Rover 45 Connoisseur TD

I have just bought myself a TD 45, it's a truly lovely car with full leather heated seats, headlamp washers, aircon, electric sunroof, alloys etc etc.

The only catch is, it doesn't run!

I bought it from a friend who had been using it trouble free for the last two years, last month it just refused to start and that was that.

It turns over, but doesn't fire, won't start on tow either.

Apparently he had it plugged into a diagnostics machine and it indicated 3 errors, all leading to the injector pump - but this was done by a bit of a monkey mechanic so i am not 100% convinced!

Is there anything i can check myself, something that may have been overlooked before i go buying a pump?

Thanks in advance

[D87SMW]

Sounds like the pump, it'll be the Bosch 0470004005. If you can get it off the car I can have it tested at £55+vat, which would be waived if you have it repaired but you're looking at £475+vat...

[Oli]

Is that the later higher pressure pump?

[RalphG]

Check the fuel shut off solenoid. This is the most likely cause of the problem and is only £40, rather than £1200 for the whole pump!

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003298 Item 2

[Captain Slow]

There are a few injector pumps on eBay, if it's the pump and you're handy with the spanners (IIRC you are) it could work out cheaper.

[sandersonjam]

Worth checking the wiring loom has`nt broken,my mates 220d did this and the engine cover had rubbed through the loom at the front.

[countrydude]

Sadly quite common for the later pumps to fail, you could check if the pump is delivering any fuel at all by cracking each nut off the top of the injector, keep the bonnet open and see if any diesel spurts from the top of injector? Dont remove the nut completly and stand well clear to anyone watching as diesel is v high pressure.

It is worth getting the ecu checked as it sometimes is at fault.

The later fly by wire pumps don't have a stop soleniod, if you can get a 2nd hand pump try fitting it as if you have some experience with mechanics it isn't too difficult. You just need a torque wrench and to know the timing procedures.

If you are going to go down the new pump route you may as well get the injectors done at the same time. But realistically you are in the realms of buying a ZR diesel money there.

No doubt Dan will be along in a bit with his usual pearls of wisdom!

[Captain Slow]

Silly query but would bits from a 200, 400, or 600 diesel fit or did they modify the L series before this?

[russ10]

Silly question is the belt ok we had lots snap when i was at the dealer.

[countrydude]

I think most 600's had the later pump so you do have a number of models to look at, certainly 400's 600's 25's 45's Zr's etc.

I think I'm right in saying there is only one pump that was fully electronic fitted to the L series so they'd be easy to tell apart.

If it were me I'd go to a yard, find a low mileage car and remove the pump myself. That way you can be sure that the pump wasn't stored dry and all the seals were still oiled and well.

Best place to ask is over on Mgrover.org for the L series as there is a v good derv section over there. Lots of members, a good bunch and very helpful too.

[Guest]

if the pump has been off at some point by this 'monkey mechnanic' make sure he has timed it up correctly.

I have had l series diesel timing tensioners come loose which give a slack belt and the pump slowly goes out of time and therefore cuts out or just will not restart.

This of course doesnt effect the engine timing as its done on a different belt

[E_T_V]

Ok back to basics first.

Check both cambelts are intact. They are under most stress when starting so this is when they often break. The belts on the 45 are changed twice as often as the earlier L series (probably as these had a tendancy to break too!)

Next check the timing. Insert the pin in the flywheel (6.5mm I think), and check the one also goes into the fuel pump (9mm?) If not then the timing is out and it'll never start

If the timing is correct then loosen the injector feed uniion and standing well clear get someone to crank the engine. Fuel should spurt out in strong pulses. If nothing or just a weak dribble then the pump is broken internally and needs replacing (either the ECU on the pump or the actual pump head)

There are 4 types of fuel pump on the L series.

The VP27? as fitted to the 200 and 400 non-intercooled engines (and civics too)
The VP37 as fitted to the 200/400/600 intercooled cars (and the accord)
The VP37-?? A higher pressure version as fitted to the early non TD freelanders.
The VP30 as fitted to the 25/45/zr/zs diesels.

The last type is the least reliable.

The VP30 fails in 3 or 4 main ways.
1. Pump ECU (inside the pump)
2. Pump head failure (inside the pump)
3. Timing solenoid failure (fitted to the pump and can be changed - causes rough/noisy running)
4. Fuel quantity solenoid failure (not sure if these can be replaced easily or not - there is no stop solenoid on these pumps)

[RalphG]

The difference in the belt change interval is due to the change between manual and automatic tensioner.

[E_T_V]

The changeover is when they swapped the tensioner type on the fuel pump belt I think. The cambelt always got an auto tensioner I think.

[Oli]

Can anyone assist with this?

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...09#post5181009

Taken advise from Dan & Phil - through facebook admittedly so i may not have explained myself properly - now posted on above link so hopefully it is easier reading, just wondered if anyone else had any ideas?

Thanks !