Clutch Adjustment

[G4GLM]

You should get yourself up to Yorkshire Jeff, we have colour tv's now!

[G Force]

http://maestro.org.uk/forums/forum/t...arbox-oil-leak this may help. I've never had to change the seal but Gary has. So with luck he maybe here soon to advise. I have to assume though it's just prise the old one out, clean around the opening and put a new one in. You should be able to do that without removing the gearbox again

Hi, yes that's right Jeff. Once you have drifted the scroll pin out and removed the gear selector linkage, the seal can be prised out being careful not to damage the selector rod surface. Drift the new seal back in with a suitable deep socket.

To reset the clutch cable, this is the way I always do it.

Leave the circlip for the spring in place. Locate the clutch release arm on the gearbox and press down firmly towards the floor, you will feel and hear the adjuster ratchet release as you do this. On letting the pressure off of the clutch release arm the large spring should start to remove the play out of the cable. Often just the spring pressure won't be enough on its own so you can assist it by pulling on the outer cable with a little bit of force, you will often hear the adjuster ratchet click a few more times. The clutch pedal should then sit level with the brake pedal.


Cheers, Gary

[Sussex Pete]

Hi, yes that's right Jeff. Once you have drifted the scroll pin out and removed the gear selector linkage, the seal can be prised out being careful not to damage the selector rod surface. Drift the new seal back in with a suitable deep socket.

To reset the clutch cable, this is the way I always do it.

Leave the circlip for the spring in place. Locate the clutch release arm on the gearbox and press down firmly towards the floor, you will feel and hear the adjuster ratchet release as you do this. On letting the pressure off of the clutch release arm the large spring should start to remove the play out of the cable. Often just the spring pressure won't be enough on its own so you can assist it by pulling on the outer cable with a little bit of force, you will often hear the adjuster ratchet click a few more times. The clutch pedal should then sit level with the brake pedal.


Cheers, Gary

Thanks for the clarification Gary. I'll probably get around to that tomorrow, when the weather will be less kind for outdoor jobs. Strange that I can't find a mention about changing this seal in either the Rover or the Haynes manual, or even removing the selector rod. Presumably it was seen as such a minor issue that it was not worthy of an explanation!

[Sussex Pete]

New CV Joint arrived today. Turns out it is the wrong one! Advertised as being for the Montego Turbo, actually just for the ordinary MG. For clarification the basic MG Shaftec CV joint part number is CV16N. The one for the Turbo (Montego and Maestro) is CV17N. Tried a few other suppliers as well as Shaftec themselves and there are no CV17N's available anywhere.

Has anyone got one lying around going spare? Pretty please!

[Sussex Pete]

Once you have drifted the scroll pin out and removed the gear selector linkage, the seal can be prised out being careful not to damage the selector rod surface. Drift the new seal back in with a suitable deep socket.

As a further clarification, to anyone who needs to this in-situ, the old boot and seal can be removed easily with judicious use of a pair of screw drivers, first to flip the boot off and then to lever against the gearbox casing to remove the old seal. To replace the new seal requires a deep-ish socket (I used a spark plug socket) and then a lever against the crossmember to press the new seal into position. A bit of lubrication on the outer face will help it slide into place. Then a gentle warming of the boot lip will help in putting it in place around the seal flange, otherwise the rubber is too rigid to lever over the seal edge.

[Sussex Pete]

To reset the clutch cable, this is the way I always do it.

Leave the circlip for the spring in place. Locate the clutch release arm on the gearbox and press down firmly towards the floor, you will feel and hear the adjuster ratchet release as you do this. On letting the pressure off of the clutch release arm the large spring should start to remove the play out of the cable. Often just the spring pressure won't be enough on its own so you can assist it by pulling on the outer cable with a little bit of force, you will often hear the adjuster ratchet click a few more times. The clutch pedal should then sit level with the brake pedal.


Cheers, Gary[IMG]

Followed your instructions Gary and heard the adjuster ratchet click. All seems Ok, except that clutch engagement is still at the bottom and I noticed that although the clutch pedal is in line with the brake pedal, I can pull it upwards with no resistance. That, to me, seems as though the adjuster isn't doing its job properly, so the pedal is moving within the slot at the pedal end of the cable. Anything more I can do, or just get myself a new clutch cable? Also wondering if an EFi cable has been fitted rather than a Turbo one, and would that make the difference?

[E_T_V]

EFI and turbo cable is the same as far as I know.

[Sussex Pete]

EFI and turbo cable is the same as far as I know.

According to the EPC they have a different part number, which is what prompted me to ask the question. The one for the Turbo is GVC5025, whereas the 2000/EFi is GVC5064 (supercedes GVC5024).

[E_T_V]

The difference is the little rubber grommet that slips over the cable outside to restrain it on some models. The business bits are the same I believe.

[Sussex Pete]

Just fitted the new clutch cable. Couldn't see any design difference between the fitted one and the new, except I found after removing the old one that I could slide the ratchet part in and out of the bulkead fitting with little or no resistence. That probably explains my lack of clutch adjustment and engagement at the bottom of the pedal! New one is fine and clutch bite point is just below half pedal. So all OK now.

[Jeff Turbo]

Very good, and getting there, just in time for the winter salt Pete when you use it lol

[Sussex Pete]

Very good, and getting there, just in time for the winter salt Pete when you use it lol

IF it passes its MOT on Monday, then there are only a couple of trips planned before it gets put away for winter. So, no Jeff, it won't be seeing any winter salt! lol