Induction Temeprature Sensor

[Bonzodog]

I have an F reg 2.0 carburettor model Montego. Fitted to the intake manifold (driver's side) is the induction temperature sensor which has a couple of male spade connectors on it. The trouble is I can find no loose wires which ought to be plugged on to it. Are the wires which connect to this separate from the main loom?

[BIGDAVE]

i am not sure at all some one with more knollege mite let you know
but could it be something to do with the automatic choke and has been disconected because its been converted to manuel choke

[Bonzodog]

Not a bad guess but it doesn't seem to be the case. There is no manual choke and the stepper motor etc are all present and operating. I'm quite keen to resolve this as it might have a bearing on the engine's slightly rough running.

[G Force]

Not a bad guess but it doesn't seem to be the case. There is no manual choke and the stepper motor etc are all present and operating. I'm quite keen to resolve this as it might have a bearing on the engine's slightly rough running.

Hi

The temperature switch in the manifold controls the operation of the manifold heater. The heater operates during engine warm up, so if your running problems are not related to warm up then it won't be switch causing your problem.

The wiring loom for the switch and heater should be on the bulkhead under the manifolds, you might need to shine a light down there to find them. If the manifold heater is still connected you might be able to follow the wire back to the loom (red wire leading to brown wire). The manifold heater is under the inlet manifold in the centre.

[Bonzodog]

Thanks "G" - I will have a look tomorrow evening. The engine runs a bit rough and feels a bit underpowered compared to my other 2 litre estate and it is no better when warmed up so, as you say, my problem obviously lies elsewhere.

[G Force]

Thanks "G" - I will have a look tomorrow evening. The engine runs a bit rough and feels a bit underpowered compared to my other 2 litre estate and it is no better when warmed up so, as you say, my problem obviously lies elsewhere.

Hi with regard to running rough & being underpowered a couple of common issues are make sure there are no air leaks in the breather and vacuum hoses.

Another issue is check that the ORFCO valve is not stuck open. To do this, remove the valve by undoing the three screws.

When you look at the valve body (the bit where the gasket goes) there is a small oval hole at the end furthest from solenoid. Suck on that hole to see if you can get it to stick to your tongue.

If you can suck air through then the valve is stuck open and you need to close it. To do that, unscrew the solenoid from the body and free the plunger with WD40 then refit the solenoid and recheck the hole is now sealed.

Once you have refitted the valve do NOT reconnect it, as they are a constant source of unreliability. The best way is to just tape up the wires with insulation tape to make sure they cannot short out on the engine, and just forget about them.

cheers, G Force

[Bonzodog]

How curious.... I checked last night and where the manifold heater should be is a blanking plate and there is no ORFCO valve nor any apparent wiring relating to it. I don't know if the passage in the carb body for the valve is blanked off or undrilled though it does not immediately seem to be.

[G Force]

How curious.... I checked last night and where the manifold heater should be is a blanking plate and there is no ORFCO valve nor any apparent wiring relating to it. I don't know if the passage in the carb body for the valve is blanked off or undrilled though it does not immediately seem to be.

Hi

If your car is a face lift model 89 1/2 MY then it could be an unleaded fuel friendly version with electronically regulated ignition and carburation (ERIC)(silver coloured ECU). If so then the ORFCO wasn't fitted any more. This variant was less lively than the earlier models due to the ignition being mapped for unleaded. However I think it still should have the manifold heater in place though?