I know there might be a few people on here that know about this engine and could help me. I bought a Freelander XDi 6 weeks back when a got rid of the MG TF and it’s a crock of ****. Among many other problems my friend has sorted I still have the cold engine starting problem. It takes 20-25 seconds to turn over if the car has not been in use for 10 hours plus. After its been started and run for a while it will turn straight over if I use it again in the next 1-8, 9 hours. I have goggled the problems and come up with coolant temp sensor, this has been changed, no affect. Timing out, the belt has been off when my friend changed the leaking crank oil seal but he said the cam belt was warn as when whoever had fitted it had done it incorrectly and it was rubbing on the cover. He has refitted the warn belt to get me motoring again and I have bought a new one. Cold starting problem is still there so has anyone got any ideas or a checklist he could go through when putting on this new belt to try and cure this problem as I am worried when the frosty mornings arrive it isn’t going to start at all. Cheers Andy.
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Rover L series starting problems checklist?
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First port of call for me would be to check the glow plugsRover 200 and 400 Owners Club (for wedge shape rovers, including coupe, tourer and cabriolet). - www.rover200.org.uk
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Check out my diesel site for some info
www.roverdiesel.co.uk
3 or 4 common causes.
1. Glow plug failure
2. Glow plug relay failure
3. Incorrect timing (of fuel pump belt not cambelt!)
4. Air leak in the fuel system
Pump the priming bulb until it goes hard (sometimes they don't but if you get bored pumping that is probably enough). If the starting improves then you have an air leak somewhere (usually filter, priming bulb itself or any fuel unions).
If not then check to see if voltage is reaching the glow plugs when the igntion is turned on with a cold engine. N.B. The glow plug light doesn't actually indicate when the glow plugs are on!. If no voltage is found, check the relay and fuse, replacing as necessary
If you get 10-12v at the plugs for 2-30 seconds then you may wish to measure the resistance of each glow plug in turn (after disconnecting the wiring to it). The resistance should be an ohm or two. Replace any that have zero or infinate resistance. N.B. The plug behind the pump if fitted often can't be removed - don't worry about it - the engine will start on 3 plugs happily, indeed many engines only have 3 plugs.
If that gives no luck then check the timing for the fuel pump. I think I need to write a how-to article for this!
There are two different widths of cambelt so it could be you have the wrong one fitted!www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site
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the first lot of freelander was a crook of #### when only 6 months old. were improved greatly for 2001 model year. the worse bit of 2001 model yearwas the dropping of the l series diesel which was the best engined freelander by far.
Like above check the glows are working, check the fuel pump timing and also check the engine timing. I have seen an l series run (after long cranking) 1 tooth out on the engine timing. It did knock though.
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Originally posted by Andy View PostThanks a lot for this information. I will pass it on to my friend when he does the belt next week and hopefully it will cure the problem
There are two. One at each end of the engine.www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site
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Originally posted by E_T_V View PostBelts you mean.
There are two. One at each end of the engine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2809052635...84.m1439.l2649MG Maestro Turbo #500
BMW 335I M Sport Convertible
Subaru Impreza Hawkeye Wagon
Rover 218vvc Coupe
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I have text my mate and he said I need the cam to crank belt and pump to cam belt. I am gessing the one I have bought is the cam to crank belt. I cant find the other for sale anyone got a link to show me what I am looking for? He's going to do them as soon as they come. And its still ******* oil out from somewhere. 10th car I have had in the last seven and a bit years and its most defiantly the worse, in fact the only one I have really had bother with, luck had to run out sometime ha.MG Maestro Turbo #500
BMW 335I M Sport Convertible
Subaru Impreza Hawkeye Wagon
Rover 218vvc Coupe
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Its a smaller one at the other end of the cam.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-MVF100040P
Local motorfactor will be able to source you one cheaply enough.www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site
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ARRRRR cars not for real hope the maestro is more reliable when its back on the road. Driving round my girlfriends last night and the squealing sound that developed a few weeks again got a lot louder then snap and smell of burning no power steering or servo assisted brakes. Took a look in the light this morning and that dam belt has snapped as well. Going to keep my mate busy this one. Cheers for the link Dan and I will ask my friend to take a good look again for that leak.MG Maestro Turbo #500
BMW 335I M Sport Convertible
Subaru Impreza Hawkeye Wagon
Rover 218vvc Coupe
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To be honest mate I'd sack it off before you spend anything on it. You'll only go to repair the motor and then the 4WD gear will go tits up. Trust me, I do these things day in day out and I'm stuck with a V6 Freelander that spat it headgaskets, then it's front and rear diffs and propshaft centre bearing. It's now my low-mpg load-lugger whilst I finish my van, but it's running a rover 75 auto FWD box and modified driveshafts, AWD's for pussies anyway...
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Or don't worry I have had the change the vcu ha, and I am not 100% happy still can hear a very slight wining noise but I have been told by a few people its nothing 4wd's make a bit of a noise (My Impreza didn't). Rear diff was leaking thats been fixed, crank seal leaking thats been fixed still leaking oil. Changed an array of hoses/belts/sensors had the tracking done and gave it a full service. Still finding things wrong with it aircon needs re-gassing heated rear window doesn't work went to put air in the spare tyre, doesn't seem to want to take any. Be more **** I have forgot about. Just got to that stage where I have spent that much money in the last 6 weeks I keep thinking it will be fine after this. Never had a car like it only other car I have had to spend a fortune on was the impreza but that was self inflicted. Mate was round last night anyhow idler pulley has seized and that snapped the aux belt. Hopefully the local motor factors can get me the parts in on monday and ail be motoring again by the night.MG Maestro Turbo #500
BMW 335I M Sport Convertible
Subaru Impreza Hawkeye Wagon
Rover 218vvc Coupe
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Ouch. Idler pulley is expensive and if it shreds the aux belt first (it usually does) then this often causes the cambelt to break/jump too!www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site
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