Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2.0i EFi manifold removal - also cam cover gasket

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2.0i EFi manifold removal - also cam cover gasket

    I'm in the process of changing the exhaust downpipe and of course the studs snapped or I had to grind them off.

    So it looks like I have to take inlet and exhaust out to get decent access to stuck studs, then drill out and replace.

    The bolts on the exhaust are rusty and I'm a bit worried about them snapping. Any tips?

    Finally - can't seem to track down a cam cover gasket for 2.0 EFi. Can I get away with cleaning faces then using (high temp) silicone sealant? Eg the red stuff sometimes used for sumps.

  • #2
    There is no cam cover gasket, RTV sealant (same thing as the silicon sump sealant) is the right thing to use according to the Rover manual, so you had actually chosen the right stuff! The best thing for the bolts would be heat, but not really practical with all the petrol pipes being nearby. Next best is to spray them with penetrating oil twice (or more) a day for as many days as you can manage. The best stuff I've ever tried is Arrow 'super slaks', the first time I saw it was at work, the tin there came from Kellingley colliery when it closed..I was very impressed, so bought myself some from an aviation supply place..it is expensive and not readily available, but did seem to work on the steel bolts into alloy that I used it on. This is where I got mine https://transair.co.uk/aeroshell/arr...er-slaks-600ml. but worth checking for local suppliers I guess.. Good luck!

    Comment


    • #3
      As above no cam cover gasket. Those exhaust manifold bolts look like a world of pain so it maybe worth removing the cylinder head and leave the exhaust and inlet on the head and going from there. It's not difficult to remove all as one. Bit of a faf but you'll be able to access all with it removed.
      1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
      1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
      1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
      2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
      2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
      2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
        As above no cam cover gasket. Those exhaust manifold bolts look like a world of pain so it maybe worth removing the cylinder head and leave the exhaust and inlet on the head and going from there. It's not difficult to remove all as one. Bit of a faf but you'll be able to access all with it removed.
        That sounds like the best method, head would be to take off anyway if the manifold bolts snapped..

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post
          That sounds like the best method, head would be to take off anyway if the manifold bolts snapped..
          Well, with hindsight, I'd say you're probably right - and access to head bolts is easier than the stuff at the back of the engine. However I persevered and managed to drill out the remains of the stuck studs with the head in situ. I tried heating first, drilled out with reverse drill bits, and even tried half decent stud removers - no dice.

          There is just room to get my drill in between the bulkhead and the manifold, though I did resort to a 90 degree drill attachment at one point. Once drilled out to 6.8mm I then used M8 tap to clean the thread and it seems to be strong enough.

          While in there I took the opportunity to clean up the rusty coolant pipe and manifold support struts - they obviously get too hot for the paint which then peels off. I've only got blue high temp paint - red would be better but blue will have to do!

          For future reference I did successfully remove a couple of studs from the manifold to downpipe flange with an impact stud remover - it's like a reverse drill chuck that grips onto the stud harder as you apply anti-clockwise torque. Unfortunately it didn't work on the head studs and just machined one down instead of gripping on. Anyway, a useful last resort if you're struggling.

          Comment


          • #6
            Well done but I would have removed the head as it would be easier. Glad you sorted it. Just make sure the exhaust manifold is flat before putting back on as they can bow with age
            Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 24th October 2022, 14:04.
            1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
            1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
            1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
            2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
            2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
            2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

            Comment


            • #7
              I had the same on my consul this morning putting my stainless exhaust manifold on and used the same thing i've had for years
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 24th October 2022, 14:06.
              1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
              1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
              1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
              2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
              2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
              2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
                I had the same on my consul this morning putting my stainless exhaust manifold on and used the same thing i've had for years
                Yeah that's the same thing I tried but it just chewed the stud down unfortunately. It did get a couple of the downpipe studs out though, so wins points for that.

                Nice Consul!

                Comment

                Working...
                X