Later Efi fuel pressure regulator AHU 2949

[Doctordiesel77]

Sounds as though you've had a busy day! If you still have the driver's side mirror off it may be worth checking that there is 12v at the green wire on the heating element, it is fed from fuse f6, which also feeds the switch, if there is no power there then it could be a problem with main feed to the...

[Doctordiesel77]

Probably worth having a look inside the door and giving it all some lubrication, if the mechanism in the latch gets too stiff it can result in the button not working, getting the door cards off with the doors shut is very difficult!

[Doctordiesel77]

Cheers! I think I've still got it, I'll have a look and let you know
John

Hi,Just reading up on your EFi rebuild, very comprehensive and visually pleasing to read, thanks for posting.

Noticed you found an earlier tensioner for your car which is what I am on the look out for so if you want to sell it I would be a buyer.
Thanks

Pat.

[Doctordiesel77]

Can be caused by 1) the door mechanism being too stiff for the actuator to move, 2) bad connections in the door multiplugs, or 3) failed actuators. If the lock buttons on the doors that don't work are harder to lift than the ones on the working doors, them most likely 1), but this may have led to 3)....

[Doctordiesel77]

It can be a bit fiddly getting the switch out as the wires tend to pull it into the wrong position for getting it through the hole. Iirc the panel surrounding the switch is just held in by two screws, may be worth taking it off so that you can get at both sides. I had a look at a mirror switch and the...

[Doctordiesel77]

A slightly less drastic solution might be one of these cheapo pullers from ebay, they are aimed at VW owners, as their arms have a very shallow taper and can be pigs to remove, should do a Montego one quite easily. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397727141922...

[Doctordiesel77]

I got my switch to come back to life by switching it on and off/ moving it around several times which must have cleaned the grime off, other problems I had were bad connections in the big multiplug for the door electrics which is in the footwell beside the bottom hinge and bad connections in the little...

[Doctordiesel77]

If you put the nut on a couple of threads then hinge the arm back so that it is perpindicular to the windscreen and wiggle it sideways it usually loosens obstinate splines. Once it is loose hinge it back down before taking the nut off....

[Doctordiesel77]

No problem, the arms are easier to get off than a lot of modern cars, so not a bad job to d usually.

[Doctordiesel77]

If there is no excessive play in the mechanism and the driver's side one parks correctly then it probably just needs the arm adjusting on the splines, if you have a Haynes manual, or similar it has a section on adjusting them, if not I can scan the page in the workshop manual.

[Doctordiesel77]

Hopefully shouldn't be too long, but still a few bits & pieces like doors to do which may take a while...If emissions misbehave I'll look Gary's post up, cheers!...

[Doctordiesel77]

As far as I know it is parallel on all models....

[Doctordiesel77]

These are now hard to find, but are the same as those used on the Rover V8, which TVR used. The similar looking but much cheaper ones seem to be 3 bar ones. The TVR ones are available from Motaclan: https://motaclan.com/product/fuel-pr...171adj_3033_0/
There...

[Doctordiesel77]

I think it might be either this https://motaclan.com/product/fuel-pr...re0208_3048_0/ or the adjustable one that they also sell https://motaclan.com/product/fuel-pr...171adj_3033_0/ The Volvo ones and all the other similar ones are 3 bar,...

[Doctordiesel77]

It depends which panels, I've used 1mm, 1.2mm and 2mm, the original steel used by Rover was high strength, so if you are using mild steel it is a good plan to use the next thickest size. As far as I remember most of the original metal was less than 1mm, but the pillars and 'chassis' were thicker. I...

[Doctordiesel77]

Rover just said to use silicone sealant, any decent RTV silicon will do the job, the temperature of the cam cover won't get much over 100 centigrade unless something has gone horribly wrong. As far as I know any silicone sealant (even ordinary bathroom sealant!) will withstand this sort of temperat...