2.0L Turbo Injection Pump Timing

[Martingo]

I’m in the process of checking/adjusting the injection pump timing. I’ve got the DTI tool etc.

I have asked this question before about what the value of the timing should be as there a few options in the manual, but I’m still not clear what the value is. So a few thing to bear in mind - this 2.0L TD engine is in an old Land Rover so no idea what it used to be in. Also there is no engine number to be found. I’ve recently done head gasket timing belt and many other things and I noted the date stamp on few parts seemed to be mid 1991. From this info can you tell what the correct timing value should be?

I thought that when I checked it as it is now I would see that it was close to one of the manual values, however the current reading is 2.8mm!!!! The value I was expecting was 1 or 1.2mm. Would the engine run if it was that far out? A Montego driver once told me if this timing was slightly out the engine would run like a pig.

Also worth saying the injection pump has not been touched in the recent work.

Cheers

[Doctordiesel77]

If the timing was over advanced it would still run, but might be a bit less efficient than it should be and the head gasket might not like it.. If it has single stage injectors (no egr) setting should be 1mm, two stage should be 1.2mm..

[Martingo]

Interesting you say the head gasket wouldn’t like the timing as it is.

The injectors are two stage but there is no EGR system on the engine. I think in its previous life it would have had EGR but this has not been transferred to the Land Rover. Not sure how that would affect the running of the engine when there are elements of the EGR system there but no electronics.

Cheers

[Doctordiesel77]

The lack of egr won't make any difference, it is just a quick way to predict that it has 2 stage injectors and the later pump, if you ever want to put it back on I think I've got some of the ecus. I've seen Primas running with timing a long way out & seemingly quite happy, but they were all a lot happier once it was put right! I remember having problems with a peugeot xud engine years ago, started instantly when cold, but not when hot & ate head gaskets...eventually realised that timing hole had been drilled in the wrong place (presumably in the factory) so timing was over advanced, once this was fixed its appetite for head gaskets disappeared. Other head gasket/incorrect timing may have been coincidence, but since the Peugeot incident I have connected them...
good luck

[Martingo]

Thanks for the info. Thought this was now going to be easy adjustment but I seem to have very odd situation. If I turn the injector pump the full amount the slots will allow, clockwise or anti clockwise it makes no difference to the DTI reading, still reads 2.8mm regardless.

I must be doing something wrong but I can’t see what?

[Doctordiesel77]

Very odd, does it go back to zero if you turn the engine backwards?

[Martingo]

Yes it goes back to zero if turned backwards. I’ve turned forward numbers of cycles and it goes up and down 4 times of course but 2.8mm every time.

I found a cross section drawing of a ve type pump to see how it worked in case I was picking up wrong movement but based on it being plunger going in and out there’s not much else to get the probe on. Then I thought maybe it’s not correct pump for the prima but im sure it is, even if it was wrong it should still change when the pump is rotated. However I still don’t really understand how moving the pump on the slots changes the plunger stroke, not easy to see on the drawing

[Doctordiesel77]

All it changes is the percentage of the stroke that has been completed at tdc. If you turn it back to zero, then go forward until gauge reads 1.2mm then the pump is in the position that it should be in at tdc. 2.8mm is the full stroke of the plunger, the remaining 2.6mm should happen after tdc.. If the belt is a tooth out it might be getting to 2.8mm lift before tdc and not moving because the plunger is on the flat bit at the top of the cam? If you turn the pump to 1.2mm , then lock it with the bolt at the front (the one with the spacer under it) you should be able to fiddle with the belt to get it somewhere near tdc, then loosen bolt, put spacer back in and recheck/fine tune with the slots.

[robert1]

is this a running engine? you have used the b mark on the pump pulley?

[Martingo]

Yes it was running engine but head gasket failed few months ago so everything connected to head has been worked on recently and I’m into the final rebuild.

Ok so after the last explanation on the reading I’ve gone back and had another go! Now it’s so obvious and everything is falling into place. I completely misunderstood the instruction book, I thought the adjustment reduced or increased the plunger stroke. Of course it doesn’t you are only shifting the point at which the 1.2mm is reached at TDC. Every day is a school day with me and this diesel engine.

Thanks for all the help, I’m sure I’ll be back with more problems

[Martingo]

And just to confirm the injector pulley is aligned with the B mark

[Steve O]

Hi.Took the montego out today for a spin as the weather was half decent for a change.
i noticed when decelerating i could here a knocking noise coming from the front offside it seems? Put the window down and could hear it clearer,if i accelerate it goes away? Also on turning the wheels left i could hear what sounded like a bag of nails coming from same area. Is this likely to be a CV joint or bearing? Cant think of anything else it could be? Any advice greatly received. Thankyou

[Doctordiesel77]

Hi.Took the montego out today for a spin as the weather was half decent for a change.
i noticed when decelerating i could here a knocking noise coming from the front offside it seems? Put the window down and could hear it clearer,if i accelerate it goes away? Also on turning the wheels left i could hear what sounded like a bag of nails coming from same area. Is this likely to be a CV joint or bearing? Cant think of anything else it could be? Any advice greatly received. Thankyou

CV or bearing sounds most likely, or could be something catching the wheel, like disc splash guard etc. other possibility is that the wheel nuts are loose (this has happened before....) if you jack it up and spin the wheel by hand you should be able to trace it..