Starting and running issues

[Guest]

Hi everybody. Help please?
I bought J259 KLU in April. It is a 1600 petrol, and it has run perfectly up until a few weeks ago. It has always started smoothly even when left for several weeks.
Recently sometimes it will start and run smoothly from cold. Sometimes it will start smoothly and then run really rough for a while and then even out. Sometimes it will start really roughly and need holding at a fast idle until it has warmed up and then gradually the roughness smoothes out. A couple of times it has fired and then refused to run at all. Yesterday and today being such occasions. The engine fires but will not pick up. It almost feels as if the timing is out
I have checked, cleaned and lubed the auto choke O rings, checked the vacuum pipes. I have cleaned the contacts inside the dizzy, and cleaned and sprayed the electrical connections to the choke and the computer with WD40. I even tried changing the computer from a Mayfair, which came with a load of parts when I bought the car. But it wouldn't even fire at all with that one.
I was hoping to be able to run it as my regular run about and have sold my other car, so I am stuck for the moment.
Any thoughts will be gratefully received and acted upon.
Thanks.
Geoff

[E_T_V]

Have you checked/changed the rotor arm and HT leads. (and checked the colour of the spark plugs).

Also check the vacuum switch and the ORFCO valve as both are sources of problems.

I'd be tempted to fit some new O rings (check the above) and give it a good re-tune.

[BIGDAVE]

as post before ht leads try a new set it no difference its not them

[Maestro Mad]

engine running rough

Hi Geoff, I had a similar problem last year and like you I tried all the most obvious remedies but still no luck, until I closely scrutinised the inside of the dizzy cap and found the carbon brush had cracked and deteriorated to the degree that it was only presenting a sporadic contact with the rotor arm,replacing the dizzy cap with a new one cured the problem.hope this helps.

[Guest]

Hi.
Thank you for the responses to my problem.
I have fitted new plugs and leads which did not solve the issue. (The old plugs were very black and wet.) After checking for a spark with the plug removed, no spark, I then fitted the plug to the end of the king lead. Again no spark. So I went into the parts that came with the car and found and fitted a second hand coil, dizzy cap, and rotor arm. The engine then fired very briefly but would not run, and then would not fire. I have disconnected the wire to what I believe to be the ORFCO valve. It again fired smoothly but refused to actually run. Turning the engine over after that resulted in occasional firing but no running.
I am not sure what the vacuum switch looks like or where it is located.
I am waiting to here about some O rings, through Ollie, who is liaising with the club spares person.
Ollie is being very helpful and supportive.
Once again I thank you all for your help.
Geoff

[BIGDAVE]

try checking the vacume pipes from the carburette as the rubber tubes do split and deteriate.halford do freash vacumme tubing.

[G Force]

Hi Geoff

Sorry to hear about you starting problems. The spark plugs being wet and black points to either the engine over-fuelling or no spark / weak spark or intermittent spark.

You have checked for a spark with the plugs removed and found no spark. As long as you made sure the spark plug body was getting a good earth through the engine block we can assume this is the main problem. I take it that when you mention “old plugs” you renewed the spark plugs. I note you have substituted another ECU with no change but was this, the ECU under the bonnet or the ECU on the glove-box upper panel?

I would suggest you try to get hold of a known good programmed ignition ECU, the one fitted under the bonnet. I would try to use a leaded ECU ADU9334 or AUU1325 because many of the unleaded ECU’s NNN10001 or NNN10009 were problematic. You can still use unleaded fuel as long as you don’t experience any engine pinking. I find in most cases you won’t have pinking problems with the later 1.6 engines because most of the engine issues had been ironed out by then.

You won’t have an ORFCO valve or a vacuum switch fitted to your 91 / 92 MY car if the original carb is still fitted. The original carb should have a red label on the dash pot and a blanked off casting where the ORFCO valve would normally be fitted to the carb body. You might possibly have disconnected the manifold heater switch on the inlet manifold thinking it was the ORFCO valve?

If the car starts and runs with a known good ECU you should still go ahead and change the choke O-rings as you could have reduced their integrity when you removed the stepper motor.

Regards, G Force.

[Guest]

Hi,
I have had several replies now to my post and I thank all of you for your time and suggestions.
In reply specifically to G Force, I believe that the plug was well earthed. I clamped it to a bracket that was attached to the block. Yes I have fitted new plugs, and HT leads, and a second-hand coil. The engine fires but only very briefly and will not run.
I may have made a mistake with the under bonnet ECU, because I just unplugged it and plugged in the replacement without disconnecting the battery earth terminal. After all the fiddling about, it was only then that I read the Haines manual which says that you should disconnect the earth terminal before disconnection. I did not realise that there was another one inside the car. So I don't know whether I have caused myself further problems.
How do I go about programming the ignition ECU?
Up until now I have had no running problems using unleaded fuel. There has never been a pinking problem, but occasionally it will run on when the engine is switched off.
I have just had a look and there is no label on the dash pot, and I cannot see any blanked off area. The two wires (one white and the other green) go to a metal cylinder which seems to be integral with a black plastic unit fitted on the opposite side to the throttle linkage. I will change te O rings as soon as I can get new ones.
In reply to BIGDAVE, I will buy some new vacuum tubing as soon as I can and replace all of it.
Regards, Geoff

[G Force]

Hi,
I may have made a mistake with the under bonnet ECU, because I just unplugged it and plugged in the replacement without disconnecting the battery earth terminal. After all the fiddling about, it was only then that I read the Haines manual which says that you should disconnect the earth terminal before disconnection. I did not realise that there was another one inside the car. So I don't know whether I have caused myself further problems.

Hi again Geoff.

Although it is good practice to have the battery disconnected to unplug some electronic devices. it is unlikely that you will have caused any additional problems unplugging the ignition ECU without disconnecting the earth lead.

How do I go about programming the ignition ECU?.

Sorry if I have misled you. The type of ignition system fitted to your car is called "Programmed Ignition Control". The system is not re-programmable in service.

Up until now I have had no running problems using unleaded fuel. There has never been a pinking problem, but occasionally it will run on when the engine is switched off..

Again I am just pointing out the possible consequence of fitting an early leaded ECU instead of using the correct unleaded ECU.

There are performance and reliability advantages to using an early leaded ECU over the original ECU. I was suggesting the cause of no spark and intermittent spark you are having could be due to a faulty ignition ECU.

I have just had a look and there is no label on the dash pot, and I cannot see any blanked off area. The two wires (one white and the other green) go to a metal cylinder which seems to be integral with a black plastic unit fitted on the opposite side to the throttle linkage. I will change te O rings as soon as I can get new ones.

here below are pictures of an ORFCO valve and a vacuum switch. It could be that you have only the the orfco valve fitted. A photo of your carb set up would confirm.

[Guest]

Hi everyone.
A further update.
This afternoon with the help of the magnificent Ollie, we went through as much of the tips as we could and tracked the problem to an intermittent spark. Holding the king lead close to the engine and cranking the engine we got a strong spark, but it would only light up for two or three turns and then disappear for two turns. After checking the coil output and input voltages, we have determined that the most likely cause of the problem is the ignition ECU. I have ordered a "factory reconditioned" from ebay which should be here in early new year. I will keep you posted as and when, and once again thank you all for your help.
Regards
Geoff

[Guest]

Starting and running problems.

Eureka.
We ordered a reconditioned ECU through Ebay from Inracing of Nottingham for £32.50 including VAT and delivery, with a delivery time from 1/1/15-5/1/15. It arrived today nicely packaged. What service. I fitted it to the car in two minutes and lo and behold it started first throw of the engine, warmed up nicely, and continued to tick over evenly. It revved up on choke and from tick-over well. All that remains now is to take it out for a test drive, but I am confident that all will be ok.
Thanks again for all the in-put.
Wishing all a Happy Christmas
Geoff