Service parts needed to put Maestro Turbo back on road?

[Andy]

As title, just need a bit of help sourcing parts and deciding what parts to buy. It’s been off the road for 6-7 years brakes need bleeding and I think the engine is only running on 3 cylinders probably just ht leads. My mechanic friend is going to do the work just going to buy everything I need ready for him just to get on with. What would you recommend changing/servicing and any links to where I can buy them from would be a great help. Then I will put it in for its MOT.

[Guest]

Dizzy cap
Rotor Arm
New Plugs
New Plug Leads
Good battery
Possibly carb service kit.
Oil and Filter
New Brake Pads/Shoes
Brake Disk's (if needed)
Oil Filler Cap
Expansion tank Pressure relief cap
Fuel Filter
Brake fluid change
Tyres
Lots of WD40 and Plus Gas/Penetrating oil.

Patience.
Change Cam belt (handy to do water pump at same time.)
Alternator and Power steering belt's
Check Crank sensor wires for corrosion / abraision damage.
Clean all connections in engine bay loom.

Flush out all old coolant (several flush's) and replace with good quality new.

Check and clean all earth connections.

[AndyB]

Think I'd add change the brake fluid if it's been stood that long - it will have deteriorated and this lowers the boiling point for one. I knocked up a vacuum bleed kit using a jar and the hoover - can be put together in an hour and saves legs and your master cylinder ! Also you can do it as a 'one-man' operation. Two bottles should be enough.

But if you've got a mechanic doing the work for you - hopefully he's got something equivalent.

Also remove the washer bottle and give it a real clean-up inside - the accumulated dirt / stuff will go and block your washer jets !

I also did same with the header tank - mine was really dirty inside. a clean header tank will give the coolant flushing process a good start

Comments please from others on the petrol tank and old fuel. I flushed mine out to clean it and get any water out that will sit at the bottom - but the tank was out already ! PS fuel filter ?

[carfix]

I also have a MG Maestro which has been stored for several years.

The above lists look like a good starting point.

I had a lot of problems with my brakes. In particular the front calipers had to be removed because the pistons had seized up. I replaced these with reconditioned units.

I would certainly look at removing the old fuel and then flushing with new. Old fuel has a very peculiar smell.

I had the injectors cleaned by a specialist (expensive!) to remove the gummed up deposits but you can remove a lot of the goo by doing it yourself.

[Guest]

Carfix, if you need a hand with anything ......

Im only "over the road"(M4) in Westbury.

Mal.

[Andy]

Cheers for the lists there is a few things I cant find or would like help on below.



Dizzy cap/Rotor Arm (Can’t find these for turbo anyone have any links for any for sale)

New Plugs (Is there much difference in performance like suggested from the cheep £10 plugs and the more expensive plugs below)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2906000102...84.m1423.l2649

New Plug Leads
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3210159422...84.m1423.l2649

Good battery-ok

Possibly carb service kit. (Ail see what my mechanic says when he’s looked at it)

Oil and Filter Fuel Filter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2907137540...84.m1423.l2649

New Brake Pads/Shoes (paw kit planned)
Brake Disk's (if needed)

Oil Filler Cap (Can’t find these for turbo anyone have any links for any for sale)

Expansion tank Pressure relief cap Arm (Can’t find these for turbo anyone have any links for any for sale)

Brake fluid change (what is best suggested to use)

Tyres-ok

Change Cam belt (handy to do water pump at same time.)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1108929194...84.m1423.l2649

Alternator and Power steering belt’s (Can’t find these for turbo anyone have any links for any for sale)


Check Crank sensor wires for corrosion / abrasion damage. Clean all connections in engine bay loom. Flush out all old coolant (several flush's) and replace with good quality new. Check and clean all earth connections (will be done)

[Guest]

Expansion cap/dizzy cap/oil filler cap/ rotor arm/ alternator/ alty/ps belts etc are all standard 2.0 efi.

Turbo specific items are a short list, and essentially the expensive items (hopefully) rarely needed.

General servicing items are essentially identical to 2.0 efi, apart from oil filter which is slightly longer and a different part number although a 2.0 efi one can be used.

As for plugs, some have claimed better running with performance and others claim to have seen no improvement. best to read the archives and make up your own mind.

but I certainly would'nt by "cheapy" parts. unless genuine old stock.

[Andy]

Cheers for that. It makes life more easy seems I can get most of the service parts I need on Rimmer Bros.

[Andy]

One more thing. What:

Brake fluid-
Coolant-
Oil-

Do you recomend I get and in what quantities?

Cheers Andy

[Andy]

Well I am doing quite well. Can’t find a expansion tank pressure relief cap for sale, anyone know where I can get one and does anyone know the part number for the Maestro Turbo water pump as they seems a few? Although my mechanic will know can anyone recommend what:

Brake fluid-
Coolant-
Oil-

They use in there MG Maestro just so I can get it all ready for him just to get on with. Anyone else add anything to the list below of what could need to be changed? What about gearbox oil? Cheers Andy

[Andy]

Anyone? I presume what oil to use is quite important.

[Guest]

I can find out tomorrow for you

[philippope]

I use Comma semi synthetic for the engine as well as the gearbox. I believe the original spec was 10w40 oil in both.

[Guest]

Anyone? I presume what oil to use is quite important.

10w40 semi sy oil is standard, but 5w50 full syn can be used (often called a track day oil)

Brake fliud is DOT 4

Coolant is the older 3 year interval green type (austin rover speced replacement every 2 years though) If the system is completely flushed out and i mean completely then 5 year interval pink/orange coolant can be used (OAT type)

Gearbox was speced as 10w40 but i would advise MG Rover full syn MTF94 is used (red in colour and was standard fill from about 1998 on all models with pg1 gearbox)
Land rover do a mtf 94 oil which is yellow, this can be used also but is only semi syn

enjoy your turbo.......................... i wish i still have my ones

[Guest]

I had the injectors cleaned by a specialist (expensive!) to remove the gummed up deposits but you can remove a lot of the goo by doing it yourself.

injectors? on a turbo?