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Brand New Intake Manifold Gasket leak.Prima 80. Cant Stop The Leak.Videos Inside

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  • Brand New Intake Manifold Gasket leak.Prima 80. Cant Stop The Leak.Videos Inside

    Hi lads. No matter what i do, i cant stop this gasket leaking.


    (Rebuilt engine, skimmed head and block.)
    Prima turbo. Marine version.


    Just Replaced head gasket,still Smokes on start.


    Clears on high revs, smokes a bit at 3000rpm


    BUT


    At 3000rpm+ the intake gasket leakes.prob leaving tiny ammounts of coolant on pistons.and obv sucking air in.*


    Tried 2 new ones now, correct tourqe, brand new Bowman*.


    Cant understand why it wont seal,


    Or is it blowing far to much pressure there?


    Knightmare just wont end.
    https://youtu.be/IaruA0aXiys
    https://youtu.be/x9p7wyQZkWU
    Last edited by jw2000uk; 17th September 2015, 15:07.

  • #2
    at 3k rpm it won't be sucking water in - there will be too much boost pressure for that to happen. That water looks like it is boiling rather than an air leak (Which would likely be much more of a leak).

    If the boost pressure is stable and ok then I'd not worry about that. If you get oily stains around the leak then investigate further.

    The exhaust smoke is very err smokey. And the noise of the turbo is rather loud. Is the turbo ok? After a very brief run if you check the turbo exhaust wheel is it damp with oil (it should be completely powder dry).

    Another thing to check is that after starting from cold and allowed to rev reasonably high to generate boost is there any pressure in the coolant pipes? There shouldn't be. If there is it could be a leaking head gasket but it could also be a leaking intake charge cooler thingy too.

    Lastly is the injection timing correct? This can generate excessive exhaust smoke (and noise!).
    www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
    www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
    www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
      at 3k rpm it won't be sucking water in - there will be too much boost pressure for that to happen. That water looks like it is boiling rather than an air leak (Which would likely be much more of a leak).

      If the boost pressure is stable and ok then I'd not worry about that. If you get oily stains around the leak then investigate further.

      The exhaust smoke is very err smokey. And the noise of the turbo is rather loud. Is the turbo ok? After a very brief run if you check the turbo exhaust wheel is it damp with oil (it should be completely powder dry).

      Another thing to check is that after starting from cold and allowed to rev reasonably high to generate boost is there any pressure in the coolant pipes? There shouldn't be. If there is it could be a leaking head gasket but it could also be a leaking intake charge cooler thingy too.

      Lastly is the injection timing correct? This can generate excessive exhaust smoke (and noise!).
      As always, thanks for the help mate.

      I wrote it kind of wrong lol, it blows air out at 3k, then when i back of the throttle, the water disappears in to the gasket.

      I'll check the heat next time, never thought of the boiling.

      Turbo has just been rebuilt, checked the exhaust side today, no oil..although that was after a 40 min run....

      Also just a tiny spec of oil in turbo to intercooler hose (normal i think)

      Will check the pipes tmrw, one to the thermostat yeah?

      Changed head gasket a few days ago (just incase)
      From this thread http://www.maestro.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=21642

      Will check intercooler o ring seals

      Dti'd the pump before putting engine back in after rebuild, does this need redoing after running the engine in?
      Last edited by jw2000uk; 17th September 2015, 21:45.

      Comment


      • #4
        Just make sure you are using the correct pulley mark for the DTI. There are two on the cars (not sure if they carried them over to the boats). Marked A and B. I think A was for NASP and B for Turbo versions but I'd need to check to be sure.

        Yes a small amount of oil in the intercooler pipe is normal (it will be coming from the engine breather system).
        www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
        www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
        www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
          Just make sure you are using the correct pulley mark for the DTI. There are two on the cars (not sure if they carried them over to the boats). Marked A and B. I think A was for NASP and B for Turbo versions but I'd need to check to be sure.

          Yes a small amount of oil in the intercooler pipe is normal (it will be coming from the engine breather system).
          Yeah its B for turbo. On a previous ***** rebuild from monkeys, they left it at A. Before i new not the slightest thing about engines.took a while to figure out why it wouldnt start.

          Comment


          • #6
            Done a compression test.*


            1 2 & 4 440psi


            3 was 380psi. So a little bit of oil and its up to 495psi.not good.


            On that test it sounds like it pushes pressure up the oil cap.*


            Engine hasnt really been ran in yet, hopefully this will improve. *


            Will check mating faces next for intake.
            Last edited by jw2000uk; 18th September 2015, 12:03.

            Comment


            • #7
              Another question lol.

              Im going to fit a EGT gauge (Got a boost already)

              where is best to drill and fit the EGT sensor?
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Update

                More running in today,*

                Blow by is now at a unacceptable level. Rings on that 3rd cylinder do seem to have failed.*

                Turbo has smoke at high revs off the turbine housing, looks like the crank pressure is stopping the oil returning to the sump quick enough??

                Comment


                • #9
                  On a prima in the car you'd tap the manifold just before the turbo (or use a blanked of EGR port if fitted) the an EMP/EGT gauge.

                  Rings are usually reliable but have these been newly installed?

                  What is the oil breather setup like? On the prima there is a valve to stop oil being dragged out of the sump and dumped into the turbo. It can be quite entertaining if it fails and the oil level is too high (Engine runs away!)
                  www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                  www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                  www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
                    On a prima in the car you'd tap the manifold just before the turbo (or use a blanked of EGR port if fitted) the an EMP/EGT gauge.

                    Rings are usually reliable but have these been newly installed?

                    What is the oil breather setup like? On the prima there is a valve to stop oil being dragged out of the sump and dumped into the turbo. It can be quite entertaining if it fails and the oil level is too high (Engine runs away!)
                    Might be a bit different on mine, I was thinking the exhaust turbine side of the turbo?

                    They have mate, its been 3 years of problems,

                    So it was re-bored (As one cylinder was scratched) then the +0.5mm pistons installed + rings,All NEW.Cranck polished. New bearings throughout.

                    And now this, after a few hours lol



                    I have the PCV breather valve, is that what you mean mate? Im not even sure if that works..

                    Its another few hundred pound to get the boat and engine out again. let alone the work.

                    So im so thankful for any help mate.

                    Starts on the button, no smoke untill after roughly 3krpm. Then its light smoke from exhaust, and smoke off the turbo, with a smell. But no play in turbo,or oil leaks :-(

                    oil psi is idle 30psi and 50-60psi WOT

                    temp is 80-90c

                    heres some pics of the engine, so you can see the routing.














                    The 3rd Cylinder Wall



                    Last edited by jw2000uk; 21st September 2015, 16:10.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here is a video of BlowBy at idle.. https://youtu.be/3QurCIpH9Z8


                      And heres the sound of turbo at idle, should it have a deep sound? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC_V7yyveDw

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That amount of blowby wouldn't worry me to be honest.

                        The turbo so long as it isn't making lots of noise also is ok so long as the exhaust wheel looks dry after a short run.
                        www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                        www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                        www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Is that last pic after the engine has run, i.e. after the second head gasket? If so then I don't see any scoring from a broken ring. I assume you are using some cheapo nasty mineral oil for running the engine in not super synthetic stuff?
                          www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                          www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                          www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Sorry for all the posts!

                            The PCV valve breather should go into the air intake for the turbo (after the air filter). If left the vent to atmosphere it'll make a right oily mess. To see if the PCV valve works then suck on the breather pipe. It should shut the valve. I.e. if the crank case pressure is higher than the breather pipe then the valve should be open. However if the breather pipe pressure is lower than the crank case pressure then the valve should shut (to stop the engine sucking air/oil out of the sump). The valves usually fail open simply resulting in slightly higher than normal oil consumption.

                            If there is any oil on the turbo then under load this will get hot and burn the oil off causing the stink until it has all gone. If its not done a few hours running then I'd not worry about that bit yet. Turbo under load will hit 400 degrees C fairly easily.

                            I assume there is no route for boosted air to get into the crankcase via a breather? If so then check that the breather has a one way valve on it that is fitted the right way and working. (That would cause excess crank case pressure / blowby/ oil leaks / oil consumption/ exhaust smoke).
                            www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                            www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                            www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
                              Is that last pic after the engine has run, i.e. after the second head gasket? If so then I don't see any scoring from a broken ring. I assume you are using some cheapo nasty mineral oil for running the engine in not super synthetic stuff?

                              Christ, ive only just noticed you posts mate, sorry bout that.

                              It is yeah, and theres no signs of scoring atall. But its 10psi over the allowed psi drop.

                              Was using expensive vds rated (volvos own high end spec) mineral oil. Should i of used synthetic mate?

                              Comment

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