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Black Efi resurrection
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Here John, this is why we are gurus lol, you'll need these pipes and breather. The blue pipe was the last one Wright's of Lincoln had at the time. If you don't have any you can have these and from memory a good sump unless you want the free engine aswell as I don't need it and it's probably seized by now but maybe of use to you. Your engine is definitely from 1989 onwards to the end of productionLast edited by Jeff Turbo; 2nd April 2024, 14:21.
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Well they aren't turbo pistons and the oil return does have a different angle. I think I have a late Montego EFi engine somewhere in my spares, I will have a look and see what that looks like for you.Originally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post
Yes, quite odd, it has one on the front too, bolted to the sump & the one on the back has a tube inside the crankcase next to the oil pickup pipe...it had me staring at the parts list for a while, 'cos I couldn't think of a good reason for having both....
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Yes, quite odd, it has one on the front too, bolted to the sump & the one on the back has a tube inside the crankcase next to the oil pickup pipe...it had me staring at the parts list for a while, 'cos I couldn't think of a good reason for having both....Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
Ah got it now, late models moved the breather to the rear so that maybe why I can see the pipe at the rear
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Ah got it now, late models moved the breather to the rear so that maybe why I can see the pipe at the rearOriginally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post
Yes, I think the oil pump innards are most likely ok (unless engine has been rebuilt in the past & old pump reused), but it'll be easier to fit a new one than clean the old one up. Engine is a fairly late model Efi as far as I can tell, but no engine number, so not easy to date with any degree of certainty...
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Yes, I think the oil pump innards are most likely ok (unless engine has been rebuilt in the past & old pump reused), but it'll be easier to fit a new one than clean the old one up. Engine is a fairly late model Efi as far as I can tell, but no engine number, so not easy to date with any degree of certainty...Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostThat looks much better, are you also changing the oil pump as that looks like it needs changing? That a turbo engine John with the oil return at the rear?
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That looks much better, are you also changing the oil pump as that looks like it needs changing? That a turbo engine John with the oil return at the rear?
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Made a bit of progress dismantling engine, the induction heater came in very handy for getting the cam drive sprocket off, it seemed to have been loctited & came off very easily once heated past 300 centigrade. Piston-bore clearance seems to be at the tight end of the tolerances, ring gaps pretty much in the middle, so didn't really need to be dismantled. There seems to be a fair bit of sludge in the waterways though, a good clean out will do no harm. A good look beats a good guess anyway!
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Thought I'd get the front doors pained, couldn't decide whether to rub down the bits that showed signs of surface rust & leave the rest, or take it all back to bare metal. Lucky that I chose the second option, it involved a lot of hard work, but revealed that there was a lot more surface rust that there looked to be at first. Having removed the paint I decided to try a coat of 'rust-anode' cold galvanising, in theory it should protect against rust better than 'ordinary' paint, and should be easy enough to put ordinary paint over it. I'll know how easy it is to paint over very soon, but won't know how rustproof it is for a few years!
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Giving the sunroof a quick clean up & check over didn't go according to plan...think I've made one working one out of three with various faults! Amazing how much surface rust was inside the new old stock door, especially under the anti-drumming pads, hopefully "Rust Anode" will do what it says on the tin & make the door last for ever (or thereabouts)..
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Yes, I was quite surprised that the limescale remover was the only thing that shifted the deposits from the brake fluid, but will know what to use next time. It worked in seconds & doesn't seem to have harmed the plastic, definitely need gloves on though!Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostCame up ok that didn't it
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A bit more progress, sound insulation fitted (came from a diesel, as petrol cars didn't have it under the bonnet), brake servo fitted, reservoirs cleaned & fitted, brakes filled with silicon brake fluid and preliminary bleeding done. Cleaning the brake fluid reservoir was a bit of a learning curve, normal brake fluid being alcohol based I tried a variety of aqueous solvents, only thing that worked was domestos zero limescale remover, it was very efficient & washed off easily with clean water. Drying the water out took a while, a hair dryer on low heat setting did the job though.
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