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  • CV joint replacement

    My mate's MG Montego efi (F reg, facelift version) needs a new cv joint as its knocking like crazy. My local motor factor says there are two different ones listed depending on the size of the splines. Is there any way to tell which one it should be rather than taking apart to measure?

    When it comes to replacing it, I've always compressed the springs, but I don't think the Haynes manual says to do this. Am I wasting my time compressing the spring?

    Thanks in advance!

    Wayne


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  • #2
    there is only one size fitted to efi's or any 2 litre cars. They did make a bigger shaft for turbos but it was very shortlived and hardly any exist. I'm not even sure what spring you are talking about? You just remove the boot and knock it off, clean up the end of the shaft and make sure the o ring seats properly in the new cv joint and knock it onto the shaft.

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    • #3
      Thanks Countrydude, I'll go for the smaller one!

      I mean the suspension spring - I use spring compressors to compress it before splitting the ball joint, but not sure whether it's necessary.


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      • #4
        Not necessary, undo the castelated nut on the end of the driveshaft. Use a long bar for this and park the car on concrete - not gravel! Once this is undone take the wheel off, undo the 2 bolts on the suspension leg so that the wheel hub can fall out enough to get the driveshaft out of the hub. There is enough clearance if you push a bit. Then yank it out of the gearbox. I find a good tug will pull it out of the gearbox fine. No need to touch the suspension springs, ball joints they can stay on the car. It is a quick job really. 1-2 hours? Easily.

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        • #5
          This ebay listing has a good illustration, lists it as for an efi, diesel, and petrol turbo too which makes sence, maybe there was a difference in the splines for other engines.

          http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-MG-M...item1e76abac54

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          • #6
            Thanks for that mate, I've done a few of these in the past and have always messed around compressing springs and splitting ball joints! Your method seems much more straightforward!


            Sent from the museum of BL tat using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Glad to help, just remember to put a container to catch the gear oil that will drip out slowly while the shaft is removed. A funnel with a bit of garden hose is a great tool for topping the gearbox back up too. If you need any oil to top up afterwards 10 40 engine oil is fine! (I suggest you do do this as it is always best to check the oil every say 30-50k?)

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              • #8
                maybe best stick useing the proper gear box oil
                hypoid gear box oil sae 80ep is the one to use
                as the unit houses the differential as well.

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                • #9
                  Not sure where you got that info from Dave mtf94 is the best spec to use. 10 40 is fine for topping up though

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