2.0GSi Not Starting...

[D87SMW]

The blue / white wire to engine speed resistor is the engine speed signal from the programmed ignition ECU to the fuel injection ECU, should not really have any influence on the ignition operation, however it would prevent the injectors from operating if the resistor was faulty. The value of the resistor should be 6.8 Kohms.

Nothing again.

My Dad took apart what he tells me is a 'ballast resistor' - from what I saw, a small rectangular white box - which tested at 3-4 Kohms...

To be honest I'm hopeless with electrics and sensors etc. so I'm very close to getting an auto-electrician to look at it now.

[G Force]

Nothing again.

My Dad took apart what he tells me is a 'ballast resistor' - from what I saw, a small rectangular white box - which tested at 3-4 Kohms...

Hi Steve

The white resistor is only for the fuel pump and will not affect the ignition system. Incidentally the value of that resistor should be 1 ohm, but don't concern yourself with that until you have her running again.

The problem could be several things now.

It could be that the replacement ECU that was faulty? I tend to lean away from this until we check it out further.

It could be a bad earth for the ECU that has now killed the replacement ECU. the earth points for the ignition system are grouped with others on the front bumper mounts, I think also there is one on the battery tray?

It could be a bad connection / broken wire in the ignition system. Try giving the plugs on the N/S inner wing, ECU and the crank sensor a good wiggle whilst trying to start her to crudely check the connections, if you get a cough or trying to start you know your somewhere in the right area.

If you have your multi-meter then you want to check for battery volts at coil + white wire, & no less than 1v below battery volts on coil - white / black wire. Check for battery volt on the white wire at the ECU. Check for continuity on the crank sensor white / blue & blue / purple wires to ECU.

Hope you find something but if not it might just be that the spare ECU was removed because it was problematic?

Cheers, Gary

[D87SMW]

My dad messed with the car earlier in the week while I was at work and had it running great again. He'd changed the coil (for the spare we'd already tried) and reversed the polarity on the terminals. I took it for a drive, it started and stopped as you'd expect.

Went to it the other day and nothing again...

[G Force]

My dad messed with the car earlier in the week while I was at work and had it running great again. He'd changed the coil (for the spare we'd already tried) and reversed the polarity on the terminals. I took it for a drive, it started and stopped as you'd expect.

Went to it the other day and nothing again...

Hi Steve

If you are getting intermittent No Spark it does sound like a bad connection somewhere. Were you able to investigate the wiring to the crank sensor plug. It is coloured black on early cars and blue on later cars it sits down the back of the engine just above the O/S drive shaft inboard CV joint. it is bolted to a bracket that in turn is secured to the gearbox adapter plate by a nut on the end of the lower starter motor bolt.

Cheers, Gary

[D87SMW]

Dragged the car to an auto-electrician's on Thursday and I'm told it has run after simply messing with the black (relay?) box mounted on the chassis behind the ECU, but it has also run after doing this with a few other items.

I've had a call back to say he's traced an open circuit from the crank sensor. I've already changed the sensor on Thursday to no avail, which is why I decided to take it in anyway. What are the chances of an Intermotor part being faulty already?

This is really doing my head in, now...

[Jeff Turbo]

Dragged the car to an auto-electrician's on Thursday and I'm told it has run after simply messing with the black (relay?) box mounted on the chassis behind the ECU, but it has also run after doing this with a few other items.

I've had a call back to say he's traced an open circuit from the crank sensor. I've already changed the sensor on Thursday to no avail, which is why I decided to take it in anyway. What are the chances of an Intermotor part being faulty already?

This is really doing my head in, now...

The black box behind the ecu is a multifunction unit and houses 2 relays
http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=19684

[Jeff Turbo]

You should see it on the top right side of one picture or the bottom right of the other one. A black box about 2inx2inx1in

[Jeff Turbo]

You should see it on the top right side of one picture or the bottom right of the other one. A black box about 2inx2inx1in

Mmm strange it won't show the pics

[G Force]

I've had a call back to say he's traced an open circuit from the crank sensor. I've already changed the sensor on Thursday to no avail, which is why I decided to take it in anyway. What are the chances of an Intermotor part being faulty already?

This is really doing my head in, now...

Hi Steve

I suppose there is always a slim chance the new crank sensor is faulty. I doubt there was anything wrong with the old sensor because the car did run at times with it fitted. You fitted a new sensor and still no start but the garage did have the car running by wiggling wires before they found the open circuit. What is the resistance of the old crank sensor?

The problem still could be a wiring fault at the crank sensor plug or elsewhere. If this is the case the garage will probably fit another sensor, then realise they were mistaken, and look deeper. If I put my cynical hat on knowing what goes on with some garages, If they find a wiring fault they might just fix it charge for a new sensor and no one is the wiser.

Hopefully that won't be the case and they will get it sorted for you Steve.

Cheers, Gary