Guess what I own :)

[matthewsemple]

I enjoyed the large pictures - it was good to see the car in actual size.

Rigging up the projector to display them on the side of my house was a bit inconvenient though

[Craig Anderson]

I enjoyed the large pictures - it was good to see the car in actual size.

Rigging up the projector to display them on the side of my house was a bit inconvenient though

Nice one, That honistly me laugh out loud

[Craig Anderson]

Lets rebuild the carb


Some of the parts that were replaced

All together now

Now lets have a look at the inlet

inlet manifold heater is missing in this shot

inlet heater is rotted away inside out

the fuel pump is allso rotten inside as well

Xzibit has some thing to say about all of this

[Craig Anderson]

How the car looks just now with no windows



I broke the windscreen after I had taken it out but its ok as it was peeled at the bottom anyway

tailgate window removed to see how bad the rust was in the channel

it maybe save able and cheaper than replaceing it with a rimmerbros tailgate at £400

[H48HPE]

looking really good this! great to see some proper restoration going on...

[Jeff Turbo]

Excellent work that Craig

[Guest]

Runners had the tailgates in the clearance bargains section, still £120 mind!

[Craig Anderson]

Dunno were to start now as I still might need a mig welder for adding fresh metal, I do have an ark welder but I dunno if its sutable for welding on sills and quarter pannels ect.

Do I use an ark or a mig for welding on new pannels ?

And allso my monstro magazine came today along with a membership card and sticker and the constitution. Royal mail is so slow up hear anyone remmeber when they used to drive around in the daf vans with the slideing drivers door open as they were still driveing at the time

[H48HPE]

stick weldings probably a bit fierce for car body panels especially these as they are quite a bit thinner than older cars... I'd say MIG - but definitely not Gasless MIG - thats as bad as stick welding! I tried gasless mig and it was crap.... someone i drink with has suggested TIG is really good, but I've not got the money to buy one of those yet..


Andy

[PIRTEKMAN]

A mig would be neater and less prone to blowing holes.I bought a handymig gasless mig years ago from Halfrauds.I've done loads of bits and pieces with it.The wire is expensive but you don't need gas and there's only two settings,low and high.Good luck with your project Alan.

[Guest]

Yeah, don't use Arc on it, it'll be rubbarb and you'll wind yourself up! You want a MIG that can drop down to at least 30amps (20/25amps would be even better), there's real-world difference between gas and gas-less if your just doing thin-gauge stuff, if it was 3mm+ stuff then yeah gas would be better. The gas acts as a shield, so a gas-less MIG has the benefit of being better outdoors as the wind doesn't have any gas shield to blow out of the way. If you were buying a new machine I'd just go straight for a gas model, 6mm wire and CO2/Argon mix gas.

TIG is excellent on body panels as it doesn't spread out as much heat (hence distortion) and get much better overall penetration. If you measure very carefully and get you new panels nice and tightly cut to butt up against it's corresponding panel, you can just zap them together without even using filler wire, therefore a lot less post-welding clean up. TIG sets are expensive though, even inverters are £500+ and they are scratch-start only (like an Arc set). High-Frequency start with a foot pedal is where it's at for the best TIG set-up.

Another tip is try to get you weld as neat and flat as possible so you have less to grind off. Grinding creates nearly as much heat as the welding itself so just grinding the weld can warp a thin panel. Nice quick tacks, and work your way through it to join up the tacks, if you got an air supply give each tack a little blast to shrink it up straight away, if you haven't, dab it with a wet cloth soaked in a bucket of cold water. Then using a flap disc or soft pad on a grinding slowly and careful flush them back. Don't grind in one spot for too long, a quick pass over will do, you can always go back and do more when it's cooled back down again.

[H48HPE]

Another vote for CO2/Argon mix gas from me as well - much nicer to weld with.

If you decide to do gasless - then get a machine that does both gas & gasless - because after a few goes you will want gas!

also be aware of gasless machines that have a permanantly live electrode - they're even worse, well I think they are anyway, because i don't like them sparking when I don't want them too - and you tend to get that when the end is permanantly live as apposed to a trigger start one.

Gasless wire welds tend to splatter a lot more than when you use a CO2 or CO2/argon bottle.

I suppose different people will tell you different things, but thats just my thoughts.

[Craig Anderson]

Gas mig welder it is then cheers guys. looks like all be scouring ebay for one then or any were else that has one

[Craig Anderson]

Just bought a clarkie gas mig welder for the lovely price of £75 and machine mart sell the same one for £275

[Craig Anderson]

The long awaited update




As you can see I have a new sill to fit but it does not quite fit as am missing the bit at the top as the new sill does not come with this ?

(Can someone give me some insight on this issue)



Nice clean s-series block



I striped the cylinder head right down and gave it a diesel bath then sent it away for skimming then clean and polished inside and out, At the moment am putting in the valves and re-grinding them back in and all be painting it black so it looks factory fresh




The driver side hub was put through electrolysis bath to strip off the rust and the brake caliper (not pictured) got the same treatment and some welding of the body work has taken place the black paint is hammerite smooth with seam sealer underneath and the gray colour is just seam sealer.

(dont forget I need some help ideas on the replacment sill I have ?)