The Rally Maestro project

[E_T_V]

Updates from the garage

Click on the photo for a bigger version.

Two Corbeau recliners, light weight for more comfort seat belts (from Car
Builders Sollutions, www.nfauto.com - just £35 a set), and a foot rest for
the navigator now in, the seat frames were built from scratch as the
universal frames from Corbeau were considered not strong enough for
rough-roading...the silver-foil sandwich put into the roof will go under the
front carpets...a decent MG wheel is needed...

Mini van tank for longer range, but will a pipe into the main filler tube
empty the contents unaided, on gravity alone? Only testing will see if this
works - there is an off-on tape in the line...

Yes it'll work but you'll need to fill each tank seperatly and also you'll need a vent for the extra tank vented outside the car quite high up to prevent syphoning

More substantial filler tube to the Mini Van tank now in place, filled by
the rear quarter panel...

After seeing the rusty front turret earlier, the body-shop have put in massive reinforcements to the front end…

[Guest]

Thanks for sorting the techie stuff with the photos.

Syphoning - its what we want to achieve, the tank when filled (from the filler cap now in the rear quarter panel that only goes to the Mini Van tank), is hopefully going to trickle into the standard tank, as the level drops in the standard tank? Dunno if this science is going to work! But, although a lot of work (Tony Fowkes is dead keen, he even gets his lads doing a night shift and I only took it to him for a re-spray), this tank idea just seems worth a go. Inside is about to be sprayed white, and the rear passenger door welded up, for added torsional rigidity.

[E_T_V]

Yes, it'll work if you link the mini tank to the main tank with the line. However you'll still need to fill the bottom tank first, then the mini tank second via the seperate filler or you'll be there forever trying to fill it from the mini-filler alone. I'd extend both the tank breathers higher up though to avoid forcing fuel out of the original breather though when the mini tank is full.

I'd leave the doors unwelded if it were me and simply add some bars on the inside to brace it instead. But that is because I know maestro doors regularly go rusty and need replacing.

[E_T_V]

Oh yes do I spy it is still on solid discs? If so then that definatly wants changing to the vented ones at least.

[Guest]

We have some new ventilated discs from Rimmers - boy are they heavy! Surely they must increase unsprung weight, and more work for the shocks.

Trying to get the body done before moving onto the mechanical bits. We have new rear door panels (Rimmers), one rear door will be welded closed, the door handle bit has been filled, and we have the authentic coupe-look...the other left as it is, handy access to the rear. Today etch-primer has been going on the bits that have been welded in the arches around the turrets, massive amounts of extra metal and welding has gone into the turrets, and experimenting with lengths of wire-hawser (a bit like the stuff used in dinghy-boat sails), to act as axle-straps, to catch the rear axle on full drop so reducing the snatch on the rear shocks.

Peter Burgess is taking his time with the head work (he's snowed under with MGB work) - hope to get that on this coming week.

[Guest]

The exhaust is proving a bit of a headache. After the downpipe, its going up to two-inch throughout, as suggested by those who have competed in the racing championship, that's not the issue. It changes direction, slightly, with a bend to go around the sunken spare-wheel well, and this area is vulnerable as its no longer directly running in line with the direction of travel, so will snag on rocks or ruts more easily that a straight pipe. It is no easy sollution, a bit late to suggest "you should have cut the spare-wheel well out" after all the work enlarging it for 14 inch tall profile tyres. It turns around the area of the rear beam axle.

Ground clearance is no issue for the racers, but, what do they do? Come out the side?

[E_T_V]

The racers run the standard route usually.

[Guest]

Does the standard 1.6 have bump stops on the rear axle...this one doesnt seem to have any such thing.

Minded to make some...

[E_T_V]

Nope none on the rear beam, they are on the dampers instead just like the front.

[Guest]

How do we get a harder brake pedal? What do the racers do? The pedal lacks feel and a feeling of "bite".

[E_T_V]

The rear self adjusters may need freeing off. Try with the handbrake off pressing the brake pedal with the engine running and note how it feels. Then with the pedal still pressed hard, yank up the handbrake. Then release the pedal and note how the pedal feels now. If it is vastly improved the rear self adjusters may require attention.
The pedal feel is never fantastic though. You can improve it by fitting braided brake hoses (or even new hoses to replace the old ones).

[E_T_V]

N.B. The pedal feel is never fantastic though, hence brake upgrades are almost essential on the turbo version

[mgdavid]

pedal feel

there's a service kit for the servo, and also a rebuild kit. Not sure if either are still available though, you will need to hunt around. Also suggest drain and refill system with hi-spec fluid such as Castrol SRF. What pads are you using? I have some Ferodo race quality ones I can donate if you want to try them?

[Guest]

Eh? Is not a new servo and brake master cylinder not available now? Goodness, hadnt realised we would be hunting for those - not got round to thinking too much about the brakes, but now the body is on the home-straight and about to be painted, we are now pondering the rest of the car. Thanks for the brake pads idea, will they be up to road-work? Presume the only downside is braking from cold? But would last longer being harder?
All offers gratefully received.

[mgdavid]

Servo = GSM108 superseded to BAU4935EVA - nla
Servo repair kit BAU2352A is available from X-Part.

Master cyl = GMC243 (Girling 74066619) - nla
m/cyl NTC4991P1 *might* be the same, off a L/Rover Disco.