Brand New Intake Manifold Gasket leak.Prima 80. Cant Stop The Leak.Videos Inside

[Guest]

Sorry for all the posts!

The PCV valve breather should go into the air intake for the turbo (after the air filter). If left the vent to atmosphere it'll make a right oily mess. To see if the PCV valve works then suck on the breather pipe. It should shut the valve. I.e. if the crank case pressure is higher than the breather pipe then the valve should be open. However if the breather pipe pressure is lower than the crank case pressure then the valve should shut (to stop the engine sucking air/oil out of the sump). The valves usually fail open simply resulting in slightly higher than normal oil consumption.

If there is any oil on the turbo then under load this will get hot and burn the oil off causing the stink until it has all gone. If its not done a few hours running then I'd not worry about that bit yet. Turbo under load will hit 400 degrees C fairly easily.

I assume there is no route for boosted air to get into the crankcase via a breather? If so then check that the breather has a one way valve on it that is fitted the right way and working. (That would cause excess crank case pressure / blowby/ oil leaks / oil consumption/ exhaust smoke).

Ok, on that bases the pcv seems to be fine then, ive lost the original tube from it to the turbo, and am using a hose (does kink) but i cant see this being the cause of my probs?

Ive got a EGT to fit now, just not sure where it goes on mine lol. On the exhaust turbo turbine manifold?

Dont think this has a breather, except for the pcv mate.

[Guest]

Also. A update.

As ive spent so much on it, ive taken the engine apart. And will get that 3rd cylinder re-honed + new rings. And try again

Also, ive picked up a turbo head. (As mine was over skimmed)

And will rebuild the head ive just bought.

[E_T_V]

For running in use some cheap mineral oil. If you don't let the rings bed in properly then they won't seal well and oil consumption will always be high. Once run in then you can swap to some semi or fully synthetic oil to suit. People are tempted to treat new engines too nicely and fill with exotic oils and light loads. To run in properly the engine will need full load and mineral oils (obviously not full load right from the first turn of the key though - gradually build up to it with varying load and rpm's over an hour or so.

If the PCV valve kinks then the crankcase will pressurise and cause excess smoke/oil leaks. This is one to sort out I reckon!. The vent is the only way that blow-by can escape (other than unintentional leaks or blowing the oil cap off!).

Heads are the same for turbo and NASP. Pay particular attention to the waterway around number 4 cylinder as this erodes commonly with a slow leak head gasket issue.

EGT can go anywhere suitable - not sure on your setup I'm afraid - on the car it is easy!. EGT is usually between manifold and turbo where the temps are hottest (800C under heavy load). Temps after the turbo are a fair bit lower.

[Guest]

For running in use some cheap mineral oil. If you don't let the rings bed in properly then they won't seal well and oil consumption will always be high. Once run in then you can swap to some semi or fully synthetic oil to suit. People are tempted to treat new engines too nicely and fill with exotic oils and light loads. To run in properly the engine will need full load and mineral oils (obviously not full load right from the first turn of the key though - gradually build up to it with varying load and rpm's over an hour or so.

If the PCV valve kinks then the crankcase will pressurise and cause excess smoke/oil leaks. This is one to sort out I reckon!. The vent is the only way that blow-by can escape (other than unintentional leaks or blowing the oil cap off!).

Heads are the same for turbo and NASP. Pay particular attention to the waterway around number 4 cylinder as this erodes commonly with a slow leak head gasket issue.

EGT can go anywhere suitable - not sure on your setup I'm afraid - on the car it is easy!. EGT is usually between manifold and turbo where the temps are hottest (800C under heavy load). Temps after the turbo are a fair bit lower.

Thanks again for the help mate.

Thats how i ran it in tbf, as i read theres a small margine to get the rings to seat.

Will get longer PCV pipework .

Will clean it all up, and check bud, prob pay to get it pressure tested, and skimmed if more then 10thou difference (as theres meat left on this one)

Dont think theres anywhere pre-turbo it can go. But i'll research more


All in all, would the pcv or something simple,Cause the 3rd cyl to be 60psi down than the other 3 wich are perfect?

Will compression test before i fire her up next time, see what its like after another set of new rings.

[robert1]

did you ever get this fixed? i know it is a bit late now but it sounds like the blanking plate for the brake vacuum pump has been fitted with bolts which are a little to long and are squashing the tappets. i think this happens if you fit the fuel lift pump bolt to the vacuum pump.

[Guest]

Update.

New turbo, head etc.

Fitted a new pipe to PCV.

And when its connected to the turbo (via catch can), it will suck oil up big time.

But when i suck a fair few times on the tube it does shut??

Trying to source a new one just incase

[Guest]

did you ever get this fixed? i know it is a bit late now but it sounds like the blanking plate for the brake vacuum pump has been fitted with bolts which are a little to long and are squashing the tappets. i think this happens if you fit the fuel lift pump bolt to the vacuum pump.

Hi mate, 2 through bolts on top. And smaller ones underneath is something to check though

[robert1]

hello, i had a look at the pcv fitted to our montego and it seems ok. if i block the sump side hole and suck and blow on the air intake hole i can hear it opening and closing. i am guessing if the diaphragm had failed air would have been blowing out the little hole in the top.