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  • engine stud

    Good morning, when I replaced the gasket of the collectors, the collector stud on the side of the water pump was split. Where can I get a replacement? also interesting to know the tightening torque

  • #2
    I'm assuming you are reffering to the bolts that hold the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head. If I am correct with that, then there are two different bolts used. There is FB108081 that are used at the top and there are 2 of them, and FS108281 which I think is the one you have a problem with and they are used at the very outside mounting holes of the exhaust manifold. Problem is that I cannot find anyone who has a stock of that part. You can also use LYG10020 which should be available from an Xpart distributor like Rimmers. Apologies if I have totally misunderstodd what you are looking for.
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    • #3
      es esxactamente eso, muchas gracias Could it be this? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LYG10025

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      • #4
        Do you mean what goes in this?
        Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 30th May 2018, 17:48.
        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
        1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
        2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
        2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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        • #5
          I mean this Click image for larger version

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          • #6
            Just use studding and cut to suit
            1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
            1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
            1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
            2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
            2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
              Just use studding and cut to suit
              you sure Jeff? As they go into the ally head aren't they coarse thread one end and fine thread the other?
              (if Imperial size they would be but I'm not sure if Metric works the same way?)
              midget1380@btinternet.com

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              • #8
                Yeah im sure David, The thread is the same as you can put either side in. With the proper part one side of the thread is longer than the other, but the tread is the same. Ive done this many times before
                1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have disassembled the collectors since I split the bolt, also observe a small stain came from the head gasket, is this possible? Or are they simply stains from the old drain of the collectors?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Juanmacandel View Post
                    I have disassembled the collectors since I split the bolt, also observe a small stain came from the head gasket, is this possible? Or are they simply stains from the old drain of the collectors?
                    If you have water stains there, it's either the thermostat housing leaking at the joint with the head, water leaking out from the headgasket so check the water ways in the head, or rear water pipe can cause that . If oil stains then leaking headgasket
                    1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                    1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                    1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                    2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                    2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have proceeded with the extraction of the cylinder head, I took out all the accessories and the 10 screws, the butt wobbles but does not come out. Is there something that prevents me from extracting it? Is it necessary to remove the valve cover?

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                      • #12
                        I put some pictures to help Click image for larger version

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                        • #13
                          Whats stopping it from coming off is probably the 2 metal dowels that centralize the head to the block. If you push the head back and forth or hit the head with a soft hammer it should loosen the dowels. Also check the bottom bolts on the inner cam cover plate. (The black metal plate) as one might bolt into the engine block. You do not need to remove the cam cover. You also have not timed the crank and cam pulley before you removed the cambelt. The 2 dots on the cam pulley should line up with the hole at the top of the inner cam cover plate and the crank pulley has a small cut out that should line up with the pointer from the engine block so I hope have marked the crank pulley aswell
                          Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 8th June 2018, 12:09.
                          1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                          1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                          1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                          2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                          2004 MGZT V8. I love this car

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Click image for larger version

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ID:	326151 thank you very much jeff, I got the engine butt and I started to investigate by the cams and I took a surprise a cam is cracked, what should be? Can it be dangerous? It can be fixed?
                            Last edited by Juanmacandel; 8th June 2018, 20:46.

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                            • #15

                              I want the gaskests and seals for the engine head. the article is for 1984-85 engines. my engine is from 1993. the camshaft seals and the rest of the gaskets will be the same? The head gasket is the same?


                              https://m.ebay.es/itm/MAESTRO-HEAD-G....c100408.m2460

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