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  • #31
    Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post

    Did you just swop the relays over as that won't work? They're also not the same as a normal relay but you probably know that
    Yes tried spare / swapped around original relays ( Bosch metal ones) got fuel pump relay to energise
    but not much else, tried remanufactured ECU same type au1313.
    Got power to ECU , earths are ok , 12v to relays but on power to fuel pump. Fast check say rest of components are ok. Now reaching my limits on auto electrics.
    Thanks for your help Jeff. Alan.

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    • #32
      If you've got the pump to prime then at least one of your relays is working. Have you tried a multimeter on the relay connections.? Checking the in and out wires to see if you're getting power out and not just in? Brown wires are power in, relay with white and pink is main relay, wires with blue and red that connect to the resistor is fuel relay. Have you also checked the inertia switch?
      Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 21st March 2021, 17:44.
      1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
      1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Undercover for the winter
      1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
      2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
      2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
      2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done and giving to the Mrs

      Comment


      • #33
        Sorry not getting fuel pump to prime, but got to fuel pump relay to energise.
        and power to ECU in car . Inertia switch ok , also checked out on "fast check".
        Really not got power past ECU ! Broke in to loom in car to get to feed to fuel pump to test for 12v . No power on green - white feed to pump when cranking over engine.
        Alan.

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by efi 2.0 View Post
          Sorry not getting fuel pump to prime, but got to fuel pump relay to energise.
          and power to ECU in car . Inertia switch ok , also checked out on "fast check".
          Really not got power past ECU ! Broke in to loom in car to get to feed to fuel pump to test for 12v . No power on green - white feed to pump when cranking over engine.
          Alan.
          This does all point to duff fuel relays or ecu Alan. You can get replacements as they're the same as early v8 range rovers and are brown in colour. Your fast check, is it the one that plugs into the fuel ecu in the passenger footwell or the one that plugs into the ignition ecu as that won't test the relays?
          Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 21st March 2021, 19:33.
          1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
          1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Undercover for the winter
          1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
          2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
          2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
          2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done and giving to the Mrs

          Comment


          • #35
            Thanks Jeff, it's the one that plugs in to fuel ECU in passenger foot well , fast check that let you energise the relays.
            Think we bought new ,one of those Bosch brown fuel relays.
            Will give it a try tomorrow.
            If you could my, under standing is that the fuel pump relay primes the pump .
            Hence pump runs up the fuel pressure in the rail.
            Then powers ECU, and main relay.
            With the resistor dropping the voltage down. Taking over running of the engine.
            Car ran fine before.
            Any help is much appreciated Jeff.
            Thanks Alan.
            Ps , don't like to be defeated

            Comment


            • #36
              Fuel pump/main relays are the same as AFU2913L nothing else other than that part number will work from memory and just to be sure I would buy 2 and put both on it .
              When you switch the ignition on, the pump primes via the inertia switch and pin 18 on the fuel ecu and pin 9 in the ignition ecu to the pump relay, the fuel ecu energises the fuel pump relay via the resistor to the pump. The ecu runs the pump to build pressure and earths the fuel ecu via pin 4 and that energises the air flow meter, injectors and pin 23 on the ignition ecu. When cranking over the inputs are road speed data at pin 6, coolant temp at pin 10, throttle at pin 22, air flow meter at pin 21 which in turn controls the in line speed resistor at pin 13. bit complicated but thats how it works,
              Your fast check should be number SMD4054? That checks all sensors and relays as it has a fuel pump test and will also check the injectors.
              You may need a hand doing this check and after plugging in.
              Set the selector switch to OFF and switch on ignition, these green light should light up, BATT, THROTTLE POT, AUTO SWITCH, INERTIA SWITCH
              Move the selector switch to MAIN RELAY, now COIL, AIR STEPPER, COOLANT, SPEED XDUCER should also light up not red ones, Press INJECTORS button and they should operate and light up, after that. Move the selector switch to FUEL RELAY again all green should light up and the pump should prime. move back to MAIN RELAY and you should hear a click on the relay, press INJECTORS to operate the injectors, switch back to FUEL RELAY and you should again hear a click from the fuel relay and the fuel pump should be working.If one or the other doesn't click etc thats the duff one.
              Just a small thought, is there enough fuel in it?
              Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 22nd March 2021, 09:59.
              1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
              1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Undercover for the winter
              1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
              2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
              2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
              2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done and giving to the Mrs

              Comment


              • #37
                WOW, Jeff, you got some knowledge. Should get round to garage this week let you know.
                Thanks again Alan.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by efi 2.0 View Post
                  WOW, Jeff, you got some knowledge. Should get round to garage this week let you know.
                  Thanks again Alan.
                  Thanks I've had a few of these cars since they came out and I know a little bit, others know much more, I read up on various problems posted up if I don't know it off hand and ive also got a few fast checks I've used a few times. Most problems with maestros and montegos are now common and posted up somewhere on the forum over the years and if possible I will help
                  Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 23rd March 2021, 12:36.
                  1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
                  1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Undercover for the winter
                  1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
                  2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                  2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
                  2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done and giving to the Mrs

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    New relays ordered, this afternoon for maestro.
                    My dad used to lend company cars , from where he worked ,so used to come home in new maestro hle , 1.6L , models. Or a Sherpa delux van.
                    But was about to young then to work on them , do remember washing them . Let you know how I get on .
                    Thanks Alan.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Tried new relays this afternoon, but still no joy.
                      Going to connect rebuilt ECU tomorrow. Try fast check again ! Multi meter died this afternoon so could not get much more done.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by efi 2.0 View Post
                        Tried new relays this afternoon, but still no joy.
                        Going to connect rebuilt ECU tomorrow. Try fast check again ! Multi meter died this afternoon so could not get much more done.
                        Well that's a bummer, at least you've ruled out the relays now
                        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. Away for the winter
                        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Undercover for the winter
                        1984 MG Montego EFi in black. Digital dash, nearly finished
                        2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                        2004 MGZT V8. Love this car
                        2004 MGZT V8, project for the winter nearly done and giving to the Mrs

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          We get there , did not get round to maestro this aft will try in week.
                          Going to start from the battery and ignition switch and work towards the fuel pump.
                          If still can't find the fault will get car picked up and taken to a garage. But can't help feeling it's something simple?
                          Hi

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                          • #43
                            One thought, if power is getting to relays but not pump, could it be the connections at the resistor? I have seen broken wires that were hard to spot in the insulators on spade connector. The wires at the pump end of the resistor are the last link in the chain, so may be worth a look (if you haven't already). Thre are various different metals involved in the connections there too iirc, combined with temperature variations at resistor can lead to corrosion....good luck!

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