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To remove the wiper arm you just need to get a lever under it and wiggle it, up down, left and right normally even with being tight.. you could turn the ignition on, get the wiper arm to park upright by turning the ignition off so it stays there. Another trick is to turn the wipers on with the nut off...Last edited by Jeff Turbo; Today, 13:58.
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As per above, remove the door panels and try again with all doors shut. You may find it just needs lubrication etc if the central locking mechanism is working and you can hear it but doesn't lift/close the lever, if not it's easy to replace them or check for power there. The internals do sometimes wear...
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As per this, to fix back in you push in at the top lugs positions until they click then the bottom. I did this earlier twice to test it as I haven't done this for awhile so I know it works and didn't break anything but don't force it...
Last edited by Jeff Turbo; Today, 13:16.
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To remove the switch you need to lever out from the top but they are tight, you may also need to lever out the plug at the back with a small screwdriver as they are very tight. There should be a little cut out you can open with a small screwdriver. Austin in their wisdom didn't make a long enough wiring...Last edited by Jeff Turbo; Today, 13:37.
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Rear water pipe for Maestro and Montego efi engines. UAM 2790 New old stock £20 plus post...
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Front pad shims and bolts, new old stock £20 for the pair plus post
Exhaust rubber mounts, new old stock £10 each pus post
M G TURBO show plates £25 plus post
Montego/Maestro Diesel manifold gasket £15 plus post...
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Having a small clearout
Various things for sale.
Wiper motor, early type £20 plus post
Montego bonnet cable, one left £15 plus post
Montego washer jets, new old stock £10 for the pair plus post...Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 5th July 2026, 11:05.
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Coming on a pace now, be done by the end of the year ?
You may have to reset the stepper motor, how to do that is on here somewhere from Gary...
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No worries and happy to help, hopefully you can now enjoy the car. It might make hot starting a little difficult sometimes but hopefully all's good now. You might want to put a little lube down it, WD-40 etc and test it a few times . Ignition on and it should be closed so you can't blow down it, ignition...Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 21st June 2026, 05:32.
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Yeah no worries, I'm still on holiday until 24th June so will have a looksee after then...
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I think I have a fuse box cover somewhere in what's left of my spares, sunroof seal is the same as a Golf, I have a bonnet staying clip but in black, bonnet pull lever I may also have,...
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Yes I thought it might be Ricks old turbo. The Rimmers windscreen surround isn't very good as I've tried one of those before. Good idea to change the belt as you don't know if it's going to last and a new one is a better bet than an older one.
The seller I think said it's original paint and never...
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All points to the vent valve staying open when warm/hot or the balance pipe might have a small crack. Make a small pipe up and change it over next time it happens while warm , should take less than a minute to swap it, then you'll know if it's the vent pipe or not.Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 16th June 2026, 05:34.
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It's probably the vent valve playing up, if it does it again block it off as per my last post...
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Try blanking off the vent pipe from the carb as you're getting air into the system. Two inch fuel pipe with a bolt in it. If it ticks over ok and does that under boost, that's your issue...Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 12th June 2026, 19:48.
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That's a very rare colour turbo you have there. Yes put loads of pictures up. There is a company reproducing the rear quarter trims. Where did you pick that up from, was it car and classic ?Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 12th June 2026, 05:13.
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Blimey what's happened to it now. One bit of good news though as it passed
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