T16 conversion - rover ti

[oskaroo]

Hi,

I am planning to convert a g-reg 2.0i to t16 turbo power. I am looking for a complete donor car, and was wondering if anyone knows of a reason why a 620ti would be a bad choice for a donor. The ti had a chip in key system linked to the immobiliser and i was wondering if this would cause a lot more work than say, an 800 turbo donor. Also, the ti's i've seen have wasted spark ignition, and torsen gearboxes; are these easy to install? All the info i've seen seems to indicate that people use the dizzy cap t-16 engines.

If any one knows what the best option would be, i'd be intersted to know. The ti would be my best bet if it does not cause too many problems.

cheers.

[E_T_V]

Early dizzy T16's are easier to convert as the immobiliser is easier to bypass, but the later ones can also be done if you send the ECU away to have the immobiliser removed.

800 sump is too deep for a maestro so the 600ti is the best option.

To get the speedo working properly you are going to have to strip the gearbox however which many people get scared at.

You can do the job without cutting the subframe but only if you go for an electric waterpump which aren't particularly cheap. The offside engine mount will need fabricating but that isn't too bad from memory. You may want to fabricate a lower front engine mount too which the 600 ti is the only one to use.

[charliecosworth]

i would go with early 220 engine without aircon, this engine also strong later ones used what we call chocolate pistons! they really melt that easy if boost turned up slightly, that's what i have fitted to mine.

[countrydude]

i would go with early 220 engine without aircon, this engine also strong later ones used what we call chocolate pistons! they really melt that easy if boost turned up slightly, that's what i have fitted to mine.

All standard pistons are as weak as each other. AE or Malhe they have different weaknesses but both are as much use as chocolate above standard boost.

[charliecosworth]

I believe the later are the weakest by far

[E_T_V]

No, its just that they fail catastrophically. The early ones still fail, just the engine keeps on running (albeit smokily and with excessive oil consumption)

Early ones break the piston ringlands, the later ones melt the piston crown. Both then require an engine rebuild!

Neither are any good (reliably) above standard boost.

220 engine has a steel sump which is deeper than the 600 so may give issues if the car is lowered a lot. The 220 also has an oil cooler on the back of the engine whereas the ti with the alloy sump doesn't have/need the oil cooler.

[mgt16]

A few incorrect facts here the 220 is the shollowest sump then the 620ti then the 800 but 220 or 620ti is fine.
The 620ti will be ideal for a donor send the ecu off to best if British.
Also if you don't want to cut the front cross member then there are ways around it without buying an electric water pump which would also involve losing pas

[E_T_V]

Are you sure on that. It is a common mod on the 200's is to fit the 600 sump as it is shallower (you also need to swap the oil pickup pipe too as the 200 one is too deep).

The 800 sump is very much deeper.

On the 200 the lowest part is the sump
On the 600 the lowest part is the downpipe/gearbox lower mount.

[E_T_V]

620ti sump




220 sump

[mgt16]

Best take some measurements then! Either way there's f all in it I was led to believe that the thickness if the alloy made it lower to the ground.
Going back to the original question the 620ti engine is fine for a conversion sump and all and if you don't want to cut the front crossmember there are options!

[E_T_V]

Agreed on all that. There isn't a lot of difference in depth.

Best of British can disable the immobiliser for you on the ECU.

[Beaker]

620ti is shallower.

[countrydude]

When we compared them side by side the 220 tin sump was shallower, side by side the difference was that obvious you don't need to even measure! The alloy sump is useful though as it offers some cooling, you'd need to fit a oil cooler to be safe with a tin sump. Also it offers the sump to front crossmember steady mount which is a great additional mount.

[AndyB]

Am following this post with interest as may be embarking on same project as Oskaroo. I already have a 420 coupe which was retrofitted with a 620ti engine, but the engine has some compression issues.
Points to help both of us :
1. If the engine and ecu comes from a complete donor car with imobiliser AND the keyfob is already working, apart from the ecu what is in the donor car's system that would need transferring ? Or can't it be done ?
2. Pistons. If forged is the safest route - what's the limit for the std con rods ? And are the gudgeon pins on forged pistons a workshop job with a press ? What's typically cost of a set of forged pistons ?
3. Mounts. I have a maestro already with an M16 non turbo - front crossmember relief for the pump, but otherwise all std EFi mounts (slight mod to o/s mount at the cam cover). Is a revised mounting system recommended for 200 - 230 T16 turbo power ?)
Hope this also helps Oskaroo - it is his thread !! Andy

[E_T_V]

1. It can be done but its a lot of work. Easier to bypass the whole lot.

2. Standard rods are a lottery. Some bend at 250, some are ok at 350! Piston prices - check the GBE site.

3. If you have the ti sump then adding the extra mount on this end will make things better in my opinion.