Glad to see you've sorted it Pete.
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Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostGlad to see you've sorted it Pete.
Thought I would give it a test this morning. Started engine, released clutch, engaged 1st gear, engaged clutch - bite point very low down on pedal - moved forward 1 foot, then stopped. Repeated process and I'm back to no drive again!!!!!! Tried operating clutch pedal a number of times to ensure adjustment was OK, then repeated process trying all forward gears. Noise from gerabox seemed to get louder with each increase in gear number. Noise goes when clutch pedal depressed. Got out and checked under car to find three pools of fluid on the floor. One looked like petrol from spill return pipe area, one gearbox oil and no idea about the other - more in the centre of the car behind the engine. No visible source for any of them at the moment !!
Edit:: Later checks appears to point to the selector shaft oil seal providing one of the leaks. Going to be a **!* if it is. Also (thinking aloud) just wondering if the selector rod is being moved the full amount by the gear lever, and when I think its in gear, its really still in neutral....?
Now on the verge of giving up on this car, or desperately in need of some assistance coupled with better facilities than a domestic garage.Last edited by Sussex Pete; 29th August 2017, 13:18.Membership Secretary
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1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car
You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't
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Did you replace the seals when it was out the first time? if leaking engine oil from the rear centre have a look at the turbo oil feed as that can come loose or you may have not tightened enough. If the bite is low then adjust the cable to suit, if you think it's not in gear and had too much play have a look at the bush under the gear lever1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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http://maestro.org.uk/forums/forum/t...arbox-oil-leak this may help. I've never had to change the seal but Gary has. So with luck he maybe here soon to advise. I have to assume though it's just prise the old one out, clean around the opening and put a new one in. You should be able to do that without removing the gearbox againLast edited by Jeff Turbo; 29th August 2017, 14:24.1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostDid you replace the seals when it was out the first time? if leaking engine oil from the rear centre have a look at the turbo oil feed as that can come loose or you may have not tightened enough. If the bite is low then adjust the cable to suit, if you think it's not in gear and had too much play have a look at the bush under the gear leverMembership Secretary
Join the M&MOC | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)
1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car
You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't
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The fact that your noise varies according to which gear you're in implies that the problem is in the output end, like jumping out splines on driveshafts or something in the diff, if it was gears not fully engaging, it would be a similar noise each time, as you are engaging gears with input shaft...hard to tell from this range of course, but that would be my guess..I have seen driveshafts come out of engagement after several thousand miles and for no apparent reason, I guess a petrol turbo will be more capable of such tricks than the diesels that did it to me...one of them saved my sister a few quid in diesel as RAC towed her back, I then biffed the shaft in and off she went...tow sheet had transmission failure as cause of breakdown.. Some modern VWs chew the splines up on driveshaft end and diff end, might be worth checking them again, not that I've heard of it happening to a Maestro or Montego before.. good luck
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Nearside outer CV has gone! That was probably the clunk I heard as it drove forward, not the box coming out of gear.Membership Secretary
Join the M&MOC | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)
1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car
You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't
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What do you mean by 'gone' Pete.? If you need a new one check first before buying http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Montego...UAAOSwo4pYdEyj1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View PostWhat do you mean by 'gone' Pete.? If you need a new one check first before buying http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Montego...UAAOSwo4pYdEyj
Thanks for the link. According to the EPC, the joint is the same for the 2.0i and the Turbo. Is that not so, as I found one at: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DL4620-AUS...53.m1438.l2649Membership Secretary
Join the M&MOC | Printable Club Flyer (PDF)
1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car
You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't
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Originally posted by Sussex Pete View Post
By gone, at least one of the balls is no longer either present or in place. Got a lot of lateral movement in the shaft, inside the outer CV boot. Turning the R/H disc, only turns the LH drive shaft, disc is static.
Thanks for the link. According to the EPC, the joint is the same for the 2.0i and the Turbo. Is that not so, as I found one at: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DL4620-AUS...53.m1438.l2649Last edited by Jeff Turbo; 30th August 2017, 15:34.1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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Originally posted by Jeff Turbo View Post
Pete, you need to look harder at your epc, put your glasses on. That's no good for a turbo. 1.6 and 2,0 carb is the link you put up. You need GCV1034. Turbo and 2.0 injection MGMembership Secretary
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1990 MG Maestro Turbo #436 (To keep me occupied in retirement)
2023 Hyundai Tucson Ultimate Hybrid(Daily run-around)
1974 Austin Allegro Semi-works Rally Car
You know you are getting old when your knees buckle and your belt doesn't
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Originally posted by Sussex Pete View Post
It was the text on the link I was looking at (with my glasses lol). The final bit "and Montego 1.6 and 2.0 inc. EFi." is what I went by. I knew the part number is GCV1034 but that didn't come back with anything on google, so was searching by Montego CV joint. Interestingly that didn't pick yours out, so maybe Google here in the South East is not as good as in East Anglia1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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Originally posted by G4GLM View PostI didn't know you had broadband in Lincolnshire let alone google! You certainly don't have a mobile signal!!1958 Ford Consul Convertible. I love this car
1965 Ford Zodiac Executive. Fab cruiser being restored
1997 Jaguar Xk8 Convertible. Such a fab car
2003 MGZT V8. BRG and new project
2004 MGZT cdti. Great workhorse
2004 MGZT V8. Black I love this car
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