switch being connected or not. I may have missed something.

A sticking float is something I’d not thought of and I will try adding fuel as you suggest. Hopefully get to try this this weekend all being well.

I had that on an old project MG Montego Turbo I was working on, had to dremel one millimeter off one side of the carb bowl, after that it was ok

[MatthewL]

Hi Jeff. Tried the 2 testers today. The ignition tool tests went perfectly with expected results when engine cold.

Then tried the fuel Fast Check but no lights came on at all. I cleaned all contacts but no joy again. Any thoughts please on what I’m doing wrong?

Car then decided it would only run on 3 cylinders (or so it sounded) so today o couldn’t warm it up to test again. I’ll clean the plugs and try that this week. Cheers