2.0TD Sudden Power Loss

[robert1]

The head gasket set will have them.

[Martingo]

I received the head gasket set from the guy in Portugal - very nice kit!

I've been reading the manual about cylinder head removal, there's a lot of stuff to take off. Think I will also need to remove the Land Rover front and radiator to get access to all the timing belt stuff. I sort of think it makes sense to change the belt while I'm doing this. Also camshaft seals seeing as they came in the kit + tappet check etc. There's probably dozens of questions I will need to ask but for now these are the ones running round in my head.

Thinking about the timing setting (when it goes back together) I can see the camshaft has the pin and the injection pump pulley has the 'A' or 'B' mark to line up but also there is the crankshaft pin on the standard engine. As you know this engine is in a land rover conversion to a different conversion plate between the engine and LR gearbox. As yet I can not find a pin hole on the plate to locate the flywheel position. There is the thought that as long as I put it back as it is and not move anything when the camshaft belt is off but it's a risky business! Anyone know how the crankshaft position is done of Land Rover?

I also see that the there is a method to fine tune the timing through the injection pump using a DTI. Can anyone point me to a DTI kit that suites this engine - there's lots on ebay!

Also I was reading about the tappet clearance and the manual gives several engine types with various clearances - again because this is a LR conversion I do not know which I would work to. As yet I've never found an engine number but maybe it will turn up when the head is off?

Cheers

[Doctordiesel77]

I just had a look at mine & can't see a flywheel pin hole, if yours is the same as my one then the starter is behind the injector pump. The hole, if there is one should be below the oil filler pipe, right beside the starter, but I think you are right, there isn't one! Worth checking the other side of the engine though, as Perkins say it could be on either side, depending on application...When you have the head off, check that 1 and 4 are at tdc (preferably with a dial gauge) and put your own mark on, I'd be tempted to take starter off and either mark a flywheel tooth, or make a bracket up to lock the flywheel at tdc. The cold tappet clearances are the same on all models, Rover list it as 10-14 thou inlet, 14-18 exhaust..interestingly Perkins give the same figures with head fitted to block, but if head is not fitted to block they reckon that clearances should be 2 thou bigger (ie 12-16 in, 16-20 ex). The injector pump timing does vary though, there are a choice of 6 settings, luckily the car turbo engine only has two variations though, 1mm (single stage injectors) or 1.2mm (two stage)...the imperial version is 39 thou with single stage injectors, 47 with two stage according to Perkins, or 40 thou and 50 thou according to Rover, I guess they converted from metric as they agree on 1 or 1.2 mm. Any of the ebay timing kits that cover the bosch ve pump should do the job, there isn't much in the way on Land Rover version, as it won't have power steering. iirc the kits need the injector pipes taking off.. good luck!

[Martingo]

I’ve eventually got round to stripping the head off. Few problems, getting the crankshaft pulley was a nightmare! Anyway the photo below confirms that the head gasket had gone between 2 and 3 cylinders.

I will need to get few parts for the rebuild so if anyone can advise on new cam belt and glow plugs to start, spec and where to get them etc

[Doctordiesel77]

Unipart number for belt is GTB1190, there are Gates ones on ebay for about £25 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314761048976 but may be worth asking at local motor factors. iirc Dayco made some of te oem ones. Glow plugs are a common size, this ebay listing has a list of other things they fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165076808802

[Martingo]

Thanks for the links.

I was also looking at adding the vapour separator as robert1 suggested. I can see there are three connections, obviously in and out, is the third connection just a vent or does it have to go back to tank? I did ask the seller on eBay what the pipe size was but he didn’t know or want to find out, assume they take same hose as the lift pump etc.

cheers

[robert1]

It go's back to the tank, the Montego's have a restricted pushed into the hose, I think this is to make bleeding easier.

[Doctordiesel77]

As above the pipe is connected to the return line to the tank. It is important to get the pipes the right way around, as the return is at the top of the vapour separator so as to let the air back to the tank, the restrictor is important too, without it there will be no fuel pressure at the injector pump inlet.

[Martingo]

I think for now I will not fit the vapour separator, I’m doing so many thing all at the same time. It wouldn’t be easy to run another return pipe, can it be tee into existing return? Doesn’t seem possible to me. Also if the restrictor allows pressure at the injector pump how does the air get out.

I was looking at the valve clearance yesterday before I take all the valves out for cleaning, maybe grinding. I was using the method of one at a time with all the other followers and shims out - I haven’t tried all yet but I assume there is a cam position where you can check all 8 valves using this method?

anyway when I looked I’d my Haynes manual is states 0.2 - 0.4mm inlet and 0.3 - 0.5mm exhaust. These are different values to those you gave in a previous message, obviously taking into account metric/imperial. Also in the manual it gives ‘checking’ and ‘adjusting’ values which I don’t understand.

cheers

[Martingo]

I think the Heynes manual is misleading, the values above are given as ‘checking’ but when I looked again at the ‘adjusting’ figures they agree with those given in a previous post. I think the Heynes manual is wrong way around and this is confirmed in the Perkins data I have, though it’s not a full manual.

After checking 7 out of 8 clearances they are all generally low, worst are a 7 thou on inlet and a 7 thou on exhaust. So how the hell do you adjust these things , you need a big bag of assorted shims! Can you actually buy them?

[Doctordiesel77]

Rimmer's sell the shims, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-UKC1713, they are the same as Rover SD1 6 cylinder, Dolomite Sprint, O series petrol, Hillman Imp etc, so if you know anyone with one of those they should have a shim stock, usually you can juggle the existing ones to do at least half of the valves, but rarely all of them! I've got some shims if you can't find them locally/Rimmers postage is expensive.. On the vapour separator the air escapes through the restrictor as it is less viscous than the diesel, return is usually just tee ed into the return from the injector pump.

[Martingo]

Thank for the info! Rimmer do lots of shims, bit of a crazy system but I guess once it’s done I shouldn’t have to do it again. Do you tend to aim at the minimum or middle clearance, in the theory the clearance will increase due to wear? Maybe that’s not the case seeing as most of mine are low on clearance

as you said I can probably use 4 of them again. I’m doing a clean up and very light seat grinding before a final measure.

some of the inlet ports are pretty gunked up which might be poor valve clearance or maybe valve stem seals which I have in the head kit anyway.

[Martingo]

Sorry to keep coming back on the valve clearance but I just want to check on the procedure.

I was thinking that the final check on clearance should be with head completely rebuild onto the block, however this isn’t possible in the Land Rover because the back of the camshaft and cover are hard up against the bulkhead. So the shaft, cover and seals need to be all assemble onto the head before the head is back on the block! So this mean the clearance checks and any adjustment has to be done with the head on the bench.

I don’t have any clamps for the camshaft I’m checking as suggested with all the followers and shims out, except the one I’m checking. This means that the shaft is just held down by hand while I check the clearance which is not as it would be in reality. With everything in place and the cover on the camshaft must get pushed and pulled by the other cam actions which would effect the clearance value? Also there is the business about Perkins saying increase the clearance if the head is off the block

[Doctordiesel77]

I generally aim for the tight end of the 'off the block' clearances, there is a fair bit of leeway on their figures anyway & I've never had any problems with valves after doing them that way.

[Martingo]

Can I just go back to the vapour separator piping. Because I can see the return pipe at the moment I was thinking to add a tee into the return pipe so I can add the separator in the future.

The return pipe I’m going to tap into is the return line from the injector pump. I tried to find the restrictor mention but had no luck, can anyone point me to the sort of thing I need. I also assume the restrictor will sit in the line from the separator but before the tee I’m adding, therefore the existing return from the pump is unaffected?

cheers