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guys i have a problem with my mg turbo monty shes idles ok and warms up like she is meant to she will drive fine then when trying to pull away from a junction or the round hump in the road u try and get it to boost and u lose all the power and she coughs and jumps around what could this be??have changed the leads plugs rotor arm cap and the coil and also the head gasket which did need doing i have had the carb replaced with one from a running car and she is still the same i want to get her to an mot station but while she is running like this i don't want to please help i would be so greatful.
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Check the carb balance pipe for splits or pinholes, thats the black loopy hose that sits on the carb at the front. -
i had a look at the pipes there are pipes going all over the place is it part of the breather system ot part of the fuel?Comment
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Hi, If it happens intermittantly the problem is likely to be the float chamber vent valve or the wiring to it. The valve is located behind the engine on the bulkhead under the brake servo. Have a look for the valve and follow the hose from it back to the carburettor, then disconnect the pipe and then using something suitable (I use a small piece of rubber hose with a bolt in one end) blank off the tube coming out of the carb. With this port blocked the engine should run normal if there is a fault with the valve. The only snag is you may have more difficulty starting when hot.
Cheers Gary
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The balance pipe is the u shaped black pipe going into and out of the carb., as Gareth says it might be split. You can also have the same symptons if the carb. gasket has split, did you put new ones on when you changed the carb?
I had the same problem in that the engine revved fine but once under load it was a pig, have a check.
HTH
HenryRComment
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oh that pipe is ok i replaced it and yes all the gaskets where replaced i take out teh valve and see if it makes any differance. p.s can u get new ones still.Last edited by steve smith; 13th December 2005, 11:15.Comment
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right i have been put on a test run this morning and it is still the same loss of power and then she cuts out try to drive and nothing what else coudl it be i have changhed the ecu many times. could it be the fuel pump relay or the crankshaft sensour?Comment
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Hi, I doubt it will be the pump relay its self, as for crank sensor it is possible but crank sensor faults usually manifest as rapid misfiring and can be acompanied with the rev counter jumping erratically rather than a dead cut of power coming in and out.Originally posted by steve smith
Check also the pipe to the turbo wastegate actuator especially close to the exhaust as this pipe often gets holed due to the heat.
Can you drive the car OK below 2500 3000 rpm? or do you get problems below this and on idle etc.?
Cheers Gary
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hi it sounds like it could be the crank sensour as it does rapidly misfire and the rev counter does jump around can u use a sensour from an efi as i got one from a race tuned engine it is very difficult to drive the car below 2500 rpm 3000 rpm also can u buy new crank sensours new?Comment
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I've never seen a faulty crank sensor, its always the connection multi-plug which gets contaminated with water and oil, it can corrode so check the multi-plug first as changing the sensor is a pain in the arse. As Ed's old car had been laid up for such a long time i would also check for corrosion on the coil connections aswell as this can make the rev counter jump and give a misfire, or even not start at all.Comment
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Hi, sounds like you have significantly narrowed down the possible causes, Check the connections on the crank sensor and also the low tension connections on the coil, if they are Ok then you can try another crank sensor as they do sometimes go faulty. If you have had the plug off the ignition ecu as you say, check the connections are tight and have not backed out of the plug.Originally posted by steve smith
Cheers Gary
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hi the coil connections are ok as shes had a new coil the only other real option now is the crank sensour i got a spare from a race engine rover wanted 75 quid plus for one so i said no ta i have a look at it on friday as i am off to collect a monty countryman last today and then have a day off tomorrow oh the othe thign is she only really plays around when she is hot she runs like a dream when cold. your comments please on a post card.:laugh:Comment
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The problem on mine was the wiring (harness side) into the plug that goes onto the crank sensor had broken on both of the wires and would intermittantly cut the signal to the ecu and so the ignition with it.Originally posted by GarethKidman
Take the plug off the sensor and pull the insulation back and inspect those wires. I think I ended up crimping a coolant sensor on in its place as it was the same connection (I think it was, it was a few years ago now)
If it's only when hot, is your fuelling ok? if you're running lean it could play up when hot.Comment
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right i finally got round to sorting the crank sensour it ran liek a dream for 15 mins then u guessed it she ran like a pile a
have also changed the fuel control in the glove box for a working one off an other car what else coudl it be i have now chnaged every thing i could fuel supply is ok. is there a ballast resisitor on the turbo fuel pumps or not? guys pleas ehelp if i can not solve it she will go on ebay soon .
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hi, the coil connections are not the wrong way round are they? the replacement one i got for my metro was marked the wrong way round in polarity when i got it, i had to swap the ends as it was giving a weak spark and not firing when under load etc. i wouldnt test it unless you know it wont destroy your ecu etc as i dont know these engines that well, im more of a bread and butter a series manOriginally posted by steve smithComment
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