Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1.3 headache!!! Won't run!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1.3 headache!!! Won't run!

    I'm at breaking point with my Maestro, he's now been off the road 7 weeks and I feel like I've tried everything!

    All started with an intermittent misfire that gradually got worse despite:
    Plugs, leads, coil, cap and rotor, inline filter, stripped and cleaned the carb three times (manual choke)
    Tried plug gaps .35 and as listed in the Haynes manual and no difference.

    In the end he broke down and I had to rev and ride the clutch to get him back on the drive, from then on he would only run a few seconds and die!
    Replaced a split vacuum advance pipe, no change..
    Tried a different brand rotor arm, no change.
    Decided to empty my tank and found it to be swimming in rust and replaced my fuel pump and filter but no change.

    Compression is 150psi on all four!

    Then oddly enough I bought another set of plugs because the other set were now filthy and it fired up but sounded like it was firing on three, pulled off each lead but couldn't tell any difference. Tried adjusting the gaps, and we found we had a good spark but not making any real difference. My mate suggested rebuilding the carb as it seemed familiar with one of his motorbikes.
    I bought a carb rebuild kit, needle and seat, needle valve, piston spring, float, adjusted to default settings and tried again... no real difference!
    Then.. replaced the leads and we were now firing on all four! Adjusted the carb by ear and had him running a good twenty minutes or so but didn't drive him till the following day when I found he had an annoying misfire pulling away and when you blipped the throttle! Tried plug gaps again and the mixture but was only happy idling, this was winding me up!

    Next evening wouldn't start and a couple days later I've finally managed to get him running but it's a fight and only lasts a few seconds! I'm back to square one and I swear it's the carb but I'm up to here with it and I may have gone over the top trying to get to the bottom of it but I need help!

    Anyone local to Swadlincote able to lend a hand or opinion? Meant to be in daily use!

  • #2
    Originally posted by Radnuts View Post
    I'm at breaking point with my Maestro, he's now been off the road 7 weeks and I feel like I've tried everything!

    All started with an intermittent misfire that gradually got worse despite:
    Plugs, leads, coil, cap and rotor, inline filter, stripped and cleaned the carb three times (manual choke)
    Tried plug gaps .35 and as listed in the Haynes manual and no difference.

    In the end he broke down and I had to rev and ride the clutch to get him back on the drive, from then on he would only run a few seconds and die!
    Replaced a split vacuum advance pipe, no change..
    Tried a different brand rotor arm, no change.
    Decided to empty my tank and found it to be swimming in rust and replaced my fuel pump and filter but no change.

    Compression is 150psi on all four!

    Then oddly enough I bought another set of plugs because the other set were now filthy and it fired up but sounded like it was firing on three, pulled off each lead but couldn't tell any difference. Tried adjusting the gaps, and we found we had a good spark but not making any real difference. My mate suggested rebuilding the carb as it seemed familiar with one of his motorbikes.
    I bought a carb rebuild kit, needle and seat, needle valve, piston spring, float, adjusted to default settings and tried again... no real difference!
    Then.. replaced the leads and we were now firing on all four! Adjusted the carb by ear and had him running a good twenty minutes or so but didn't drive him till the following day when I found he had an annoying misfire pulling away and when you blipped the throttle! Tried plug gaps again and the mixture but was only happy idling, this was winding me up!

    Next evening wouldn't start and a couple days later I've finally managed to get him running but it's a fight and only lasts a few seconds! I'm back to square one and I swear it's the carb but I'm up to here with it and I may have gone over the top trying to get to the bottom of it but I need help!

    Anyone local to Swadlincote able to lend a hand or opinion? Meant to be in daily use!
    Hi theres a guy called Nick who has a Austin garage not that far from you (Burton on Trent) who could help you his number is 01283 528181 .

    Comment


    • #3
      Might have fuel lines blocked with all the crud in the tank etc.....Can you get compressed air in there? Does sound like fueling.
      1989 MG Maestro Turbo #413

      1986 MG Maestro EFi - Dead but still here
      1985 Austin Maestro 1.3 L - Dead and in heaven

      2001 Rover 75 CDT (Daily Runner)

      Comment


      • #4
        Try running the engine from a can of fuel, and check the output from the fuel pump to make sure it isn't fuel starvation.
        www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
        www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
        www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

        Comment


        • #5
          hi

          with all the misfiring history it sounds like there could be a fault with the ignition amplifier on the side of the distributor.

          Comment


          • #6
            Isn't the ignition amplifier on the bulkhead on some models (from memory!). I think it might be the early cars. I seem to recall it sits near the coil.
            www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
            www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
            www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
              Isn't the ignition amplifier on the bulkhead on some models (from memory!). I think it might be the early cars. I seem to recall it sits near the coil.
              it is on the bulk head on the very early models i.e. before 85MY. The OP mentions manual choke, if it is standard equipment then his vehicle should be after 87MY or thereabouts.

              If it does turn out to be an early car with remote amp and a manual choke conversion then it is less likely to be a faulty amp and more likely the pick up coil.

              Comment

              Working...
              X