Monty Ignition ECU

[Guest]

My gast was well & truly flabbered today when the first wrecker I went into actually had montego parts. Now my original ECU is a ADU9335 Type 0002 the one I've got from the wrecker is a ADU 9336 Type 0003. Mine is a carby model the donor vehicle an EFi. Can't see there being much difference in the ECU's. Any of you guys know any better?

[G Force]

Hi, The difference is only small, The advance map is where the difference is, it is optimised for the EFI as opposed to yours being optimised for the carb model. It will work fine some people report acctual improvement in performance but I can't say I have. You may notice a slight amount of pinking where you did not before but nothing to worry about.

Cheers Gary

[Guest]

I have an ECU from a Rover 216 EFi fitted to my Monty 1.6L (Carb Model) and it does give a bit of a faster acceleration due to the slightly more advaned timimg map.

[e692wtt]

I found using the Ignition ECU from a 2.0i VDP Auto in my Monty 1.6L with (then, in 2004) around 140k on the clock gave me a car that pulled like a train at low revs (it would pull a gear higher up steep hills at the same speeds!) but at the cost of a fair bit of pinking - I didn't bother with any high speed running :laugh: . I guess the advance map doesn't allow enough retardation of the timing for pinking to be vanquished on an S-series with high mileage and need of a decoke.

I have used this same ECU in Fleagle, my 'new' 1.6L with 25k on the clock, as the one he came with appeared to be unserviceable (the engine wouldn't run well and stalled with electrical loads, posted elsewhere) and he felt torquier but without the pinking . I'm now using the ECU from Monty but aim to try the 2.0i ECU again soon.

[Guest]

Thanks for all that info guys, I'll pop into town this morning & pay the man!

[Guest]

im currently running in my mg monty an ecu from an F reg 820 16v along with a K&N induction kit and I noticed 3rd gear does up to 70mph at just over 4,000 revs ( sorry I carn't remember the ADU number )....

[Guest]

Still having timing problems!!!

OK Guys Thinking Caps on please!
The Monty is starting a hell of a lot better now, since I've sorted out the automatic choke. The timing is still horribly retarded though when starting from cold, or hot, until you give it a good blip on the throttle. Even when it's nice & hot & you abuse it by almost stalling the engine, ie brakes hard on & slowly release the clutch, ( only do this, obviously, to get it into the faulty state ) the revs obviously die right down & the timing flips into the very retarded state & she runs as if on 2 cylinders until you give it a blip on the throttle & the timing comes right. I've swopped the ignition ECU & crank sensor & still get the same symptoms. Can't think of anything else that would alter the timing.
Cheers for any help,
Kieran in Darkest NZ!!

[tony]

ok , have you pulled all the muti plugs apart to see if all the connection are clean and dry , theres a big connection plug under the washer bottle .
all the earth connections clean ? theres some on both sides of the car behind the headlights low down inside the engine bay.

[G Force]

Even when it's nice & hot & you abuse it by almost stalling the engine, ie brakes hard on & slowly release the clutch, ( only do this, obviously, to get it into the faulty state ) the revs obviously die right down & the timing flips into the very retarded state & she runs as if on 2 cylinders until you give it a blip on the throttle & the timing comes right.

Hi Kieran, Just ignoring the timing issue for a moment, just a thought on what you say here.

With a hot engine and assuming the fast idle setting of the carb is correctly set to 1100 - 1200 rpm if you slow the engine as you describe then the fuel management ECU should automaticly adjust the engine speed by indexing the stepper motor to open the throttle.

To check if this part of the engine management is working first double check the fast idle setting is ok by removing the coolant sensor plug when the engine is hot, the revs should rise to 1100 - 1200 rpm, if not adjust the fast idle screw and refit the coolant sensor plug. If you now slow the engine by turning the idle screw or switching on some electrical loads (hrw lights etc) the stepper motor jacking pin should extend and the revs should speed up.

If this does not happen then first check that you have some lost motion at the throttle linkage and then that the throttle switch is operating. Using a multi meter across the switch on the throttle pedal, throttle closed 0 ohms throttle open infinity. If this is ok trace the wire colours back to the fuel ECU and check again.

If the throttle jacking works properly then the issue you have noticed with the timing may not cause any running problems there after. If you follow Tonys sound advice regarding earths and wiring and still have the timing issue but have no unusual symptoms, you may just have come across an anomolie in the original mapping.

Cheers Gary

[Guest]

Hi Gary, the carby seems to be working OK, hot idle speed is OK ( 1100RPM ), disconnect temp sender & revs rise to cold idle speed, 2000RPM ( a bit high, but I don't think that's a problem ) Put a load on the engine & the stepper motor jacking pin do's come out, but by this stage the timing has generally flipped into the retarded state & only a good blip on the throttle will put things right. Rev counter shows about 500 revs by the way when the timing is retarded & the engine sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. The throttle & ambient air temp switches are both OK.
Only just spotted Tony's post, will check the earthing etc at the first opportunity.
Just a thought:- what effect would a lower than normal amplitude pulse from the crank sensor have? I would assume that at low engine speeds the pulse would be at it's lowest, and as my problem only happens at low engine speeds.......
Anyway, from a cold, wet NZ evening,
Cheers for now.

[G Force]

Hi, Kieran, If you do not have any luck with the wiring and earth connections then another thing to effect the timing is the reluctor disc on the flywheel.

Unfortunately checking the reluctor ring would involve removing the flywheel as it is not easily seen on the car. The 2.0 reluctor ring is fairly well protected in service but if it was damaged in any way then the engine would not run correctly. I have seen quite a few 1.6 engines run erraticly after the reluctor has been damaged during a clutch change. The crank sensor on the 2.0 should have a spacer fitted between it and the adapter plate if it is not fitted the sensor will be damaged

The reluctor has 34 poles spaced at 10 degree intervals with 2 missing poles at 180 degree intervals representing TDC.

I doubt the knock sensor will be causing a problem but if you disconnect it, it can't have any effect on the timing.

Regards Gary

[Guest]

Hi Gary, checking the wiring & earths will have to wait till after our short Easter break away from home, ( taking the Rover 216 to be on the safe side!!! ). If that doesn't turn up anything I plan to knock together a single transistor amplifier to boost the crank sensor pulse up to a nice healthy 5v, & see what effect that has. If it doesn't have the desired effect at least I'll know that the problem isn't in that area!! Nothing ventured nothing gained eh!!
Ah well, back to " Yes Prime Minister " !!
Cheers,
Kieran.

[G Force]

Hi, Kieran, If there was a high resistance in the wiring from the ignition ecu to the crank sensor this would reduce the crank sensor output voltage seen by the ecu. If you measure the resistance of the crank sensor and compare it to the resistance between the blue purple and white blue wires at the ignition ecu the difference should be negligable. If this is ok there should be no need to amplify the signal. The cable from the sensor to the ecu is a a straight run of shielded cable to stop any interferance / induction, and the only connections are at the sensor plug and ecu.

Have a nice easter break cheers Gary