The Rally Maestro project

[Guest]

Does anyone know if the two-core radiator of the Turbo is a straight replacement fit with the ordinary 1.6 "S" with no tricky bits to fit like making up radiator hoses? If so, would this be a good move?

Are the standard radiators alloy (like just about all modern cars these days) or old-fashioned but easier to fettle brass units?

....Im sure E_T_V will be along in a mo.

[G Force]

Got the NGK plugs with the 11 on the end - do I presume they are gapped up ready to fit, straight out the box, not requiring anything on the fitter's part?

Hi Philip.

You still need to gap the new spark plugs, Set the gap at 0.038in to 0.040in.
The gap typically widens at approx 0.001in per 1000 miles. For optimum performance you should consider re-gapping @ 2000 mile intervals if this occurs in competition.

Nerdy alert! The advantage (very small though it is) of going for the (-11) variety is that, typically the normal BCPR6EV is intended for ignition systems with the plugs needing gaps of an average of 0.030in. Open this to 0.040in then there is a tendancy for the spark to happen towards the bend of the earth electrode, (the narrowest gap) where it is shrouded from the charge. You ideally want the spark between the V groove and close to the tip of the earth electode

Why not in that case choose the (-10) variety? Well you could but its just I found that they were not as easy to get hold of.

Talking of g-force, does the engine by his signature rock and roll like that because the engine-mounts are shot? Hmmm, thats worrying. What's the solution to stop excessive engine-rock on rough roads damaging the mountings?

Nahh its a supercharged methanol burning flat plane V8 drag race engine on tickover. Noo they all do that sir!

If your mountings are in good order they should be ok. The later models had a modified front mounting on the front X member, rather than the inferior snubber cup mounting. You could drill the Three round mountings and screw in a large, short self tapping screw to possitively locate the outer casing to the metalastic bush, as the bushes do have a tendancy to migrate from the housing causing excess vibration.

[Chris Y]

Does anyone know if the two-core radiator of the Turbo is a straight replacement fit with the ordinary 1.6 "S" with no tricky bits to fit like making up radiator hoses? If so, would this be a good move?

Are the standard radiators alloy (like just about all modern cars these days) or old-fashioned but easier to fettle brass units?

....Im sure E_T_V will be along in a mo.

I'm no rad expert, but on my race car, I've replaced the 1.6 radiator with a 2.0 EFI unit, which is taller. Consequently I've replaced the slam panel with the shallower version from the 2 litre cars.

Now I suspect that the turbo rads use the same mountings - so same slam panel, BUT, I suspect they're narrower side-to-side, to account for an intercooler.

Therefore if you're not using an intercooler, there will be some wasted space, which is made up for with the two-core design of the rad. Personally though, I'd just fit a 2 litre rad, which makes more use of the available front surface area. They're (I think!) more available than the turbo rads.

As for the engine mounts, basically what Gary said! I've replaced the front snubber with the later front mount, which just entails whipping off the alternator bolts, then removing the mount from the shell, and fitting the new one. I did this because the snubber moved too much and sheared the metalastic mount on the gearbox/subframe at the rear. Since I fitted the later mount - no more trouble with the rear mount.

[E_T_V]

Does anyone know if the two-core radiator of the Turbo is a straight replacement fit with the ordinary 1.6 "S" with no tricky bits to fit like making up radiator hoses? If so, would this be a good move?

Are the standard radiators alloy (like just about all modern cars these days) or old-fashioned but easier to fettle brass units?

....Im sure E_T_V will be along in a mo.

Assuming that your car isn't a really early 1.6 with the deeper slam panel, I'm guessing Chris's car might have been an early one, then the turbo and the 1.6 rad are interchangable, well on the 1.6 they are, on the turbo they'll overheat!.

Early units had brass ends, most have plastic ones though.
Turbo radiators are very hard to find. My source of them had ran out last time I spoke to him.

[Guest]

There seems nothing wrong with the radiator, but its been standing for many years, so the feeling in the team is that we should uprate it with either a standard two litre EFi or, if we can find one, a turbo rad...bigger capacity will cope with severe heat of Africa better - but, nothing is on ebay or Rimmers at the mo - any leads on where we can find a new one?

[E_T_V]

The standard EFI/diesel one will need hose mods as it is the full width.

The only "straight" upgrade is the turbo rad which is VERY hard to find and indeed I'm not sure if there are available anymore.

[Guest]

What is the radiator actually made of? Were they still using brass or had they moved over to alloy and plastic like just about every modern car these days (which is harder to repair in the wild, but lighter and perhaps a touch better in cooling). Has anyone got this sort of detail spec to hand?

[E_T_V]

Some of the early ones are brass (hard to find), most of the latter ones are alloy and plastic.

[Guest]

Had a good look at the radiator in a visit to the Tony Fowkes workshop today. The rad goes up to the top with no gap above, this being a Jan 86 model presume an "early" turbo rad is not going to fit? Certainly I can see that a wider rad would also be an equally good move, plenty of room on the near-side of the radiator for it to extend, we have removed the plastic blanking sheet that covers this gap for more airflow at the moment.

It seems to be a plastic/alloy rad as E_T_V suggests above.

Interestingly, the electric fan on the front covers one half of the rad, would a small electric fan on the other half not be a useful move? I fear these fans could only inhibit airflow tho. Pros and cons, hmmm. The rest in the workshop think a bigger radiator is a must.

[E_T_V]

If you are happy to make up the pipe extensions needed then the 2 litre EFI/diesel radiator is the one you are after as this is full width and full height.

[E_T_V]

The turbo rad would fit and wouldn't need mods but finding one would be tricky. Finding a diesel/EFI rad should be fairly easy.

[Guest]

Is the standard ignition-pack up to all this - is the electronics box good enough for a journey of nearly 10,000 miles the length of Africa? Is there an alternative, like going back to something more basic, or do we stick with it? The mild tuning to the engine, (lots of work on the head and porting, older HS6 carburettor, and better exhaust), presumably is not going to now effect the standard management-system? Or do I need something from an MG 1600 s-series model?

...The electrics worry me greatly - in part because the two drivers struggle to change a light bulb (all will be revealed next week on that).

[E_T_V]

Latest pic updates from Phil.

Strut reinforcement and gets painted too

Also reinforcement of bumpers to take greater punishment.

[E_T_V]

Is the standard ignition-pack up to all this - is the electronics box good enough for a journey of nearly 10,000 miles the length of Africa? Is there an alternative, like going back to something more basic, or do we stick with it? The mild tuning to the engine, (lots of work on the head and porting, older HS6 carburettor, and better exhaust), presumably is not going to now effect the standard management-system? Or do I need something from an MG 1600 s-series model?

...The electrics worry me greatly - in part because the two drivers struggle to change a light bulb (all will be revealed next week on that).

Standard ECU is VERY reliable. If in doubt get a spare and zip tie it to the original, but I don't think you'll need it.

Take a spare rotor arm or two and a distributor cap aswell but otherwise the only other item is the crank sensor which is again generally relaible.

On the subject of using an older carb, does the carb come with a choke, and also I presume someone is going to be setting it up on a rolling road as swapping the carb is likely to upset the fuelling just a tad!

[E_T_V]

At last the welding torch has been put down and the car starts getting paint, including all the reinforcement that has been put in.