Major Diesel Leak from Engine

[Guest]

Hello.
Diesel Phil's Maestro Clubman Turbo Diesel has a significant loss of diesel when the engine is running.
It looks as if it is coming out from below the injector pump or even possibly from the crankshaft seal? Does this sound likely?
The cam belt is covered in diesel and it has been distributing diesel around the engine bay.
Would a garage repair bill be prohibitive on a £300 car or is this a suitable amateur repair.
The car is remarkably free from corrosion and is a low, 50,000 mile 1993 edition.
Thanks a lot
Diesel Dave

[E_T_V]

First thing to check is that it isn't coming out of the top of the fuel lift pump. This can cause it to spray everywhere. Look at the bonnet above where it sits to see if the sound proofing is soaked in diesel. This is by fare the most common leak point. Otherwise you'll have to wash the engine and locate the source of the leak. Some people have reported the fuel pump seal leaking on the cam pulley but it is rare.

[Guest]

Thanks for the reply. We fitted a new Lift Pump and there are no leaks around it. I'll try and take some pictures.
A lot of diesel comes out
Thanks again
Diesel Dave

[countrydude]

Sounds like it could be the injection pump itself, I had one fail on a 205 diesel, if you take the cambelt covers off you should be able to see it spraying out. It is where the seal - bearing fails.

Sounds the most likely in this case. If it is then it is little more than changing the cambelt realistically if you have changed the cambelt then you should be able to sort it?

[Guest]

Thanks for that. Is there a difference is between turbo and non turbo injector pump? I notice there are some on ebay

[Guest]

The Injection Pump on My TD Monty developed a leak recently. It turned out to be leaking around the 'head' of the pump. The head being the steel section where the high pressure injection pipes attach. The leak had developed between the alloy pump block and the steel head.

I had the pump reconditioned at a princely £345 quid. This is definitely more than the car is worth, but put it into context, what are you going to find thats as good for £345? Especially if as you say the bodywork on your car is good enough for a few more years....

good luck

james

[Guest]

This is the dilemma. I find that driving a Maestro is great. The handling is pretty good, though may benefit from stiffer springs and dampers but the load capacity is really good and the home servicing is easy bordering on straight forward. Under bonnet access is really good and the cars is certainly more spacious than the japanese influenced later Rovers.

This car is my brother's, my own Maestro is a 1994 Midnight Blue example with a bit more rust but still safely within MOT requirements.

It would be a shame to scrap the car for a repair that, possibly not easy, is not beyond the scope of a competent DIYer.

Diesel Dave

[G Force]

Thanks for that. Is there a difference is between turbo and non turbo injector pump? I notice there are some on ebay

Yes the pumps are different you will need the correct pump, you will also need to fit a new timing belt due to the diesel contamination reducing the belt life.

[Guest]

[QUOTE=Diesel Dave]Hello.

It looks as if it is coming out from below the injector pump or even possibly from the crankshaft seal? Does this sound likely?
The cam belt is covered in diesel and it has been distributing diesel around the engine bay.

If its deffo Diesel it wont be comin out the crank seal.
Although it maybe engine oil (from the crankshaft) being sprayed around the engine?

[countrydude]

Looks like you'll have to get the cambelt covers off and see! I have to say I would have gone for a 2nd hand pump from any scrapyard rather than reconditioning. A pump either works or doesn't. They so rarely fail, indeed usually out last the engine.

Take the plunge - mine was for a 205 and cost £65 a few years back. The pump is a similar bosch rotary pump so could be a similar price now? Maybe some one has a spare for cheaper - ask around here!

People here have really good technical knowledge - ask them details. It is a simple process really. You just need to know where all the timing holes are - one in the flywheel, cam and the pump itself. When removing the pump make sure you scribe the exact position to ensure you don't end up too out of time!! Just make sure you use the right drill bit or you'll run the risk of being a tooth out on the cambelt.

It is doing jobs like this that really expand your mechanical horizons - Get it done!!
:laugh: Its not even your car, what have you got to loose :laugh:

[countrydude]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-MONTEGO-...ayphotohosting

[Guest]

Thanks for that.
I've put a bid in.
I've started to amass parts and will try and do the job in the next 2 weeks.

Diesel Dave
(aka theminifarmer)

[countrydude]

Good luck, have a haynes manual at hand and ask every good mechanic you see for advice - Information is power!!!

Dan, ETV is very knowledgeable about the prima - ask him for starters!!

[Guest]

Well I have started.. The cam belt is off - used a Draper Timing Kit (£10 ebay) struggled to remove the original pump but got there.
My ebay purchased pump looks to be faulty. I went to Independant Diesel Services in Halifax (to buy seals) and they said the end pulley should rotate, albeit with some resistance, as the cams move. My ebay pump, the pulley is totally rigid. The original car's pump moves with resistance but the seals have gone.
I have contacted the ebay seller, I'll see how amenable he is.

It is a mammoth job but fairly straight forward. I wouldn't like to do it as a regular job. The cam belt is showing definate signs of deteriation.

Diesel Dave

[G Force]

My ebay pump, the pulley is totally rigid.
Diesel Dave

It isn't just that the pump is locked by the small bolt at the front of the pump? This bolt should have a spacer fitted under it in normal use but the spacer can be removed and the bolt tightened further to lock the pump.

Compare it with your old faulty pump.