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Cylinder head removal

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  • #31
    The thing with flushing it with the hose is that the water is under pressure; it wouldn't be quite the same using a watering can....

    and who's going to call the waterboard to 'dob you in' after all this rain? Better still, do it when it's raining!

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    • #32
      Hit a slight snag when refitting the manifolds to the head yesterday. Whilst tightening the nuts to the recomended T-wrench setting, one of the studs snapped I managed to salvage the ones out of the old head, but I don't want to risk snapping another one. So, should I just do the nuts\bolts up just over hand tight, or do I need to T-wrench them to the correct setting?

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      • #33
        So, now i'm just about ready to refit the cylinder head back in the car But i'm just wondering which would be better option re: refitting the manifolds. Fit them to the head whilst it's still on the bench, or fit them when the head is back in the car?

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        • #34
          I'd go for the 'off car' fit, ie fit as much as you can before putting it back; surely it would be easier.... more accessible.....

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          • #35
            A neighbour of mine recomends putting a light smeer of greese on the manifolds and head to help seal the gasket. Is he correct?

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            • #36
              In my experience the manifold gasket needs to have some sealant on both sides to help seal.But I've never put sealant on the head and most manuals I've read don't recommend or suggest it.
              HTH
              HenryR

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              • #37
                No, Not on the cylinder head gasket. if thats what you think I mean. I know not to do that. I mean the inlet\exhaust manifolds to cylinder head gasket.

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                • #38
                  Got the head on now, after a bit of a struggle. Only got the altenator, dizzy cap, plugs,coolent & cam belt to do now. At lest the hard bits done. T-wrenched the head first to 30lb then 60lb and left it at that, as my friend who was doing it said he did not want to risk going any further as the bolts are not new!. He was afraid the bolts might not take the final 1/4 turn, He says this will be ok. is he correct?

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Terry
                    Got the head on now, after a bit of a struggle. Only got the altenator, dizzy cap, plugs,coolent & cam belt to do now. At lest the hard bits done. T-wrenched the head first to 30lb then 60lb and left it at that, as my friend who was doing it said he did not want to risk going any further as the bolts are not new!. He was afraid the bolts might not take the final 1/4 turn, He says this will be ok. is he correct?
                    Don't think 60lb is enough. On a 2lt 60lb is only the 2nd stage and further 60 degrees or up to 80lb is required. If you only tighten it up to 60lb the head gasket might blow at a later date and all your work will have been for nothing.
                    1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                    1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                    1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                    2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
                    2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                    2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

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                    • #40
                      Jeff Turbo

                      Mine is a 1.6L. Anyway. Head refit is done, no oil or coolent leaks so far. However. I do have one slight problem to resolve. When I first restared the car it took a while to start due to there being no fuel in the carb. The car then ran nice and smooth up to normal running temp. However, the car is now very slow to start and there is only a small amount of fuel in the inline filter. Once started, the engine then only runs for a few minutes and hunts then slowly dies, unless I turn up the idle speed but it is then dleing to fast. My friend says he only fitted the spark plugs "hand tight". I am wondering if they may have worked a bit loose? All the vacuum pipes\hoses are conected. Oh, I don't have a heat sheild on the inlet manifold as it fell to bits. Could it also be that it needs that extra 1\4 turn on the head?

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                      • #41
                        Terry, I know it's a 1.6. I'm going by what I know about a 2.0 as a guide for you, the 1.6 torque settings shouldn't be that much different I would have thought. If i'm wrong i'm wrong but it can't be that different. 60lbs is not much
                        1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                        1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                        1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                        2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
                        2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                        2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

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                        • #42
                          Sorry mate. No offence ment. My friend, who was going the head bolts did not want to risk them snapping by giving them the extra 1.4. Maybe he was wrong?.

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                          • #43
                            No offence taken Terry.
                            I have now looked it up in one of my Montego service manuals.
                            You have to take it to the third stage i'm afraid. And the third stage is the same as a 2lt.
                            I would tighten them if it was me, as the pressure that will build when using the engine will blow the gasket as some stage. If you don't, good luck with it.
                            1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
                            1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
                            1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
                            2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
                            2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
                            2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car

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                            • #44
                              Terry,
                              Jeff is right you need to go the whole hog, I've never had a bolt snap when I tighten them down. You are much more likely to snap one when you are undoing, particularly if they've not been undone before. If you are that worried perhaps you should get new bolts but unless they look in very bad condition I would think you will be ok. If you don't tighten them down full you will have a blown gasket for sure and then you start over again.
                              HTH
                              HenryR

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                              • #45
                                Ok guys. The bolts look in good nick, I even cleaned all the crud of the theads with a wire brush in my drill and lightly oiled them before fitting. I'll try giving them the extra 1\4 turn. Jeff Turbo You are correct, I checked in my monty service manual and the T-wrench settings are the same for the 1.6 & 2.0L. So do I just set the T-wrench to 60lb (second stage) and then just turn it 1\4 more after it's clicked?
                                Last edited by Terry; 16th October 2006, 10:48.

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