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Carburettor & Vacuum setup on 1.6s v/plas auto 1986

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  • Carburettor & Vacuum setup on 1.6s v/plas auto 1986

    Hi,
    I am a newbie to the forum although I have owned Maestro Vplas since 2008.
    I recently bought a clove brown vplas C818 MMW. It has a low mileage of 56890 miles apparently. I drove it back from Salisbury and it had some hesitation at times and refused to accelerate until I backed off the accelerator. When I first looked in the engine compartment I saw the carburettor & manifold vacuum setup has been seriously modified. The vacuum switch has been removed and the 2 rubber tubes to the carb bunged up the. The T piece which goes to the manifold is present but disconnected to the air filter, and plugged at the other end. A single tube went to the back of the carb and the vacuum from the ECU went direct to the vacuum switch inlet. Needless to say the carb has been setup quite differently to the correct one. Fast idle doesn't appear to be set properly.
    I tried resetting it to what I deduced from the BL workshop manual and your forum reconnecting the vacuum switch etc; It became difficult to start, but then when I test ran it up the A5 it had lost it's hesitancy, but replaced it with under power. I read about the ORFCO valve and bought one & when Inspected the old one it was indeed sticking in the down position i.e closed so that should have helped to cure some part of the problems, but the car is now refusing to start
    What I need to know but can't find in either haynes or BL manual is what is the full route of the manifold vacuum tubes, and what is the route of the carburettor ECU (advance/retard) vacuum tubes? Can anyone tell me please what this is?
    Next I inadvertently failed to note the connections to the ORFCO valve. Is the correct connection critical to it's operation? I know they are white/ grey & green and one goes to the ECU?
    Any help will be greatly appreciated
    Thank You.
    Paul.

  • #2
    Hi & welcome to the forum.
    Regarding the vacuum pipes on the 1,6 s series. There should be a long thin vacuum tube with a T junction close to one end. The T junction connects to the small vacuum tapping on the carb and the elbow connects to the vacuum switch, the longer part of the tube connects to the ECU.

    The tube from the vacuum tapping on the manifold connects to the smallest hole of the thermal control valve in the plenum chamber, and the pipe from the air temperature control flap in the air filter box assembly connects to the larger holed connector of the thermal control valve.

    If the vacuum switch was not fitted I would suspect the diaphragm has failed and you need to acquire a new one (LZX 2292). To test it Remove vacuum switch and test diaphragm for any air leaks. (If you suck on the vacuum connection you should NOT be able to suck air through) refitting a faulty switch will be one of the reasons why the engine is harder to start.

    The wiring orientation of the ORFCO valve is not critical to its operation, but I would recommend you leave it disconnected.

    Once you have the vacuum switch renewed and the pipes connected correctly have a look in the frequently asked questions to see tips on tuning the s series.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by G Force View Post
      Hi & welcome to the forum.
      Regarding the vacuum pipes on the 1,6 s series. There should be a long thin vacuum tube with a T junction close to one end. The T junction connects to the small vacuum tapping on the carb and the elbow connects to the vacuum switch, the longer part of the tube connects to the ECU.

      The tube from the vacuum tapping on the manifold connects to the smallest hole of the thermal control valve in the plenum chamber, and the pipe from the air temperature control flap in the air filter box assembly connects to the larger holed connector of the thermal control valve.

      If the vacuum switch was not fitted I would suspect the diaphragm has failed and you need to acquire a new one (LZX 2292). To test it Remove vacuum switch and test diaphragm for any air leaks. (If you suck on the vacuum connection you should NOT be able to suck air through) refitting a faulty switch will be one of the reasons why the engine is harder to start.

      The wiring orientation of the ORFCO valve is not critical to its operation, but I would recommend you leave it disconnected.

      Once you have the vacuum switch renewed and the pipes connected correctly have a look in the frequently asked questions to see tips on tuning the s series.
      Thank you G Force I will follow your instructions very helpful as the vacuum connections were all over the place.
      Paul.

      Comment

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