T16 conversion - rover ti

[E_T_V]

Has any one managed to run a T16 turbo that doesn't have a 505 ECU or 2 gap flywheel (i.e. a later 4 gap one) without having to use the 5as box to get around the immobilizer circuit?

Ive had a look around Rovertech for a guide to wiring but have found no specific information regarding this side of the conversion; does any one have a good link to a step by step guide, or some good T16 turbo wiring information?

Two ways as already detailed (avon box, or decode the ECU), plus the third of installing the 5AS box.

Most simple is to get it decoded usually.

The 5AS box sends a code to the ECU. If the ECU doesn't receive this code within 1 second of the engine starting then it shuts down.

[oskaroo]

Thanks for the response, i have had the ECU decoded by BOB. The guy there said he wasn't sure if it would run without the 5AS, he said something about running a separate feed from the crank sensor.

[oskaroo]

I'm going to wire the engine loom to a proper 220 engine bay fuse box, and join that to the existing Maestro loom.

Has anyone that has done this got a record of the colours of the wires that they joined together? I have the maestro wiring diagram but not the 220 one, although there are a few bits on the internet, I want to be sure that i connect it all up correctly so that i don't fry the whole lot!

I'm planning on wiring it up this coming weekend, so if any one has any good information that might help, I'd be grateful.

cheers

[E_T_V]

Is it a distributor engine or a coil pack one?

[charliecosworth]

i have spare ECU if you want it, but it's for 2 gap flywheel with distributor, was on my maestro before changing mine to emerald.

[oskaroo]

The engine has the dizzy cap on the end of the cam. Its not a wasted spark engine although the coil is not cylindrical; it is square.

Charliecosworth, thanks for the offer, i think mine is a 4 gap flywheel - i dont want to take the box off at the moment - shame mines not the earlier type like yours was, they are slightly less problematic.

[oskaroo]

t16 turbo won't start - immobaliser ?

hi,


i managed to finally get the car wired up today.

Ive joined the engine loom through a 220 turbo engine bay fuse box to the maestro loom.

At first the engine would do nothing when the key was turned to position 3. I then earthed the black and white wire (normally this runs from 220 fusebox to 220 anti theft box) and the engine cranked, although it was slow and only for a second or 2 at a time.

I have had the ECU decoded by B.O.B but i'm not sure what has actually been done to it, their web shop states:

"We can also remove all security information from the ECU and allow it to run on any vehicle without the worry of having the secondary immobiliser cutting in. Please note: We accept no liability for use of this service and you will still need the fob to remove the primary stage immobiliser before the vehicle will start".

Does any one know where i am going wrong please?

I was under the impression that having the ECU decoded meant that it could be made to function without any other security devices being fitted; general consensus seems to be that if you get your ECU decoded it should work on its own.

The ECU number is MKC101960.

many thanks.

[E_T_V]

Is it the right ECU for the wiring/flywheel/injectors?

The standard T16 security works in 2 ways. It looks for a code from the alarm box. If it doesn't receive it the ECU shuts down after 1 second after the engine starts. It also inhibits the starter motor power signal.

Do you have a spark on cranking?

[E_T_V]

Oh and randomly which startermotor are you using? There are some which are not compatible and jam when trying to crank (guess how I found that one out!)

[oskaroo]

the flywheel, injectors ecu etc all came from the same donor car which was running well before i sadly stole its running gear.

I haven't checked for a spark yet - i think the ECU is immobilized and waiting for a signal from the anti theft box (5as).

The car i took all the parts from did the same thing if you disconnected the battery and then didn't enter the security code through the door lock - i never had the radio fob.

just not sure about this decoding business, i had hoped that the ecu would run on its own with this having been done - i suppose it could be that the code it is waiting for has just been wiped so you can wire it to another car, whose 5as will then link to the ECU.

i have the 5as/ security box off the donor car but it looks like a pain to wire in -presumably you need to wire in all the door locks sensors, etc...

[oskaroo]

the starter is the 220 turbo one that was working when it was on the donor car...

cheers; hope you have some ideas.

[countrydude]

If you have an immobilised edu from best of brittish it won't need the 5as box, so you can bin that

[oskaroo]

Ive just hot wired the starter and the engine turns over nicely, so its not the starter at fault.

I had a look inside the MEMS ECU and it looks like a pin has been cut which seems to be part of the process to disarm the immobilizer.

Re-checked all of my connections and still the car does not crank or start when ignition is turned to position 3. Ive had a muliti-meter on it and am getting 12 volts at the ignition sense at position 2.

Ive also slaved in a fresh wire from the ignition switch position 3 with no effect.

I think that the engine ECU is still waiting for the signal from the 5AS box - perhaps it has not been fully immobilized?

I tried to phone the guy at B.O.B. but he wasn't there.

Has any one got any ideas please?

cheers

[E_T_V]

The pin is cut to prevent the 5AS sending a code to the ECU and it accepting it. That is normal and ok.

The ECU only has one security function and that is to shut down if the 5AS doesn't receive a code within 1 second of the engine starting. You aren't even getting this far so it is not the ECU at fault. The crank signal doesn't come from the ECU.

Did the original car have a 5AS unit or is it a 14VT?

It is a wiring issue from the symptoms you describe.

[ian drew]

I can't remember the full details of when I wired my T16 up, but I didn't wire the starter via the ECU, I kept the Maestro starting setup, which is just a relay, solenoid and the starter. The ECU doesn't have to handle the starting, just like when a car is push started, the ECU doesn't have to be part of the system.

I hope that may help a little.

Ian