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Carburettor, autochoke or fuel ecu problemM

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  • Carburettor, autochoke or fuel ecu problemM

    I have been having fuel problem issues for some time now and as i am not gifted with the mechical knowledge i have always left it to my garage. It started sometime ago while i was away on holiday. Their solution was to disconnect the autochoke. I then ran the car withoutchoke and it never really cause me any issues once started. After a time the temperature gauge stopped working. That said if it felt like it would work and then on occasions suddenly the high temp light would flash go to max temp on gauge and then go straight back down and wiould return to no reading. All the time the car has never overheated and the fan engages as it should. The car has not had the use it should have over the last few years but when i used it last year i broke down twice. It wasnt maintainig the revs so the minute i tok my foot off the accelerator it just dropped to nothing. The idle mix was then adjusted and all semed ok. On getting home i asked my garage to look at it, they reattached the autochoke and said it seemed to be working ok. The car didnt get any further useand i got the car out the other day after about 8 months. The car seemed to be working ok until i was at a set of lights s3t off 1st and 2nd gear making good progress then on puting into 3rd it sudenlt didnt like it. It was like i had taken my foot of the clutch too quickly. I hadnt. I procced further down the road again whenthe car suddenly didnt seem to be running as it shouls and i went down the gears until it just stopped. I enede up being recoverd by the rac as i did not feelit was safe to proceed on a very fast moving road. I explained the previous isues.he took the carburettor off cleaned it but said the float did not appeared to be sticking a little. He advised that this should be the starting point. I took the car to the garage today andthry said it is running rich and feel the carburettor should be refurbished.
    Last edited by The Professor; 22nd July 2020, 18:12.

  • #2
    Is this the problem you had before glyn? If left for a period of time the carb will crud up with old fuel. I wouldn't say it needs refurbishment but just the internals cleaned with carb cleaner. The auto choke problem may also be linked with the temp gauge not working properly as its linked to that system
    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 22nd July 2020, 18:21.
    1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
    1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
    1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
    2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
    2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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    • #3
      Yes its the same issue jeff. The garage dont want to strip the carb down they want to send it away. I dont have a problem having it done but not if it isnt needed. I am assuming they have tried cleaning it but dont want to strip it down. Their conclusion was refurb.

      where is the fuel ecu in the 1987 turbo. Is it behind the glovebox? If so do you have to take the glovebox out.

      by replacing the fuel ecu might it solve the autochoke and in turn the carb?

      if the car is sent for refurb do you know if the autochoke would go with it and be inluded in the refurb?


      its good to talk to people who understand our cars. Where should i start? The gsrage are just considering refurb.

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      • #4
        Stripping the carb and cleaning is quite a simple job but if you're not mechanically minded then yes send it off, I am surprised you're mechanics can't do this. The temp gauge problem could be a few things and not just the fuel ecu that's located in the top of the glove box, undo the two screws on the top of it and it'll drop down. Could also be the coolant thermistor or a couple of other things. I'm trying to sort my sons temp gauge problems atm on his turbo as it's affecting the auto choke. You should ask the company whos refurbing the carb if they also need the auto choke so as to replace the O rings from the carb to it.
        Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 22nd July 2020, 18:55.
        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
        1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
        2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
        2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks jeff,
          the reason i wanted direction was that refurb will be a minimum of £300 and will be a turn around of 8 to 10 weeks.
          i wish i knew more to do with the mechanics.at least i can quiz them a bit more about what they have done.
          it seems the car wont be going very far this year either, in total only 18 miles this year.
          After 30 years of ownership and for a little while now i have been thinking seriously about selling. It need to get the issue sorted and maybe i might feel differently.
          Last edited by The Professor; 22nd July 2020, 19:16.

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          • #6
            Burlen carb services are good glyn, and yes you'll have to wait that long for any carb company to refurb it. Still believe it only needs the internals cleaned though as I know its low mileage. Thinking of selling? Blimey that's a turn up, would all depend on what sort of price you would want for it as its not running properly atm would depend on a quick sale or not mate
            Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 22nd July 2020, 19:37.
            1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
            1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
            1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
            2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
            2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

            Comment


            • #7
              As Jeff says, it sounds as though it could be something relatively simple, it might be worth trying to find a garage/mechanic that is more familiar with more 'modern' SU carbs. Most mechanics that learned their trade after the mid 1990's won't be too interested in carburettors and the 'vintage' mechanics are a bit wary of the new fangled electronically controlled carbs. As already mentioned, if the problems are down to it running rich it may just need new o rings on the auto choke and/or a sticky float valve replacing, these parts are not expensive. The £300 full rebuild will most likely involve replacing a lot of parts that are unlikely to be worn. Could be worth checking the wire to the coolant temperature sensor before heading for the ecu, the wire is fairly thin and may have become brittle with age, if it has snapped off it'd make choke stay on/temp gauge stay off and if it dropped onto the engine could send the gauge up/put the light on. Might not be the most likely cause, but worth checking , as it is the cheapest (1.5p for a new spade connector) and easiest.....good luck

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              • #8
                Originally posted by The Professor View Post
                by replacing the fuel ecu might it solve the autochoke and in turn the carb?
                the car is sent for refurb do you know if the autochoke would go with it and be inluded in the refurb?
                its good to talk to people who understand our cars. Where should i start? The gsrage are just considering refurb.
                Hi Professor
                The way that you have described what the temp gauge is doing, from experience it does sound more likely to be the fuel ECU that is faulty. Yes there is a small chance the sensor might be at fault but to prove it you would have to change it or check its resistance when the fault was present. If there was a break in the wiring, the temp gauge would default to reading a quarter on the gauge. A short in the wiring would read overheating on the gauge all the time. Having said all that fixing the ECU will solve the gauge and the running whilst on choke, it will also help to an extent with the cars idle speed control but I would say the poor running is a separate issue. Just for starters is there any chance that it could be just the fuel in the tank that has gone off with the limited running?
                Cheers, Gary

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