rear wheel arch liners

[TLC]

Why carnt we have rear wheel arch liners like we have for the front then we would solve the problem of rusty filler pockets and filler pipes.I cut off a complete rear arch years ago with the view of useing it as a temlpate.But havent had time to do it,It would be similer to the front ones.

[countrydude]

get it done! i'd like to see what you end up making!

[E_T_V]

The rear arches usually rot from the inside out rather than due to damage from stonechips.

[TLC]

They also get a lot of muck thrown up round the fuel filler pipe/pocket.

[Guest]

The easiest way of stopping rust in this general area is to -

1. go to your nearest scrappers and rip the rubber arch lip/flange trims off of any car fitted with them, obviously checking they are long enough first! - when fitted to your car they will not only reduce stonechips to your flanges, but will stop skegness and dampness creaping into the flange seam (joint between the innder and outer arch). It is worth considering running some waxoil into these rubber trims before fitting as this will provide additional protection. make sure they are a nice tight fit also.

2. waxoil/dinitrol the hell out of the inner arch area - access points through the door striker pin in the rear door shut, through the massive hole in the boot area and there are also some little rubber plugs in the susspension turrets that can be removed to gain access to inject more protectant.

3. jetwash/steam clean the arches and arch areas (external), make sure every single piece of skegness is removed putting emphesis on the body seams - then apply some form of bodwork seam sealant to the gaps in the seams (there will be a fair few because this is the main reason why maestros/metros and montegos rust). fill these gaps to overflowing and use some sort of spatula? to make sure the stuff is pushed well into each crevis.
Resonably time consuming but well worth it.

4. Abit like number 3 but here goes - the factory underseal on the 'm's is pretty good in honesty (if not abit lacking in certain areas) but where there is visable damage to this underseal, it is worth making repairs to it using seam sealant again or an underseal of your choice.

All of the above only really applys if your arches etc aret to far gone!

Ben

[TLC]

Isnt Waxoil to thick to get between the inner and outer rear aches as the pannels are only a few millimeters apart .Dinitrol i havent used is it more liquid.

[mgdavid]

Isnt Waxoil to thick to get between the inner and outer rear aches as the pannels are only a few millimeters apart .Dinitrol i havent used is it more liquid.

Original Waxoil when used per instructions is runny and thin enough to spray. Are you confusing it with another product, underseal maybe?

[Guest]

(there will be a fair few because this is the main reason why maestros/metros and montegos rust

There is hardly any rust proofing in any of the pillers so the maestros and montys rust from the inside out in these areas due to condensation, I have no doubt so of this moisture will also drain down into the areas below the pillers.

[Guest]

There is hardly any rust proofing in any of the pillers so the maestros and montys rust from the inside out in these areas due to condensation, I have no doubt so of this moisture will also drain down into the areas below the pillers.

Agreed, I missed this issue out - also a very strong influence on rust in the areas this thread/topic is based upon.

[TLC]

Original Waxoil when used per instructions is runny and thin enough to spray. Are you confusing it with another product, underseal maybe?

NO i dont think so as ive seen a rear wing that had supposed to have been waxoiled and it hadnt got any where near the bottom of the inner and outer arch when the outer arch was cut off

[matthewsemple]

NO i dont think so as ive seen a rear wing that had supposed to have been waxoiled and it hadnt got any where near the bottom of the inner and outer arch when the outer arch was cut off

Then it wasn't waxoyled properly. The point that David is making is that the waxoyl needs to be heated so it is runny. That way it makes its way into the corners before it cools and hardens.

[Dazzman]

Small waxoyl tip!

A small recommendation here - on my sunbeam I heated up the waxoyl to ensure it was very runny, and also did one wheel arch at a time with the wheelarch sideways to the sun, choosing a hot sunny day. This ensured the inner parts of the wheel arches were warm, and thus more likely not to let the waxoyl set prior to reaching the lower parts of the inner metal areas.

This worked very well for the tailgate too where its often difficult to ensure effective coverage in the most recessesed corners. For the Maestro, just be prepared to place material over the bumper to prevent the inevitable waxoyl dripping from the tailgate drainage holes!

[TLC]

Then it wasn't waxoyled properly. The point that David is making is that the waxoyl needs to be heated so it is runny. That way it makes its way into the corners before it cools and hardens.

you got it.If i warm up the tin first with a fan heater and also the wheel arch the waxoil should hit the right destination.It would help if we got some warmer dryer weather

[E_T_V]

Put the waxoyl into a bucket of boiling hot water and leave it there for 15 minutes. The hotter the car/day the better as it slows the cooling of the waxoyl.

[guussi]

oh dear

opps silly moi
i thinned my wax oil with some white spirit....
and i guess should have micro waved it in a plastic disk