No Brakes...

[D87SMW]

Checked over my brakes for this year's MOT and found I needed new rear cylinders and shoes due to the contamination aswell as wear...

Changed these and attempted to bleed them up, then promptly found the pedal going straight to the floor with only minimal efficiency - i.e. Just about slowing/holding the car when pressed right to the floor.

I've since changed the master cylinder and atempted to bleed the system with new fluid, but getting no fluid into the system. Now I actually have no braking effiiency whatsoever as it won't even hold anymore.

Could anyone think of what might cause this? It's like there is no response from.the.pedal, but there has been air pumped from the NSF wheel when attempting to bleed up...

[mgt16]

Sounds like a lark or split pipe somewhere how are you bleeding the brakes?

[E_T_V]

Could be a beggered master cylinder from the bleeding operation.

Have you tried vacuum bleeding it?

Are the new rear cylinders leaking.

[Captain Slow]

I still reckon that there's a great big airlock in there from you not bench-bleeding the new master cylinder. But as you had issues before that too, I'd be minded to re-check everything you've done at the back (Dismantle and reassemble if need be!) and check all the hoses for splits or leaks.

[E_T_V]

Sorry didn't spot you'd already swapped the master.

Vacuum bleeding is the easiest way I find, and indeed the only way on the van.

[BIGDAVE]

how about bleeding the outlet connectors from the master cylinder one at a time till fluid comes out to get the air lock out of the master cylinder it worked for me

[countrydude]

If you are using that kit that takes air from a tyre to bleed the system then bare in mind the kit is only recommended to be used with around 10psi? Forcing around 30psi through the system is going to cause problems. Chances are you have blown the seals on your replacement master cylinder too. I gravity bleed nowadays. Slower but is more reliable.

[G Force]

Could anyone think of what might cause this? It's like there is no response from.the.pedal, but there has been air pumped from the NSF wheel when attempting to bleed up...

Hello Steve.

I recommend persevering with the bleeding of the brakes.

Just FTR the correct bleed sequence is..............

N/S/F O/S/R O/S/F N/S/R.

When bleeding brakes, I use an assistant to pump the pedal, with me in charge of the spanner on the bleed point, giving clear commands such as (Down & Hold, & Up etc.) With the assistant responding with the same once he or she is doing or finished each operation. Remember to always keep the master cylinder fluid reservoir from running out as you bleed, because if it does you will need to start all over again.

All the best, G force

[E_T_V]

Yes that is how I do the bleeding unless I've got my vaccum bleeder to hand which makes things soooooo much easier.

Attach vaccum bleeder
Open nipple
Top up servo reservoir as needed
Close nipple
Repeat on the other wheels.

You can DIY make one easily enough with a vacuum, a jam jar, some tubing and some bluetac or sealant.

[Simon]

If you are using that kit that takes air from a tyre to bleed the system then bare in mind the kit is only recommended to be used with around 10psi? Forcing around 30psi through the system is going to cause problems. Chances are you have blown the seals on your replacement master cylinder too. I gravity bleed nowadays. Slower but is more reliable.

20psi for the Eezybleed. These work well on MMs.