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  • Valve stem oil seal configuration

    Hi guys! I recently had my monty turbo head re built by a professional engineer. I stripped it but cant for the life of me remember what order the valve components were in. The guy has put the spring cup seat on then the seal, spring, top cup and collets which the Haynes manual shows is for the normally aspirated 2.0 o series engine. However I read that the turbo models have a different configuration which I understand is the seal 1st followed by the spring seat, spring, top cup then collets. Maybe I'm reading it wrong because I've heard that its physically impossible to do it in this way. I have added diagrams from the Haynes manual which shows what I meanClick image for larger version

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    Thought I'd put the bit about later models on incase this helps but I'm sure mine is the older style as the old seals didnt have the seat built in. The head set I bought did so I had to call rimmer bros and get the correct ones.
    Please someone tell me I'm right here and that this is whats causing my poor old car to burn oil so bad. I know it could be the rings , reconed turbo (hope not as it cost me £200) or the breather system. I just cant use it anymore due to the amount of smoke and feel so bad for it cause everyone stares and laughs as if to say old banger. If only it was going well cause I'd have the last laugh when I put the foot down lol!

  • #2
    The turbo seals are different as the valves are a different size from memory. I think that is what they are refering to in the haynes.
    www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
    www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
    www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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    • #3
      Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
      The turbo seals are different as the valves are a different size from memory. I think that is what they are refering to in the haynes.
      So you dont think the seal goes on 1st then? I think it was the diagrams that threw me and the fact it said they are of different configuration than the standard engine. The way the have numbered the valve as 1 then the seal as 2 and so on got me thinking. I was so hoping this was what was causing the oil to be burning but back to the drawing board lol! Thanks for your reply!

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      • #4
        Originally posted by wee_dav View Post
        Hi guys! I recently had my monty turbo head re built by a professional engineer. I stripped it
        Erm...have to ask how professional was he then if you're having to strip it?
        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser finished
        1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
        2004 Rover 75 Conny auto
        2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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        • #5
          tried to pm but you're full

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          • #6
            Seal has to go on first. It won't seal anything if it doesn't go between the valve and the guide/insert.
            www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
            www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
            www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
              Erm...have to ask how professional was he then if you're having to strip it?
              Sorry jeff I meant to say that I stripped the head with the intent to re build it myself. I gave it to the engineer in bits

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              • #8
                Originally posted by leeroy View Post
                tried to pm but you're full
                Sorry Leeroy my box has room now thanks

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
                  Seal has to go on first. It won't seal anything if it doesn't go between the valve and the guide/insert.
                  Do you think that is whats causing the heavy oil burning then? I so hope this is the case! I would whip it off and re do it no bother if I was sure this was the problem!

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                  • #10
                    When is it burning oil?

                    On boost? On the over-run? when hot?

                    There are a few likely suspects but it depends on when it is smoking to narrow it down.
                    www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                    www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                    www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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                    • #11
                      It will smoke after 10 mins of sitting idling and all times when driving especially while stopping at traffic lights. it covered the whole car the other night at the lights. When you say the stem seals go between the guide do you mean inside it or over it? I am mad at myself for not remembering when I stripped it. I should have taken pics and kept them in the correct order. I did however mark which valves went there I would imagine if the seals weren't in the right place the oil would just pass through and burn along with the fuel. The engineer says it is impossible to fit the seal 1st though

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                      • #12
                        Smoke at idle is more likely to be rings or turbo. If you get one big puff of smoke after decellerating in gear, then that is valve seals.

                        Valve stem comes up through the guide.
                        The bottom washer sits over the top of the guide.
                        Push the valve seal over the valve stem onto the top of the guide. (some stem seals have the bottom washer built in but I don't think the turbos do - The TD's do though).
                        Then the spring sits ontop of the washer.
                        Then the cap on the top
                        Compress the spring
                        Fit the collets
                        Job done.
                        www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                        www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                        www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by E_T_V View Post
                          Seal has to go on first. It won't seal anything if it doesn't go between the valve and the guide/insert.
                          Hi thanks for the reply! As quoted above you say the seal goes on 1st but then you said the spring seat goes on 1st followed by the seal. Maybe I'm just not understanding lol Its been going on so long now that my heads all over the place

                          Come to think on it, if I give it a wee kick and slow down then it does tend to get worse. When I turn it off I get a large puff of smoke.

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                          • #14
                            Sorry, the washer should go on first (if it is seperate from the oil seal - some are built in)
                            Some are big enough to fit over the seal. Some aren't



                            So it should be the washer first not part of the seal, the seal, the spring, the cap and then the collets.
                            www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
                            www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
                            www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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                            • #15
                              Thanks! the newer turbos had the seat built in on 4 of them (exhaust or inlet cant remember) but mine is the separate kind. Thats cleared that up then wish I hadn't looked at the diagram now cause it really threw me. Its just the way the valve is marked as number 1 the seal looks next as it says 2 and so on lol! Thanks for your help! I suppose all I can do now is the rings. Dont know how hard it is to get hold of them now.

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