Black Efi resurrection

[Doctordiesel77]

A bit more progress, refurbished calipers fitted, so it should stop ok, just need to make it go now.....

[Jeff Turbo]

I'd like to think so...it was the rubber hose joining it to the tank that I'm wondering about, it contains petrol for most of the time & is a shaped piece of pipe, so not an off the shelf straight length like the van. I'll find out later & I guess worst case make a flattened metal joiner & use two short bits of new hose at least it won't dribble petrol over the exhaust from there!

Nar should be ok as it's not continuously in petrol, only when filling and vapours

[Doctordiesel77]

It'll take ages to rust the fuel filler pipe after you've painted it. Will last you out lol

I'd like to think so...it was the rubber hose joining it to the tank that I'm wondering about, it contains petrol for most of the time & is a shaped piece of pipe, so not an off the shelf straight length like the van. I'll find out later & I guess worst case make a flattened metal joiner & use two short bits of new hose at least it won't dribble petrol over the exhaust from there!

[Jeff Turbo]

Yes, my theory is that the smaller the area of rubber that is exposed to ethanol laced petrol (even though the new rubber claims to be ethanol 'resistant'), the less chance there is of a porous pipe. Doubling up on the number of connections is a downside, but will see what happens. The filler pipe will be the biggest likely problem I guess. Hopefully it will go the way I hope & if it is a disaster, at least all the bolts will be easy to get out as they are greased up to the eyeballs

It'll take ages to rust the fuel filler pipe after you've painted it. Will last you out lol

[Doctordiesel77]

You're going for solid pipes around the tank rather than normal fuel pipe John?

Yes, my theory is that the smaller the area of rubber that is exposed to ethanol laced petrol (even though the new rubber claims to be ethanol 'resistant'), the less chance there is of a porous pipe. Doubling up on the number of connections is a downside, but will see what happens. The filler pipe will be the biggest likely problem I guess. Hopefully it will go the way I hope & if it is a disaster, at least all the bolts will be easy to get out as they are greased up to the eyeballs

[Jeff Turbo]

You're going for solid pipes around the tank rather than normal fuel pipe John?

[Doctordiesel77]

Got a bit more done, fuel tank and brake cable are a doddle to fit when the car is upside down on the jig. It is starting to get a bit heavy now, so gave the underside and box sections a good coating of waxoyl & left it upside down. My theory is that it should soak into the crevices that it'd be running out of if done the right way up...time will tell! I was glad I'd gone over the top with the ppe, the air fed mask is more for two pack than for waxoyl, but it did save me from waxoyling myself..

[Doctordiesel77]

Coming on slowly John, but getting there. I see you're poly bushing everything and nice job of the brake pipes

Yes, only a few years behind schedule , slowly beats not moving at all! I thought polybushes might save ever having to do it again, time will tell though... I got a useful thing for straightening copper brke pipes at the NEC last year, it is surprising what a difference it makes, wasn't particularly cheap even with the 'show discount', but does a good job of getting rid of all the little kinks & makes the pipe look like it belongs there..https://www.kwixuk.com/ make them, a relatively local product!

[Jeff Turbo]

Coming on slowly John, but getting there. I see you're poly bushing everything and nice job of the brake pipes

[Doctordiesel77]

A few more small but time consuming jobs done. Had to break into a second roll of brake pipe due to wasting a bit having made the 'schoolboy error' of fitting a small nut to the passenger side front line, rather than a big one...oops! Next holdup is that my two spare front hoses turned out to be one spare hose...identical boxes, correct numbers on boxes, correct pipe in one box, incorrect in the other..about 10 years too late to take it back & complain though.

[Doctordiesel77]

My theory that I'd have some time to get more done fell to bits fairly early on, but finally got time to start attaching a few parts to the bodyshell. The downside of posting on here is that I can see just how long it is sine I had a full weekend off .Quite easy to work on it in the jig, but it is starting to get a bit out of balance now! Polybushes were surprisingly easy to fit and should last well (so it says on the box anyway!)

[Doctordiesel77]

Excellent progress, nicely done and dare I say, very old school, as they say lol

I can't see these new fangled modern ways catching on

[Jeff Turbo]

Excellent progress, nicely done and dare I say, very old school, as they say lol

[Doctordiesel77]

Getting the inner race that pops out of the bearing & stays on the hub off can be a bit of challenge, even though it isn't normally super tight. Gas axe or 1mm blade are often used in garages, but can leave damage on the hub. I wedged thm off about 1/8" with a hammer and chisel, then used this very handy little motor bearing puller, which made the job easy & probably quicker than getting the 'big boys' toys out! Bearings can be hard to refit, hammering or pressing can both damage them. My method was to put bearings in freezer for an hour and spindle in rayburn for a short time (too hot and it can melt grease out of bearings). You need to be careful getting the hot spindle to the vice, but then the bearing just presses in by hand, a bit of grease is a good idea, if it gets stuck halfway, you are back to press/hammer! Once the bearings are in I always ease the two inner races apart and shove as much grease as I can into the gap. Some will squeeze out when refitting the hub, hopefully some gets to the bearings.

[Doctordiesel77]

Got a bit more done, front wheel bearings seemed ok, but thought I'd change them anyway, the old fashioned impact screwdriver is invaluable for taking disc securing screws out and10 ton puller is useful for the hub and bearings, if it had failed then I'd have taken them to a press, but it did the job, so saved a couple of quid in fuel. Good job I did change them as,a) they are the ball race type and b) one ball was pitted, so they'd do what ball race ones were discontinued for, which was droning/rumbling.