T16 conversion - rover ti

[Guest]

You can also use the O series water pump and not cut the front cross member both alloy Ti sump and 220 can be used with out the oil cooler well I have used both with out one!!

[countrydude]

yes, you can use the tin sump of course. But if you are going to give it some rage I'd fit the oil cooler too. As it was a standard fitment with the tin sump the oil must overheat without it. The alloy sump is a good heatsoak as we know.

[ian drew]

Where are you based Oskaroo? It may be near someone who already has done the conversion, can't beat looking at one in the flesh over a brew.

Ian (hoping to MOT my T16 next week)

[oskaroo]

Many thanks for all the information. I just missed out on a ti just down the road; it was going cheap too. I'm going to look at a 220 turbo soon, but if its in good nick it would be a shame to break for the engine - i don't think there are many left of either machine. They have probably all been broken for their drive trains.

All this considered it makes you wonder if its worth swapping engines around or just drive the car that has the engine in it all ready!

[AndyB]

Now that's the difficult one Oskaroo - if the donor car's that good why not drive that ? It might be more refined, aircon etc. The ideal car is one that you know had a great engine and got shunted (not too hard) and you get all the looms, useful bits etc.

But that's v rare.

I got a 220 coupe for the engine etc. But it works, looks quite good and MOTd. So why bother ?

Cos it aint a Maestro ! (and my son kept hitting his head on the ceiling in the back of the coupe so he hates it !)

Also - you create something different and it keeps the grey cells occupied.

Keep looking !

[ian drew]

Well, replaced the turbo on my Maestro T16..... and it still smokes. I'm assuming piston rings. Either way, I need to let the car go. So, it is available as a fully working T16 converted maestro (but smokes too much for an MOT) or it will be broken and all T16 related parts will be available. I'll start a thread in a moment.

Ian

[oskaroo]

conversion...

I started the conversion this week... I bought a nice 220 turbo coop about a year ago which i have driven around a bit; its a really nice car with a near mint shell which seemed a shame to break up. I tried to sell it as a complete car, but surprisingly the only people who showed any interest appeared to be boy racers asking questions about boost levels etc. It didnt sell in the end so im going to put the running gear into the Maestro 2.0i.

I pulled the engine and gearbox out of the Maestro the other day and i have a few questions about the conversion.

1- will i be able to use the 220 LSD gearbox? will the Maestro 2.0i driveshafts fit OK?

2- id like to use the Maestro water pump that was mentioned - does any one know which one is best to use (off which model/year ) part number for this?

3- does anyone know where i can get all the immobiliser stuff ripped off the ECU?

many thanks , ill try and get some pics up later.

[charliecosworth]

you can use the 220 gearbox straight swap, drive shafts will fit no problem, just check the seals on gearbox Maestro drive shafts use old style, rover 220 might use the metal type.

there guy on rovertec.com who can remove immobiliser some of early 220 didn't have one fitted might be worth checking

[E_T_V]

1. Yes. Change the oil seals for the earlier rubber type (care is needed fitting them too - don't push them too far in).

2. Not sure on this. Most people end up chopping the front cross member to get the engine into the bay as-is.

3. Best of British can remove the immobiliser if required - some ECU's don't need decoding. What are the last 3 numbers on the ECU part number?

[oskaroo]

wires

I am planning to use the 220 engine bay relay/fuse box so i can just plug the engine loom/ecu into this.

Im planning on using the 220 loom that goes to the 220 engine fuse box and joining the former to the maestro loom.

;Does anyone know anyone that has done this or what wire joins what, ive looked at the diagrams and have a fair idea, but dont want to jump in and fry the whole lot!

[ian drew]

The wires that you will need to connect to are:
2 Reverse gear sensor wires
Temperature sensor
Rev counter
LIVES (maybe a few of these)
Ignition Live
Permanent Live
Fuel Pump
Starter (may not be in the loom)

It think that's about all you need to connect from the engine loom to the Maestro loom. How complicated this is depends on where the ECU is connected. On the dizzy engines I think it's connected in to the engine loom so fairly simple. If it's the wasted spark then I think it gets a bit more complicated as the immobiliser is involved.

Ian

[countrydude]

Lifted from talking cars.me.uk

Maestro Lucas main loom to Vitesse mems engine loom

single square plug on maestro.

maestro body loom - vitesse engine loom - function

white/black - white/black - oil pressure switch

pink/green - green blue - temp gauge
(you will need to join the green/blue and pink/green by the ECU
in the maestro footwell as well to get the gauge to work)

Brown/yellow - yellow - alternator warning light

brown/green - brown/green - reverse lights
green - green/orange - reverse lights

thick white/green - purple/white - fuel pump

white/black - white black - rev counter

light green - white - ignition live

white is connected to blue/green and should go to vitty inertia switch
and brown/pink should go to permanent live


brown/red - brown/red - starter relay

black - black/all trace colours - earth

you do not need the following from either side of the maestro square plug
orange/green
orange/black
orange/pink
orange/red
orange/yellow
pink/light blue
pink/black
white/yellow
pink/purple
green/yellow

[countrydude]

That is the info we used to get mine going. You just need to be sure to feed live and connect all the relays up to earths too

[oskaroo]

engine mount

I tried to fit the t16 today, it seems i failed to read the previous posts about the drivers side engine mount!

The mount fouls the cambelt - i had trimmed the upper cover down but had assumed this would be enough.

Ive seen some pictures of these efi type mounts that don't look cut down but have a smaller front section - are these cut and welded or are they off a different car?

[oskaroo]

many thanks for the replies about the wiring, its the only part that i'm not totally sure about.