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  • NNNNNNiiiiiiiCCCCeeeeee!
    *****MG Maestro Turbo # 496*****
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    FourNineSix

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    • What is it rated to 300ftlb?
      www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
      www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
      www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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      • They gave instances or over 400ftlb on a 4wd system, I have seen people give ratings of 350ftlb but as I say after talking to them they wouldn't give a fixed rating only giving instances where the torque handled was over 400ftlb.

        Seems like a good reliable clutch, they say 5x the life of a standard clutch, so either I give it prolonged abuse and it lasts 100k or I use it normally and it outlasts the engine!

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        • Kestral usually build it to your spec. Some people went for 300ftlb versions, some went for 350! The difference is usually how much friction material is cut away on the friction disc.
          www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
          www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
          www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

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          • That sounds odd, they didn't give any choice,

            Them:'here is a clutch'

            Me: 'Ok what power is it good for? Im currently running 279 with level torque values, I'm aiming for around or just over the 300 mark.'

            Them:'Oh that will be fine, we have people running over 400 on a 4wd setup which puts a much greater strain on the clutch than a 2wd gearbox so at 300 you will be safe.'

            I had a quick look on Grant's site which seemed to be identical clutches, he had a 270ftlb version and I think a 350.

            The guy with Drew's 1.4 forged k series has an identical clutch, I'm sure he said it was rated at 350

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            • I think I put grant onto kestral and he now gets his from their. The diesel crew used them for high torque where 250ftlb is a fairly normal mildly tuned car!

              Motobuild actually sell the diesel clutch as an upgrade for the T16 turbo!

              I think the diesel ones were usually 300 or 350ftlb. I'm guessing they had one lying about from an incomplete order as they are usually made to order.

              How much was it if it isn't a rude question?

              I went the helix paddle route for my diesel if I ever need it but I don't think I will.
              www.maestroturbo.org.uk - The Tickford Maestro Turbo Register
              www.rover200.org.uk - The Rover 200/400 (R8) Owners Club
              www.roverdiesel.co.uk - My Rover Diesel Site

              Comment


              • It was made to order 4-5 day turnaround.

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                • My other recent addition, these I'm hoping will really get the handling of my car spot on. I'll fit them next week and get the ride height right by eye, then the following week it will be corner weighted. This much power is amazing but I really want it to be as solid as possible. Because of the front suspension being so great there is no body roll, I just want the back to stay more sturdy cancelling ovesteer and to allow better turn in. I have 300lbs springs on these with 350's on the front. It might be a bit keen but springs aren't hugely expensive. I spoke with Mark who then spoke to Gaz about what I wanted to do and this is what they recommended.

                  Not many items on the maestro shopping list left now...

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                  • mot passed today, needed a bit of welding, sadly living on a farm that gets very muddy is not good for a maestro. Car will need serious welding work this year if it is to carry on. I have decided to get underneath and prepare to underseal it this summer and assess if it is worth carrying on. This may sound harsh but I'm not about to move off a farm anytime soon! If the car can't live here without rotting away then i may well have to find another home for it.

                    Whatever happens I really hope it can live on in the maestro as it is nuts! I spend a lot of time swearing at it's hold over my free time but when it runs right it is like nothing else!

                    The car does need a rear wheel arch, ideally a far side sill, there is also rust in that annoying seam on the a pillars on the drivers side and rust all around the windscreen where the old screen became unbonded and just let the rain in!

                    Clutch is just about bedded in now, so car is back to being it's former self!

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                    • It's one hell of a car. Bodywork on that is worth doing (and doing well) any day of the week.
                      M&MOC Committee Member - Archivist
                      Join the M&MOC | Visit the Club Shop | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)

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                      • Yes you are right, just I begrudge it from time to time. It saps a lot of my free time. I feel I have put a lot of time in over a few years now. It is just a bit gutting to see how much work there is left to do. Especially fairly specialised work that I can't do myself. I'll get a few quotes and see where we go.

                        The clutch can't be far off solid now, I pulled away onto a dual carridgeway tonight, (after chasing an ignition error so I was more listening out for a slight miss through the rev range) 2nd gear was slow but perfect, so I gave it some beans into 3rd and 4th, crazy acceleration! I don't think the old clutch was ever keeping up with the flywheel! I'll try and get a few vids at some point, I need to get a suction window holder and have a play. I've tried with my phone but I need hands free to get the best.

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                        • Finally managed to find a good catch tank. Ive blanked the top one off for now, I've ordered another length of hose to go onto the other end cam cover breather so then no oil will get into the inlet. I've fitted a breather pipe plate onto the old o series oil filler hole behind the turbo which lets the crankcase breathe. After talking to many people the t16 breather setup is pretty poor, especially if running more than standard boost. I recon with the front plate the pressure will be much more evened off.

                          The picture is hiding a wiring birds nest that is getting sorted as we speak. I've just postponed fitting piper 270 cams until next week now as the workshop is full with a casualty jcb today! So a couple of updates to come with some tidy wiring and hopefully cams. I'm hoping this will be successful, I'm trying to convert wasted spark cams to dizzy. I have to get a cam sensor lug in with great precision. It may end in tears! I have boh end cam seal leaking currently so even if that side of things doesn't work I will at least stop an oil leak.

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                          • Wiring tidy! This was necessary as I had reworked the reworked wiring 3 or 4 times due to fault finding, improving the standard of fuse holders, fan control... etc!

                            So all relays in a selaed box, fuse holders in water tight holders. Should be set for the life of the car now. Back to running 100% too as I found a problem with the cam sensor wiring, seems to be pulling much better and giving better mpg too.

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                            • Top work, very neat and tidy. What's the blue thick wire for?
                              M&MOC Committee Member - Archivist
                              Join the M&MOC | Visit the Club Shop | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)

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                              • It is live to the fuel pump. Ideally I'd have rerouted that too, for the sake of it I will get that tucked away.

                                I'd like to take the credit for the tidy wiring but I can't I soldered in the cam sensor plug and 2 new fuse holders and was then confronted with such a mess head hurt! I sent the car off to be done. Cost me a couple of hours labour but things like that I don't mind paying for. It is done properly and is now really secure. Better than I have seen on many rovers, but that isn't saying much sadly!

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