Mongeo Countryman Td to L series

[countrydude]

I had a major failure on my poor old perkins lump, the sump was badly dented and I thought I had checked it thoroughly to check the strainer for damage and the sump for leaks. Of course what I didn't do was depth check. Had I have done that I would have found a couple of mm for the oil to enter the strainer through.

So out with the old and in with the new so I say! Here are a few pics:

Before, an unsuspecting Countryman with a perkins diesel


On the ramp in Rugby

Empty bay

The L series awaits...

Pic of the engine in the bay:

Attempted pic of the engine mount: (I will try to get a better pic when I take it off to paint it) Note the decorative corrosion being pushed out from the exp tank!

What the pics don't show is the classic T16 cut out of the cross member, a very tricky downpipe being fabricated, a few high pressure hoses being bought to size and fittings, err, me hitting my head on a Fu**ing switchbox several times.

Now I can't really say it has been a great few weeks. Thanks to a couple of friends from over on the Triple M site The engine has as already stated had a new cambelt with tensioners, a headgasket with the head having a reface - very light skim. So I am still tentative with it.

I have fitted an oil and boost gauge (yes I have set them straight now!) So hopefully I can keep a better eye on problems arising in future. Also the oil pressure switch wire was classically unconnected due to the rubbing on the driveshafts which didn't help!

That being said I have had a week of driving and I am beginning to trust it. Plates still need to be made up to drop the ARB as it is rubbing on the downpipe, a front wheel bearing is adding to that same cacophony also!

For drivability it is way ahead of the old prima though. The smaller turbo makes the boost never too far away for motorway driving it is very good. I plan to intercool it and then to tweak the pump to around the 130bhp mark and then leave it - although maybe a boost valve could appear also so I can outrun a few modern diesels!

The car is currently boosting at 12psi and has had the slightest max fuel screw tweak as it was running a bit lean.

[Oli]

Awesome conversion. How long did it take you in all? What were the harder bits of the conversion? Its something i would be interested in myself.

[countrydude]

It was 2-3 days of mostly 1.5 people working if you get me. So I would say get a friend to help and you should be able to get it done in around 3 days.

To remove the engine, make the mount, get the pas pipes made up, re connect the vaccum for the brakes, make up the pipework for the water system, mount up the fuel filter (we kept the prima one) mounted on the same holes on the block!
The exhaust is a pain as mine is still fouling the ARB, I will make a couple of plates to drop the bar down when I get a moment. You will need to make a downpipe from the turbo as the L series one is different, you will need to weld on the flange to fit the turbo elbow from the L series exhaust.

I will get the mount painted up soon so I will get a photo when I do, it is erm, substantial shall we say?!!

If you were thinking of doing it I would say go for it! The L series in the Montego is a good upgrade. Only thing is as Dan has found the wiring on the Di models is a right ****** so beware!

I don't have any experience of electrics, Jez a friend who was helping me is very good with electrics basically took the prima wiring loom and within a very short space of time had the engine wired! It has less wiring on it than the Prima had! Seriously it was done well within 30 mins and minimal swearing!

It is the early Mechanical pump which was not intercooled. Which some swear by as being the easier of the 2 to tune up too. But as is always the way, we only find things easy when we have done them before or, we can relate a past experience to the job in hand.

[guussi]

For drivability it is way ahead of the old prima though. The smaller turbo makes the boost never too far away for motorway driving it is very good. I plan to intercool it and then to tweak the pump to around the 130bhp mark and then leave it - although maybe a boost valve could appear also so I can outrun a few modern diesels!

pmsl!
one has to rev the prima to 3k at the lights to get the turbo to work when you want it straight away! [some fast performance turbo petrols have a launch button starting at 3-4k revs presumably for this very reason having terrible lag]
i did this to a supra behind me once at the dudley M5 roundabout ...i bet he was in total shock - not too mention the soot delivered

[countrydude]

So you should have a look at Dan's ETV site which will give you a good run down on how to tweak the pump. I think I got my prima tuned up better than my L series as it stands now for low down torque.

I need to fiddle with the pump to get better early fueling.

[E_T_V]

Diesels generally don't develop much if any boost when held at a specific rpm as the fuelling controls the boost levels in effect. It'll only generate boost if you load the engine or blip the throttle.

L series turbos start providing boost at about 1500rpm and develop max boost at about 3k rpm.
Prima turbos start providing boost at about 1750rpm and max out just below the governor.
and so are less drivable day to day. However it was the best that was available at the time, and there is probably 10 years of development between the two engines so comparison isn't really fair.

I can't wait to see what mine drives like. its only running 1.25bar at the moment but I need to do some proper loaded testing to make sure that is right.

[E_T_V]

The biggest power I've had on a mechanical pump L series is 150bhp but the clutch couldn't cope with that (had a hybrid turbo, modded injectors etc).

For reliability 200ftlb is about the limit on the smaller clutch and that is on a good day.
Generally you can run upto 240ftlb on the larger clutches before you start to get problems.

I've got a paddle clutch which has been proven at 270ftlb if I need it but hopefully I won't as I'd like to to be drivable day-to-day.

[countrydude]

Yes, 130 is a target as it will be my main driving car. Reliability is the main keyword here. I was however expecting the heater issues to disappear with the conversion though, it would appear the matrix needs a good flushing. It runs warm, then cold within a minute or so.

I have just dropped 2 hubs off to a friend with a press so I can get new bearings fitted, hopefully can get the plates to drop the ARB done today too!

[E_T_V]

That is one thing I've not yet checked.... The heater! Where does your temp gauge sit normally and what temp does the fan cut in at?

I've got a digi-dash in mine that goes off of the scale and starts flashing at me but the fan hasn't cut in yet. It didn't start spewing water out so I'm presuming it was still ok. I'm wondering if I'll need to swap the sensor for something nearer the original one to avoid the voice moaning at me every 5 mins.

[countrydude]

Ah, yes I took the temp sensor - single spaded sensor out of the thermostat housing.
It was sitting really high with the L series sensor, just before the red on the scale in the car. On checking the temp in the exp tank it was at 80 deg c so no problems.

With the prima sensor the temp sits at around 1/3 to 1/4 in town and general driving. On the motorway it will creep up to around 1/2.

[countrydude]

Just come back from a drive after flushing the matrix, wow I was too hot there for a moment!

I wish I had chopped out the oil cooler from the prima before as that was obviously stemming the flow of hot water to the matrix which in turn is why the matrix fills up with corrosion and stops working. I flushed both ways which has really done the trick! Toasty!!

[bodgit0_0]

What gearbox are you using with the L series???? I like the sound of this conversion but would want it for my Lada project...

Which model would I find the early mechanical pump version.

Lee

[countrydude]

L series uses the same PG1 gearbox so I lifted the gearbox and clutch as it has the same flywheel too! It is no secret the L series is another reworking of the O series so uses the same block.

Have no idea how you could work this into a Lada but it is a solid engine worthy of a diesel transplant.

Not entirely sure of the models and years, only know mine was a 220 bubble on an R reg.

[E_T_V]

As the L series was used in the freelander I presume any L series with a freelander gearbox would be the most suitable for a lada niva/cossack conversion. All non intercooled 200/400 D models have the mechanical pump. Di ones have the electronic pump.

[bodgit0_0]

I have already half grafted a perkins prima TD in to the Lada on an LDV gearbox (LT77) and machined a new output to match the Lada T-Box.

Looking at more useable lower reving power as its going to be used off-road a lot.

Just looking at all options before I tidy up the conversion and stick with whats fitted.

Cheers.

Lee