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Black Efi resurrection

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Here John, this is why we are gurus lol, you'll need these pipes and breather. The blue pipe was the last one Wright's of Lincoln had at the time. If you don't have any you can have these and from memory a good sump unless you want the free engine aswell as I don't need it and it's probably seized by now but maybe of use to you. Your engine is definitely from 1989 onwards to the end of production
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    Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 2nd April 2024, 14:21.

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Originally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post

    Yes, quite odd, it has one on the front too, bolted to the sump & the one on the back has a tube inside the crankcase next to the oil pickup pipe...it had me staring at the parts list for a while, 'cos I couldn't think of a good reason for having both....
    Well they aren't turbo pistons and the oil return does have a different angle. I think I have a late Montego EFi engine somewhere in my spares, I will have a look and see what that looks like for you.

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post

    Ah got it now, late models moved the breather to the rear so that maybe why I can see the pipe at the rear
    Yes, quite odd, it has one on the front too, bolted to the sump & the one on the back has a tube inside the crankcase next to the oil pickup pipe...it had me staring at the parts list for a while, 'cos I couldn't think of a good reason for having both....

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Originally posted by Doctordiesel77 View Post

    Yes, I think the oil pump innards are most likely ok (unless engine has been rebuilt in the past & old pump reused), but it'll be easier to fit a new one than clean the old one up. Engine is a fairly late model Efi as far as I can tell, but no engine number, so not easy to date with any degree of certainty...
    Ah got it now, late models moved the breather to the rear so that maybe why I can see the pipe at the rear

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
    That looks much better, are you also changing the oil pump as that looks like it needs changing? That a turbo engine John with the oil return at the rear?
    Yes, I think the oil pump innards are most likely ok (unless engine has been rebuilt in the past & old pump reused), but it'll be easier to fit a new one than clean the old one up. Engine is a fairly late model Efi as far as I can tell, but no engine number, so not easy to date with any degree of certainty...

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    That looks much better, are you also changing the oil pump as that looks like it needs changing? That a turbo engine John with the oil return at the rear?

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Block cleaned up, painted & sludge hosed out of the water jacket, I wrapped big end journals with denso tape before turning the hose on it.
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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Made a bit of progress dismantling engine, the induction heater came in very handy for getting the cam drive sprocket off, it seemed to have been loctited & came off very easily once heated past 300 centigrade. Piston-bore clearance seems to be at the tight end of the tolerances, ring gaps pretty much in the middle, so didn't really need to be dismantled. There seems to be a fair bit of sludge in the waterways though, a good clean out will do no harm. A good look beats a good guess anyway!
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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Coming on a treat Dr D

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Thought I'd get the front doors pained, couldn't decide whether to rub down the bits that showed signs of surface rust & leave the rest, or take it all back to bare metal. Lucky that I chose the second option, it involved a lot of hard work, but revealed that there was a lot more surface rust that there looked to be at first. Having removed the paint I decided to try a coat of 'rust-anode' cold galvanising, in theory it should protect against rust better than 'ordinary' paint, and should be easy enough to put ordinary paint over it. I'll know how easy it is to paint over very soon, but won't know how rustproof it is for a few years!
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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Giving the sunroof a quick clean up & check over didn't go according to plan...think I've made one working one out of three with various faults! Amazing how much surface rust was inside the new old stock door, especially under the anti-drumming pads, hopefully "Rust Anode" will do what it says on the tin & make the door last for ever (or thereabouts)..
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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
    Came up ok that didn't it
    Yes, I was quite surprised that the limescale remover was the only thing that shifted the deposits from the brake fluid, but will know what to use next time. It worked in seconds & doesn't seem to have harmed the plastic, definitely need gloves on though!

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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Came up ok that didn't it

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  • Doctordiesel77
    replied
    A bit more progress, sound insulation fitted (came from a diesel, as petrol cars didn't have it under the bonnet), brake servo fitted, reservoirs cleaned & fitted, brakes filled with silicon brake fluid and preliminary bleeding done. Cleaning the brake fluid reservoir was a bit of a learning curve, normal brake fluid being alcohol based I tried a variety of aqueous solvents, only thing that worked was domestos zero limescale remover, it was very efficient & washed off easily with clean water. Drying the water out took a while, a hair dryer on low heat setting did the job though.
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  • Jeff Turbo
    replied
    Very good, getting there slowly


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